This afternoon I got on the road. Right away I knew that something's wrong. Since I am an (shrinks down in chair) automatic the shifting is really delayed. When I try to accelerate really hard, around 5k is when it goes into second, but there's no power at all whatsoever. I'm gradually accelerating, but the RPM's are higher. My fuel pressure was no higher than 45 or down to around 40 at all times, which I know is a problem. My boost at 30 mph is 0, and my EGT's got up to 1300 at around maybe 45 mph. Also I know the A/F gauge is more of just a blinky gauge, but mine seemed to be playing ping pong while I was driving, literally going rich-lean-rich-lean constantly. Is this correct behavior for the A/F gauge to work like this? I was hoping the A/F gauge would somewhat aid me in adjusting my fuel, but hell, the only time it's somewhat stationary is when I first start the car.

I've got no CEL's. The Accel pump is actually quieter than what I was expecting. The car idles great, like I don't even have the turbo on it. I know I've been asking a lot of questions lately on the install. But I really want to be able to understand more of the workings on my engine, which just by installing the kit I've learned a ton. I just want to be able to actually tune the engine myself. Like what does the bleeder valve do on the FPR. Hahn's instructions just state that you should tighten it down & then open it up 2 full turns for a good start. Start for what? What does the valve do? I've looked through almost every post for "fuel pressure" & nothing seems to parallel my situation, at least from what I can tell.

Anyhow, to sum up my entire post, based on the car's sluggishness yet high RPM's & gauges... what should I look at first?

Thanks for your time.

Closed loop vs. Open loop modes. If the car is still in closed loop (cruising around) then your A/F gauge is going to be going from lean to rich. WOT and open loop mode will peg the guage at rich (should rather).

Originally posted by HeDog
But I really want to be able to understand more of the workings on my engine, which just by installing the kit I've learned a ton. I just want to be able to actually tune the engine myself. Like what does the bleeder valve do on the FPR. Hahn's instructions just state that you should tighten it down & then open it up 2 full turns for a good start. Start for what? What does the valve do? I've looked through almost every post for "fuel pressure" & nothing seems to parallel my situation, at least from what I can tell. Anyhow, to sum up my entire post, based on the car's sluggishness yet high RPM's & gauges... what should I look at first? Thanks for your time.

The bleed valve in the Cartech FPR adjusts the rise rate of fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure. By opening up the valve more you are releasing pressure from the FPR. The more pressure retained in the FPR the more the the opening to the return line is closed and the higher your fuel pressure will be. So basicly, if the more the bleed valve is closed, the higher the rise rate will be. As you open the bleed valve the rising rate of fuel pressure will drop. If you FP is not getting past 40psi during boost you have a problem. Once you FP starts rising like it should, troubleshoot any remaining problems.

Also, when describing power attributes it's better to use RPM (and mention the gear you're in) instead of MPH.

Thanks for the reply! Right now I've got the valve open at least 3 full turns, so I'm probably losing a lot of pressure through there. As far as my boost, I have none. At least that I can maintain. It spikes as I accelerate but then I lose it as soon as I generate it, then I'm back at 0 to +2 boost while driving. I'll shut down that valve more & see if it makes a difference.

Technically, from what you're saying, it should both increase the fuel pressure and boost levels right?

THE HANH KIT USE I THINK A 6:1 FPR WHICH MEANS FOR EVERY 1 PSI OF BOOST IT WILL RAISE FUEL PRESSURE 6 PSI. THE BLEEDER VALVE CAN BLEED SOME OF THAT OFF SO YOU CAN LEAN IT OUT UNDER BOOST. AS FOR NOT BOOSTING IT SOUNDS LIKE A WASTE GATE PROBLEM. CHECK YOUR ACUATOR FIRST. BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE IT MAY BE WORKING SOMEWHAT SINCE YOU DO SPIKE AT FIRST. MAY BE SOMETHING MORE SERIOUS. HOPE THAT HELPS.

You know what, you need to give us some more info to help you.

What injectors are you running? If stock your FP @idle should be @50psi, at 0 vac should be about 60psi this would be for the stock 5-6psi hahn actuator. At least that is what I used to run on my old beige regulator when I was still @5-6psi.

fyi your vacum levels at idle should be about -16-18 or even higher. If you pull off a vacum hose and have a leak your vacum level will most likely be about -10.

For the no boost problem, build a leak testor. It is most likely that you have a pipe leaking, hose clamp not holding etc etc.

I'm going to build a leak tester this weekend so I can check for leaks. I know I've got 'em because most of the time at idle I'm at -8 to -10 boost. I remover the vacuum hose for the BOV and the pressure stayed the same, -10. What I can't figure out though is that the car still idles fine. All my other vehicles I've ever had would idle like crap when there was a vacuum leak.

Also, how do I check my actuator to see if it's working properly? If I've got vacuum leaks it wouldn't be working properly would it?

i have always had -10- or -11 vac, tho i do have crower stage 1's
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Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
i have always had -10- or -11 vac, tho i do have crower stage 1's

and total seals

Total seal rings would have absolutely NOTHING to do with low vac.

:shrug
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