Car has been acting weird lately. Sometime when I hit 13psi+ in 3rd gear and above, I can hear my bov whistling and my car would start shaking. The steering wheel would start shaking and it seems like I"m losing traction, but I'm not. I would be on the highway already doing 80mph most of the time when this happens. I'm not even sure if the bov whistling is directly connected to the car shaking. But it shakes pretty bad, like the axles are about to go.

Originally posted by DSMRoadster
The steering wheel would start shaking and it seems like I"m losing traction, but I'm not. I would be on the highway already

Clutch gone bad? :shrug

after more thorough observation I notice when I hit 15psi, it feels like the car went into neutral or something. I can hear the engine going and see the boost hit 15psi, but the car feels like it doesn't want to move anymore. Sounds like when you rev the engine in neutral.

Yeah, sounds like the clutch

goddamit, the clutch is about 2 years old and it's a CM4. Well time to find a neon tranny and get another CM4.

ok, I just want to make sure the tranny is not the bandit. That "neutral" feeling at 15psi only happens from 3-5th gears. 1st and 2nd grabs fine. Clutch or tranny?

clutch

Well I did a couple of "tests". I did a 2nd to 5th gear shift and it takes the car awhile to actually reached the desired powerband. Then I did and uphill pull on 4th gear and car almost shuts off because the rpm was too low. Conclusion, in either case from 3rd-5th gear when it hits about 5psi, no longer 10-15psi now, the fucken revs go up, the boost goes up, but car feels like it's in neutral. I would actually have to keep on the gas until it actually feels like the clutch is grabbing. So for the clutch/tranny experts since I'm not convinced it's the clutch(having it be a CM4 with less than 10k miles on it, what are the other possibilities? I searche the archives and found a couple of other guys with thise problem. One guy replaced the main seal and it went away. Another dude replaced the rubber hose line going from master cylinder to slave cylinder and the problem went away. I'm still confused.

Well, get a braided SS clutch line and pull the restrictor. The SS line takes the place of the hard line and the rubber line, and the restrictor adds slippage while the clutch is allowed to engage. If nothing else it could cut clutch wear. If this doesn't help, then you need some clutch parts. Mmmmkay?

Well i noticed 3-5th was slipping bad and not grabbing at all. This all happened in one day today. 1-2nd was fine until I got on the highway. It got so bad on the main rd, that I need to redline (at any gear) in order to get my car moving. Even when it does move, it hardly grabs. It got even worse when i started overheating and leaked coolant everywhere from the overflow tank. This CM4 has about 12k miles on it or less.

I've been searching and reading on some of the swaps some of you guys do to save money. Somewhere along the line though, my brain went dead and I couldn't comprehend how you guys were doing this. So Matt(ExtremeRS), if you're out there can you elighten me on what to do instead of forking out another 785 bucks for CM4. This time I need a clutch that would last more than 12k miles.

Check with South Bend Clutch. Good group of people and good products.

I just might go with sachs or luks, they're both only 260 and 170 bucks. If those other "high performance" clutch only lasts a year long, I might as well put another stock one in since it'll last just as long.

I duno man, i did the same thing...It wont hold up to your power...it will just start slipping...Once u hit the gas, it will start to slip up about 1500 rpm....I just bought a spec3 so it can handle the power levels...and a CM 4 should take what you throw at it for sure...IMO, its somthing else.... If its not, somthing had to gone wrong, to make the clutch go out this early
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I've been reading the archives for the last two hours and learn quite a bit more. I can put my car into gear and it won't move or stall, so now I'm not sure if it's the clutch. There has been quite a bit of rattling at certain rpm level, usualy 3-5k.

I have a CM STG 4 with probably less than 5K on it that is doing the same thing... On higher PSI pulls, it will break loose and free-rev like in neutral, then catch back down.. and yes, it shudders.. heh.. Actually, the previous owner put a senseless force dual-friction in there RIGHT when i bought the car, I did the break in on it actually... Well, a few thousand miles later it started doing this SAME thing, so I gave the clutch away to a board memeber, haha, and got the CM STG 4 because I thought the clutch was toast. (board memeber got a new clutch for free, lmao)

I found some oil in the bellhousing after realizing(or hoping) its not the clutches going out, so I figured the rear main seal was leaking oil onto the clutch and making it slip. Matter of fact, I just got done putting the tranny back in this morning.. I put a new rear main seal in, the OEM one did NOT have a spring around the seal to hold it to the shaft, the new NAPA one does... there was some oil around the rear main, but the clutch was pretty dry :shrug

I am HOPING that will fix the problem.. I can't start the motor yet till Bill's fucking fuel system is released because I am kinda committed to that now that I sold the DFI.

Edit: Hope something of my experience helps you somewhat..

Originally posted by Super20G
I have a CM STG 4 with probably less than 5K on it that is doing the same thing... On higher PSI pulls, it will break loose and free-rev like in neutral, then catch back down.. and yes, it shudders.. heh.. Actually, the previous owner put a senseless force dual-friction in there RIGHT when i bought the car, I did the break in on it actually... Well, a few thousand miles later it started doing this SAME thing, so I gave the clutch away to a board memeber, haha, and got the CM STG 4 because I thought the clutch was toast. (board memeber got a new clutch for free, lmao) I found some oil in the bellhousing after realizing(or hoping) its not the clutches going out, so I figured the rear main seal was leaking oil onto the clutch and making it slip. Matter of fact, I just got done putting the tranny back in this morning.. I put a new rear main seal in, the OEM one did NOT have a spring around the seal to hold it to the shaft, the new NAPA one does... there was some oil around the rear main, but the clutch was pretty dry :shrug I am HOPING that will fix the problem.. I can't start the motor yet till Bill's fucking fuel system is released because I am kinda committed to that now that I sold the DFI. Edit: Hope something of my experience helps you somewhat..

Brad... that was me that got your old CFDF... heh it worked fine for me till I got my boost up to about 15psi...lol I thank you again my friend... ;)

Back on topic yeah a lot of cars have the leaky rear main seal problem... so that could be it. Best thing to do its pull it and check it out...
Or you could just take off the little cover plate at the bottom of the bellhousing and check for oil and/or clutch dust down there...

haha, I forgot who I gave it to... I am glad it worked well for you for awhile, it really was brand new, heh.. I doubt it had 5K on it...