I've only done this once and it was before i got my turbo. It made the differance in the race (which i won) But i'm not sure if it's at all benificial on a turbo. Since the bov will vent all the air in the ic piping.
Has anyone done it on their turbo setup??
I also was worried about reving it too high while double clutching and hitting the fuel cut.

Star Stage II (BB)
HKS Type-1 BOV
HKS T-Timer
Turbo XS MBC
Apexi-N1 Catback
Test pipe
Autometer Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F Gauge
Autometer Monster tack
Altezza stlye lights

Comming Soon...
CFDF Clutch
Full body graphics


"Thats not an FMIC, it's um... my alum radiator"

i think it would help.. all it does is provide a smooth downshift.

can anyone explain double clutching?

aem cai
greddy 4-1 headers
highflow cat
greddy sp cat-back exhaust
nx nitrous system <5o shot>
purge kit
engine wireloom (5 hp rite there)
spring performance 2" lowering springs
autometer carbon fiber gauges
(a/f ratio, nitro press, oil press)

yes please explain since i will be getting a 5spd GSX

Talon
97'Talon Esi
Injen short ram intake
Rear-upper strut bar

(to be installed)
gs-t muffler
aem cam gears
af\x udp
56mm tb
injen cold air intake extension
eclipse sideskirts and door caps

Mashing in the clutch to make the rpms shoot up. It works to start the onset of boost but if you need to do it you got a bad start or aren't in the right gear. Had some fool in a civic si (same one I beat about 4 times so far. he tries everytime he see's me) try and double clutch twice during one of our races. The first time all he did was spin the tires. the 2nd time was well into 3rd gear. dont know what he was trying to accomplish. Only beat em by a few car lengths. Still dont know what he has under the hood except a visible front mount intake and exh.

Since I cant use photopoint IMAGINE THIS:
Star turbo with E-trim and HKS BOV
Starion FMIC/2.5" piping
Joe P MBC
Apexi SuperAFC
Ross Pistons/total seal rings
Ported and matched intake manifold
AFX 55mm TB, FMM and UDP
2.5" downpipe back exh/Hayame muffler
Crane wires/Denso Iridium plugs
Centerforce DF clutch
KYB AGX struts/ST springs, UPR FSB, F&R camber kits
17" ADR lightnings/toyo FZ4 215/45/17
97' eclipse front end/projectors
Autometer gauges
Panasonic head unit/ Sony X-over
MB Quarts all around/JL stealth sub
Hifonics/MTX Thunder amps
XX brand alarm/Varad hyper green led

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Double clutching is done so you get no driveline surge which upsets the balance of the car. Heel to Toe is simlar to double clutching also but it's more for corners. You should be able to double clutch in any manual automobile, turbo or non-turbo.


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | B&M Super Oil Cooler | Performance Muffler | HKS Air Filter | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | HKS TYPE 1 Turbo Timer | Star Stage 1 T3/T04E BB Turbo Kit | Schroth Autocontrol 3-Point Harness | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |

I think mitseclips and talon wanted to know the proceedure of double clutching. A lot of people dont how this works including me.

The was I have done it in the past is say your racing someone and your eather in 2nd or 3rd and with the throttle mashed you push in the clutch and let it out fast. Doing this a few times while say in 3rd will help get those rpms up and help you to pick up more speed sooner.
But what I was wondering is on a turbo when you engauge the clutch the BOV vents the intake charge, So it's it a disatvantage cause you lose boost pressure for a sec, or will it have the same effect as on a n/t??

Star Stage II (BB)
HKS Type-1 BOV
HKS T-Timer
Turbo XS MBC
Apexi-N1 Catback
Test pipe
Autometer Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F Gauge
Autometer Monster tack
Altezza stlye lights

Comming Soon...
CFDF Clutch
Full body graphics


"Thats not an FMIC, it's um... my alum radiator"

LAST EDITED ON 18-Jul-01 AT 05:18 PM (PST)

good call sleepereclipse.
from what people have been saying its pumping the clutch while u're flooring it in the middle of a gear (am i right?). if so, wouldn't that be bad for your clutch?

aem cai
greddy 4-1 headers
highflow cat
greddy sp cat-back exhaust
nx nitrous system 5o shot
purge kit
engine wireloom (5 hp rite there)
spring performance 2" lowering springs
autometer carbon fiber gauges
(a/f ratio, nitro press, oil press)

It makes the whole shift action take longer than a regular shift. Let's say you are in 1st gear. You get to the Redline and you put the clutch IN, shift to Neutral. Let the clutch OUT, Put it back in and shift to 2nd and let it back out. That is a REAL double clutch. During the whole In Out In Out process you can rev match everything to not lose rpms. Older (50's-60's) transmissions always had to be shifted this way.



KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

that makes more sence. what's to prevent you from going way over redline though and blowing something up?

aem cai
greddy 4-1 headers
highflow cat
greddy sp cat-back exhaust
nx nitrous system 5o shot
purge kit
engine wireloom (5 hp rite there)
spring performance 2" lowering springs
autometer carbon fiber gauges
(a/f ratio, nitro press, oil press)

I Shift at 7200rpms ALL THE TIME. That is what rpm fuel cut is at. You ca't go higher than that.



KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

yeh, i know, i've hit it once or twice...one time i blew all my belts off when that happened. either way, you'd hvae to double clutch really fast if you were to get it into gear before hitting the fuel cut off.

aem cai
greddy 4-1 headers
highflow cat
greddy sp cat-back exhaust
nx nitrous system 5o shot
purge kit
engine wireloom (5 hp rite there)
spring performance 2" lowering springs
autometer carbon fiber gauges
(a/f ratio, nitro press, oil press)

say you are in 5th, and want to go to 2nd. say you are at 50mph.... maybe at 2300 rpms.... your engine and tranny are going at 2300. at 50mph your 2nd gear is running at 5500 or so. if you downshift, the 2300rpms of the engine need to match the 5500rpm of 2nd gear. hence a hug jerk and annoyance. during the downshift, if you hold the clutch in (or leave it in neutral) and then rev the engine to 5500 and THEN let off the cluthc, the engine and tranny will be at the same rpms, and no huge bog or jerk.

Another reason they HAD to double clutch those old musclecars is cause they have soo much torque and hp that if they were running a light weight flywheel and didn't have the rpms up when they let out the clutch, it would send you through the windsheild.

The whole reason double clutching was really necessary is because old transmissions had no *syncros*. You couldn't just shift gears, you had to match engine to transmission speeds.

I bet this all started with reference from "The Fast and The Furious" ..... well Let me tell you outright.. BULLSHIT!!!!!!! The *LAST* thing that you want to do is double clutch in a dragrace.

For more info on double clutching check out: http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/FAQ_clutch.htm

The whole reason for "Heel & Toe downshifting" IS to keep the car smooth at extremely high speeds on the limits of traction without breaking traction....

Guy
RS_Guy

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com

:)



KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

i figured it was reference to FATF. When i heard that, i was thinking "what the hell is this guy talking about?!" they were just throwing out a bunch of jargon that sounded cool.

Hehe FATF is causing trouble for us everywhere...

I recently met a dude with a Grand Prix and we were talking about mods... well basically he converted his car to "direct-fire" (aka distributorless) ignition.

So guess what the next thing he asked me was...

"So Do you have the $10,000 ignition system that they used on the eclipse in the Fast and The Furious?" Once I finished laughing I had to kind bust his bubble and bring him back to reality....

Guy
RS_Guy

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com

Dang didn't you guyz know that they have a how to on double clutching on the 2gnt page? I think it's in the racing section. If you must know how it's done, it is basically downshifting to rev match so you have no lag or driveline surge. Its most effective when cornering or if you need more power and your in the lower RPMS so you need to downshift to get more power.

Lets say your in 3rd and you want to double clutch to 2nd. You would clutch in put it in neutral (there are other ways but this is how I do it) gas it while in neutral to where you think the revs will rev up to then clutch in downshift into second and clutch out and floor it. It sounds confusing, but it can save your clutch some life and is smoother than just downshifting. That's how my auto teacher desribes it and that how they describe it on driving techniques.com .

You don't use double clutching in drag racing unless your from a rolling start or something. So double clutching was a bunch of BS coming from Dominic's mouth.


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | B&M Super Oil Cooler | Performance Muffler | HKS Air Filter | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | HKS TYPE 1 Turbo Timer | Star Stage 1 T3/T04E BB Turbo Kit | Schroth Autocontrol 3-Point Harness | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |

I tell you what, I missed 4th the other day and hit 2nd, tach'ed 9 grand, immediately ripped my accessory belts off, battery light came on, lost power steering, and still beat the 00 BMW M3 Roadster, now thats 2GNT-T power! F#%K M3 power!
--
Brad

This is how I downshift...
I'm going in third and I want to downshift to second, so I mash the clutch down and hold it, while shifting down to second. With my right foot I pump the accelerator to rev match the engine and then let out the clutch. I get no driveline surge, but I'm wondering if I'm doing any damage to my car by doing it this way?????



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

You are not doing any damage to the car. In fact you are probably prolonging the life of the drivetrain (in some teeny tiny way).

Actually what you are doing is basically "heel and toe downshifting" except usually in heel-and-toe you usually have the ball of your foot on the brake pedal and you tap the accelerator with the side of your foot *as you downshift*....

It sounds confusing, and believe me it takes practice (I still can't do it right 100% of the time), but it is a whole new way of performance driving. The aim in high speed and performance driving is to keep the car *smooth* and believe me it is soooo smooth if you hit it off right.

Next time you watch a race on TV where the drivers actually drive in a road course, listen to the cars when the come to corners. You'll hear a blip of the throttle as they slow down to enter the corner :-)

Guy
RS_Guy (Skip Barber Driving School Graduate)

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com

>Actually what you are doing is
>basically "heel and toe downshifting"
>except usually in heel-and-toe you
>usually have the ball of
>your foot on the brake
>pedal and you tap the
>accelerator with the side of
>your foot *as you downshift*....
>
>
>It sounds confusing, and believe me
>it takes practice (I still
>can't do it right 100%
>of the time), but it
>is a whole new way
>of performance driving. The aim
>in high speed and performance
>driving is to keep the
>car *smooth* and believe me
>it is soooo smooth if
>you hit it off right.

hehehe...it's not that confusing! I "heel toe" around corners and I do it 95% right of the time, the other 5% my feet get stuck in the pedals! (ARGHHH -- I think I need some pedal covers!)

I am just worried would I be killing anything by having the clutch depressed and going to one gear to another (not doubleclutching)?

>I am just worried would I
>be killing anything by having
>the clutch depressed and going
>to one gear to another
>(not doubleclutching)?

You worry WAAAAAAAAY too much. :-) Relax and *ENJOY* the way you drive.

Example: I royally abused my stock clutch, and it had never failed or given me any problems... (under turbo abuse too, never-lift-to-shift 7500rpm action)

In my experience, if you try too hard to protect something, then something else will happen and it wouldn't have mattered anyway....

Guy
RS_Guy

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com