I am currently running the star stage II setup on my stock 420a and its now time to make some serioius hp. I believe that turbo that I am running tops out at 450 crank hp, so I plan on pushing it to the the limit. I have a pretty goood idea on what parts I need, but I would like to get some feedback/suggestions.

I'm thinking 2.2L stroked engine with all forged internals, including crank. New valves and springs.

Cams??? Don't know if they are neccesary.

8 injector setup, not sure what fuel management system, suggestions?

stage III clutch and flywheel.

New axles, don't know which ones or where to get them.

New FMIC???? I'm pretty sure the one supplied with the star kit won't work.

Fluidyne raditor and new fans.

3" exhaust system.

I think thats everything. If anyone has already gone down this road and has some suggestions on where to get parts, do's and don't, etc. It would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the help

2.2 is good

#14 cams from crane(turbo grind)

vortech SFMU will help out with the fuel

the star IC is a bar and plate spearco IC rated at i think 550hp..its plenty good

Originally posted by TNemesis
I'm thinking 2.2L stroked engine with all forged internals, including crank.

Good choice

Originally posted by TNemesis New valves and springs. Cams??? Don't know if they are neccesary.

I would go with 0016 cams with 2.2L. and PT lifters/ adjusters too for the head besides the valves n springs, retainers.

Originally posted by TNemesis8 injector setup, not sure what fuel management system, suggestions?

Check out HRC's new Portfueler System. Bolt on quality, less hassle.

Originally posted by TNemesis
stage III clutch and flywheel. New axles, don't know which ones or where to get them.

Get a Stage IV Spec clutch or CM stage 4. Driveshaftshop.com Stage II 500hp axles.

Originally posted by TNemesisNew FMIC???? I'm pretty sure the one supplied with the star kit won't work. Fluidyne raditor and new fans. 3" exhaust system.

Should, but if not, get a Spearco of ebay.
CR radiator from Howell Automotive comes with fans.
Apexi N1, or if you can wait that long - an RNR or DSS exhaust is very good quality.

i hope you got money, cause everything you listed probably totals to like 6-7 grand

Originally posted by TNemesis
I am currently running the star stage II setup on my stock 420a and its now time to make some serioius hp. I believe that turbo that I am running tops out at 450 crank hp, so I plan on pushing it to the the limit. I have a pretty goood idea on what parts I need, but I would like to get some feedback/suggestions. I'm thinking 2.2L stroked engine with all forged internals, including crank. New valves and springs. Cams??? Don't know if they are neccesary. 8 injector setup, not sure what fuel management system, suggestions? stage III clutch and flywheel. New axles, don't know which ones or where to get them. New FMIC???? I'm pretty sure the one supplied with the star kit won't work. Fluidyne raditor and new fans. 3" exhaust system. I think thats everything. If anyone has already gone down this road and has some suggestions on where to get parts, do's and don't, etc. It would be much appreciated. Thanks for the help

This is pretty much my exact setup. I have the 2.2L motor with a star stage 2 and an 8 injector setup. I don't know what power I am making yet though, (I will hit the dyno very very soon) I left my head stock, but if i had had the money I would have gone with the 14 cams and the other mentioned upgrades/ plus port / polish and 1 mm over sized valves. You will need a CM stage 4 or better for that power IMO, Drive shaft shop has the axles I believe mine are stage 3 or 4. You will also need / want an LSD to put that power to the ground. I have the quaife unit and I love it but it's about $1100 so you may want to look to the retrofit if you cant get the quaife. Your Star FMIC will be just fine, and i have not upgraded the RAD yet but I will be later down the road. Talk to Hahn about his fuel system and see what it will do with the t3/t4, I still have not been able to talk to bill about it yet...

Thanks for the input everyone. I realize that its going to cost alot money. I have about 5000 saved so far, hopefull I can make it work for that.

Kirby, how much have you spent on your setup? Let me know how your dyno goes.

sounds good.

I also recommend the CR , it comes with a Spal. You can also get it from Chad on the forums.

Your DP is 2.5 , so also look at a bigger cat to transition from 2.5 to 3". I am putting together the 8-inj set up for fuel. To be honest that wont get you to 450, not even close (to the wheels). The Star FMIC, is not the most efficient , but it will do its job.

Hit me up on aim , pm or e-mail me. I might go through bakersfield on my way to fresno when im breaking in the engine.

I think at 450 hp you'll need a little better ic, but thats me. The supa dupa thin Star FMIC will heat soak w/ 25-28psi flowing though it quicker than you'll think.

Btw i'm chad, i have a nice connection for the C&R cores and I too recommend them for the money they can't be beat. You'll have more luck contacting me via email, MrBlunt2gnt@columbus.rr.com, if your interested.

Hahns fuel setup would work fine for a t3/t4 as long as its got the right size injectors for your needs. A 20g flows just a little less than a 50 trim and since Bill offers the 20g i'm sure hes got a map set for it already.

One thing that you should realize is that 450hp is a big mark and keeping the car reliable is going to go south. Our drivetrain was meant for 140hp, your shooting for more than triple that. Also it won't be a 450 daily driver, if you make 450 on pump i want to know your secret :), so theres at least 50-75 dollars worth of race gas when you want to turn the bish back up. O and don't forget the hours of dyno time that will be required to keep the beast tame. To be honest i think you'll be more than happy with a nicely tuned 350 whp.

Originally posted by Chamuko
sounds good. I also recommend the CR , it comes with a Spal. You can also get it from Chad on the forums. Your DP is 2.5 , so also look at a bigger cat to transition from 2.5 to 3". I am putting together the 8-inj set up for fuel. To be honest that wont get you to 450, not even close (to the wheels). The Star FMIC, is not the most efficient , but it will do its job. Hit me up on aim , pm or e-mail me. I might go through bakersfield on my way to fresno when im breaking in the engine.

What won't get you to 450? The 8-injector setup? It sure as hell can if you use the right componets. That's the best thing about the 8 inj setup is that you can upgrade to larger secondarys if you out run the ones you have...

Originally posted by MR BLUNT 2gnt
I think at 450 hp you'll need a little better ic, but thats me. The supa dupa thin Star FMIC will heat soak w/ 25-28psi flowing though it quicker than you'll think. Btw i'm chad, i have a nice connection for the C&R cores and I too recommend them for the money they can't be beat. You'll have more luck contacting me via email, MrBlunt2gnt@columbus.rr.com, if your interested. Hahns fuel setup would work fine for a t3/t4 as long as its got the right size injectors for your needs. A 20g flows just a little less than a 50 trim and since Bill offers the 20g i'm sure hes got a map set for it already. One thing that you should realize is that 450hp is a big mark and keeping the car reliable is going to go south. Our drivetrain was meant for 140hp, your shooting for more than triple that. Also it won't be a 450 daily driver, if you make 450 on pump i want to know your secret :), so theres at least 50-75 dollars worth of race gas when you want to turn the bish back up. O and don't forget the hours of dyno time that will be required to keep the beast tame. To be honest i think you'll be more than happy with a nicely tuned 350 whp.

I agree with a lot of what Chad has said here, you need to be prepared. I do however believe that if you build the drive train right with beefy axles and a good LSD the tranny will hold what you want to send it. These are tough little transaxles we have in these cars. Now you will also need some spindle work when you upgrade those axles as well. I plan to go to the neon gearing soon to give myself more gear in which to use the power. You need to know what you are getting into when you try to raise the horsepower. You can ask anyone around here I have been on the board for YEARS and I still don't know all I need to know to run these power levels. But I know most of it and the most important part is I know how to fix the shit if it breaks... I'm not saying you don't know what you are doing either though....

Ok, I just ran through the total cost for all the parts and damn... Its almost $9,000.

I titled the thread 450, but I think most of you are correct and 350 whp everyday driver will make a great car.

Currently I have everything from top end to LSD listed in my total. What do you think about

Star Stage II:

Plus, exhaust, radiator, bottom end, port fueler system, clutch and flywheel,

No forged crank, no new top end, no lsd

And do axles really cost 700.00????

And MR BLUNT 2gnt. I'll get in contact with you in the next week or two.

yes, axles cost that much. you wanna play with the big boys huh?

those are drive shaftshop stage 2 axles. 700 bucks.
i have drive shaftshop stage 5 axles with modded hubs. better get ready to drop a pretty penny.

I didt say the 8-injector set up was the limiting factor. Heck why do you think I went with it? ;) I do understand how you got to that conclusion after reading my post again though. I meant that all that still wont get you 450, at least not out of the box.

Throw in some dyno time like mentioned or invest in a wideband set up.

The built head is something to really think about here in cali. You most likely will not pass smog here with one. Wait till you smog and have another 2 yrs to use before you have to again.

Defenitely get an LSD. Invest in some better engine mounts and suspension. I would recomment sticking with your stock axles for now till you know you need beefy ones. Some get lucky and some snap them like twigs one less HP and torque numbers. You can always save for them later.

shoot for it man :cheers remember at those levels its gonna be a traction struggle. :thumbsup

Thanks guys, good advice.

I just passed smog last week....had to put the car to stock to do it.

Originally posted by grain
yes, axles cost that much. you wanna play with the big boys huh? those are drive shaftshop stage 2 axles. 700 bucks. i have drive shaftshop stage 5 axles with modded hubs. better get ready to drop a pretty penny.

Wha? When the hell did you get those? I thought I was the only one :) How much did you pay for them? Theyre def not cheap...

Also Kirby, when did you get stage 3/4 axles? They only just recently started making the custom hubs, unless you got the old style ones like Hahn had where its a bitch to install.

Spoke to Bill on Sat. the portfueler system should handle 500hp max.

My transmission is a 04' PT cruiser with Quaife. I got it for the higher torque rating and the lsd and nicey nice price.

grain got Hahns old ones.

Originally posted by Chamuko
grain got Hahns old ones.

Good deal. So that explains it. that's from Esseclipse part out I think. I wanted those awhile ago too. They're harder to install as per Frank R. at Driveshaftshop, so is why he improved on the design on the newer hubs.

stage II - 4340 chromoly
stage III - heat treated 4340 chromoly with hubs
stage V - 300M (denser metal) with hubs

Originally posted by grain

Show off :)

Acctually I got mine from Greg on the board (992gnt I think) so mine came with the spindles already altered, and my tranny came with the quaife already in it... I believe they are the stage 3's with the heat treated 4340 but they might be stage 4's :shrug . I know they do not work with the stock spindles cause I had to send mine to Greg, so I am sure they were a bitch to install. Greg had it done by a shop I think...