alright i have done a good bit of searching and most posts seem to be positive about BOTH of these brands of clutches. however, the CLM stage 3 is almost twice the price of the SPEC stage 3 clutch. where does that extra cash go for the CM? and does anyone have a significantly lower price than everyone else?

anyone using these clutches, how many miles have you put on them?

also, what letter of the VIN determines if i've got a modular or non-modular setup in my 95?

People that have used them love the SPEC cluthces. Thats what I am going with myself.

I have not used the CM clutches, but from what I gather its good at what it was meant to do. Yet others say that they wear fast.

I cant give personal exp. w/ either so take that lightly. As for the mod or non mod. thats a hard one. I have never seen a non mod design until I bought a 96 block with tranny. oddly enough it had the non mod setup.

i think they reason that the cm clutch is so much more is the fact that you are paying for the cm name. spec is praised from what i gather on this board and they are cheaper so i say go for them.

yeah thats probably what i was going to do anyway. 2 SPEC clutches for the price of one CM. so if the spec goes bad twice i make out the same as if i wear out one CM. so, hopefully someone here has the SPEC and can post mileage on them.

absolutely love my spec stage 3

that is all.

Both clutches have great repor on the board, as you already know. This is just my guess on the price difference ... your going to have research my information. I know for a fact that the CM Stage III modular clutch for the Eclipse 420A comes with the flywheel already riveted onto it. I'm not sure about the SPEC, which may be reason for the price difference. If the SPEC doesn't come with the FW then you will have to use your stock FW (drill out the rivets) or get yourselt a ligthened FW. The reason I'm guessing this is b/c a CM Stage III for a Neon non-modular setup (no FW) is about $475 - which is comparable in price to the SPEC price your quoting. Maybe I'm wrong and CM prices are just ridiculous.

As far as modular and non-modular setups go - I've always been told/heard that many of the 95's are a non-modular setup. Once Mistu figured out it was a bitch to drop the tranny with a non-modular FW, they changed the 96 and up cars to a modular setup making dropping the tranny a bit easier. Appaerantly ^^^ their are some 96's with a non-mod setup as well. The only real way to tell is take it apart and look :thumbsup

I think the differnece is clutchmasters come with the flywheel and you have to buy it seperately for around $300 if you get the SPEC. I am not %100 sure so dont quote me on that.

Ahhhh, good to see somebody thinking along the same lines as me. You just said it a heck of lot shorter than I did :rolleyes

I have a cluthcmasters stage 4, haven't had any problems. And why would you want to get a stage 3 when stage 4 is pretty much the same price. Also if you search, I think ard or something sold them for 649 so you can look at that.

Correction - MOST 95's are modular. The non-modular 95 2gnt's are few and far between. I have heard of 2gnt's with manufacture daes of August '94, with modular clutches.

For what its worth, i see more people complain about slipping SPEC clutches than slipping CM clutches. I've been here a long time and seen a lot.

Why a stage 3? The stage 4 is perfectly streetable (I don't care what anyone tells you, i daily my stage 4, it's not a solid hub, they're wrong.) and the same price as the stage 3. Why bother with a stage 3 when you want stage 4 power?

well the reason i was leaning towards the stage 3 was because i hadn't heard anyone who knew what they were talking about recommend a stage 4. now that i've heard that from someone who knows their shit i probably will use a stage 4. dino, you've got over 15K on your stage 4 right? in 6 years i've only put 30K on my car daily driven, so i guess if a clutch is rated for 15-20K that isnt so bad, considering that would be 4 years with my driving habits.

and i believe the SPECs do include a flywheel, at least it apprears they do on their website. if you check our apps under the "Flywheel" category of the clutch page, it says "steel included $0" the aluminum is an extra $400 though but i could be misreading the flywheel being included. take a look and tell me what you guys think:
http://specclutch.com/specMain.html

Originally posted by cyan
you've got over 15K on your stage 4 right?

AT least. it's been used, abused, launched, slipped, doused in oil, soaked in barsol, and daily driven for a good two years (until Feb, when i blew the motor again).

Still grips just fine, no slip.

Originally posted by cyan
well the reason i was leaning towards the stage 3 was because i hadn't heard anyone who knew what they were talking about recommend a stage 4. now that i've heard that from someone who knows their shit i probably will use a stage 4. dino, you've got over 15K on your stage 4 right? in 6 years i've only put 30K on my car daily driven, so i guess if a clutch is rated for 15-20K that isnt so bad, considering that would be 4 years with my driving habits. and i believe the SPECs do include a flywheel, at least it apprears they do on their website. if you check our apps under the "Flywheel" category of the clutch page, it says "steel included $0" the aluminum is an extra $400 though but i could be misreading the flywheel being included. take a look and tell me what you guys think: http://specclutch.com/specMain.html

We sell the Specs it does include a steel flywheel the aluminum upgrade is an option.

The Spec modular clutch includes a rebuildable modular flywheel. So when it's time for a new clutch all you need is a new pressure plate and clutch (throw out bearing too) and rebuild with your existing flywheel. The surface of the flywheel may need machining.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
So. All that's left, is everything - Jesse James

I have neither. I have a no-name independently made 6 puck ceramic sprung clutch disk with a stock pressure plate.

However, I add this for the sake of discussion. My clutch, while having merely a stock pressure plate and a ceramic 6 puck is similar to both the SPEC and CM's as noted in this discussion. It's been abused for over 6k miles at this point, and never slips.

I've heard of some SPEC's that have failed as well as some CM's (I've read of stories with both clutches failing in terms of the clutch breaking apart and causing big problems or just plain slipping). While I would agree that on the whole the CM's tend to hold up better, for the most part, I've heard of success stories with both. If I were to attribute a number, I would say that both clutch have a success rate of better than 75% with CM's probably higher than 90%.

I've had issues with two SPEC stage 3 clutches. Clutch Masters stage 4 now and lovin' it.

Stock pressure plate clamp load= 1000 ftlbs
Spec PP clamp load= approx 1200 ft lbs
Clutchmasters PP clamp load= approx 1600 ftlbs

If you want a clutch to hold the power, go with the clutchmasters. I use a setup much like Jason, I use a stock PP, with a 4 puck ceramic disk, and it just barely holds 15 psi on the S16G, approx 300 CHP

And there you have it folks. :D

If I were you I would buy the CM Stage 3 or 4, whichever you prefer, but get the NEON one that doesn't come with the FW. Then, find yourself a LUK stock FW, have it resurfaced, tap it (I can get you the tap size if your interested) and bolt your new CM clutch to it. That way you save some dough with CM, AND you'll have a "servicable" clutch similar to that of the SPEC. My .02.

When I do my next clutch, that's what I'm planning to do.

I've had my spec 3 for about 10,000 miles. no problems here.