Okay I installed my Vortech S-FMU a while ago and put in the biggest disc and ring in to make my fuel pressure right for my stock injectors. Since then I installed my 30lb. injectors and guages for tuning. So I now have it running perfect at idle but it is still very rich at WOT and the screw it out all the way it can go on the disc I have in there. So now the question is, in order to make it go down more fuel pressure do I put in a larger disc (like the one that come in it from the factory or do I put in the next smallest disc. BTW I ask this because I can't find any of the stuff that came with the votech and I will probably have to order another disc from Vortech. Thanks in advance.

Come on you guys. I know plenty of you have this and know this probably right off the tops of your head.

for lower pressures, you need to install the dark spring. you probably have the standard silver spring installed now. also, i would run the 2.72" disc, which is the 3rd largest.

james

Originally posted by siueclipse
for lower pressures, you need to install the dark spring. you probably have the standard silver spring installed now. also, i would run the 2.72" disc, which is the 3rd largest. james

I have both of which you speak of in right now and I still need lower WOT pressure. At about 45PSI at WOT it is around 1400 on the EGT. I am all the way out on the boost screw which is why I need to go lower at WOT pressure still. So what disc size would make my WOT pressure go down more?

What fuel PSI are you trying to achieve?? 45PSI WOT at 5lbs of boost sounds about right to me. And ... I don't think a EGT of 1400 at WOT is that bad either.

Originally posted by techboy
What fuel PSI are you trying to achieve?? 45PSI WOT at 5lbs of boost sounds about right to me. And ... I don't think a EGT of 1400 at WOT is that bad either.

I am trying to reach under 45PSI of fuel. I was under the impression that at WOT it was best to be running about 1500 to 1550 EGT's.

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by thedawg I thought you weren't supposed to touch the boost screw (which is for maximum boost attainable and is generally set correctly from the factory) and were supposed to bleed off boost from the bleed screw to avoid high WOT FPs...

thats what i thought too. do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it. btw here is my SFMU:

I dunno how then I am supposted to set up the bleed screw like that. I was under the impression that you should lower your fuel PSI by turning the boost screw out. Please help in setting this up because I must screwed up something when I installed this because there is nothing in the bleed port right now.

I thought you weren't supposed to touch the boost screw (which is for maximum boost attainable and is generally set correctly from the factory) and were supposed to bleed off boost from the bleed screw to avoid high WOT FPs...

Originally posted by thedawg
I thought you weren't supposed to touch the boost screw (which is for maximum boost attainable and is generally set correctly from the factory) and were supposed to bleed off boost from the bleed screw to avoid high WOT FPs...

thats what i thought too.

do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it.

btw here is my SFMU:

Originally posted by turbo8u
thats what i thought too. do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it. btw here is my SFMU:

only girls run SFMU's! :P

Originally posted by tim97rs

Originally posted by turbo8u thats what i thought too. do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it. btw here is my SFMU:

only girls run SFMU's! :P

only girls need 8 injectors to tune when 4 is all thats really needed :thumbsup

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by tim97rs

Originally posted by turbo8u thats what i thought too. do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it. btw here is my SFMU:

only girls run SFMU's! :P

only girls need 8 injectors to tune when 4 is all thats really needed :thumbsup

Only girls drive talons? :shrug But then again I drive a yellow neon.

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by tim97rs

Originally posted by turbo8u thats what i thought too. do a search in the turbo section for "SFMU: Boost Port" thats what the thread name is, read it. btw here is my SFMU:

only girls run SFMU's! :P

only girls need 8 injectors to tune when 4 is all thats really needed :thumbsup

Only girls drive talons? :shrug But then again I drive a yellow neon.

lol how many girls on this board drive a talon? and no, darktalon is not an exception :P

yellow neons are faster than jets, imo

Originally posted by turbo8u
yellow neons are faster than jets, imo

It breaks the sound barrier standing still. You wouldn't think it with the ½" if dirt on it. Very sneaky.

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by turbo8u yellow neons are faster than jets, imo

It breaks the sound barrier standing still. You wouldn't think it with the ½" if dirt on it. Very sneaky.

This is relevant to the TECHNICAL discussion of SFMU's HOW? Fucking postwhore, at least have the courtesy to stay in the pits if you're going to continue to blight this forum.

Originally posted by thedawg

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by turbo8u yellow neons are faster than jets, imo

It breaks the sound barrier standing still. You wouldn't think it with the ½" if dirt on it. Very sneaky.

This is relevant to the TECHNICAL discussion of SFMU's HOW? Fucking postwhore, at least have the courtesy to stay in the pits if you're going to continue to blight this forum.

And yet you dog me when I didn't even start it. Odd. :shrug

NM

Originally posted by QC DSM ESiT

Originally posted by siueclipse for lower pressures, you need to install the dark spring. you probably have the standard silver spring installed now. also, i would run the 2.72" disc, which is the 3rd largest. james

I have both of which you speak of in right now and I still need lower WOT pressure. At about 45PSI at WOT it is around 1400 on the EGT. I am all the way out on the boost screw which is why I need to go lower at WOT pressure still. So what disc size would make my WOT pressure go down more?

install the 2.42 disc and see where that puts you at wot.

Terry


96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by QC DSM ESiT

Originally posted by siueclipse for lower pressures, you need to install the dark spring. you probably have the standard silver spring installed now. also, i would run the 2.72" disc, which is the 3rd largest. james

I have both of which you speak of in right now and I still need lower WOT pressure. At about 45PSI at WOT it is around 1400 on the EGT. I am all the way out on the boost screw which is why I need to go lower at WOT pressure still. So what disc size would make my WOT pressure go down more?

install the 2.42 disc and see where that puts you at wot. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors) Mitchell on Demand copies available

Sorry I have no papers or even the discs at this moment. Would that be the middle size disc and ring then? Also what about the bleed thingy too. thedawg or turbo8u any tips or suggestions on the bleed tuning either. I seriously think that might help some of my problems if I am tuning with that.

the bleed valve is only for fine tuning, if 45psi is way to much for you you need to try the next smallest disc. Becareful you dont lean out.

Terry

Anyone know what that middle disc starts off at with the boost screw all the way in?

The "boost" screw should be all the way in. The bleed valve goes into the "bleed port". If you need to lower your fuel pressure at WOT full boost, then you open up the bleed valve to bleed off pressure from the inside chamber of the SFMU to lower your pressure a little bit.

If you are running 30lb injectors, you need to run around 20-22 psi of fuel at idle. I had to use the longer, silver spring to get my fuel pressure to go that low. When i used the darker, shorter spring, the top screw was almost all the way out and i still needed to go lower. Swaping to the silver spring solved that issue.

I also ran the largest disk in the SFMU, BUT i had at least 2 full turns open on the bleed valve to lower the rise rate a bit for the 30 lb injectors. I wanted to run the largest disk because I knew that it would give me plenty of fuel when i wanted to run higher boost, but also gave me the ability to run the proper amount of fuel by opening up the bleed valve. I believe it's best this way since you have extra fuel "on tap" just by closing off the bleed valve. But if you take into account of how much the bleed valve was bleeding off, it was really close to the 2.72" disk/ring rise rate.

Be SURE you "boost" port and "vac" ports are closed off all the way, and there should be screws in each port fully closed. Also, don't overtighten the small hex bolts that hold the SFMU lid on, it only calls for like 6 ftlbs.