I had problems after the 30lb/ SFMU install..I was overheating at idle, not running well and just plain drove like crap. I ran SS lines on the IN side but rubber on the return, kinda worried bout it still. I didn't have a FP guage at that time and I was trying different disk/ spring combos. Well I got my FP gauge and bleed valve hooked up and during a warmup saw that my rail was leaking. It was leaking from the hardline to the rail, it turned out that one of the two O-rings was broken. Got that replaced and the fuel smell went away. I put in the biggest disk/ dark spring combo and adjusted idle to be around 25psi, sometimes it flucuates a lil high sometimes. I'm gonna try for around 65-70 psi for 7lbs...what do yall think? I haven't got the chance to run it into boost and tune it because it has been too hot out here. I'm running hot still and overheat when it gets into the hi 90s and I'm running the 160 thermostat, dual fan mod. I just changed the 13lb cap to the 16lb one so we'll see what that does. I have noticed that an intermitent clicking (like a train) around the belts area, hopefully not the water pump. No coolant loss, but it might be just churning the coolant instead of pumping it.

over heating eh?

i live in florida. 100* here daily. i boost 16Lbs with just my a/c fan on the radiator and the stock thermostat and a hrc fmic blocking the radiator, and i dont over heat.

25psi should be ok but what are your o2 numbers? Have you datalogged your A/F ratio?

Take the turbo out of the picture, adjust your wastegate to min boost and work on setting up the base pressure first, get the car to run and idle good, then add the boost and tune with the disks ect.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Right now at 7psi I'm hitting about 80psi which is way rich and that's with the largest disk/ dark spring and the bleed valve to about half way. I'm probably gonna go to the 2.72" disk...but my main problem now is the overheating issue
Alvin

96 RST

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4193961127&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2Fsraid99%2Fp45653afedba6629e15fd2139c2f81811%2Ff9fac4a7.jpg&caption=old%20029

Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / MP 60mm TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

Yea I don't want to sound like an ass, so don't take this wrong. Did you mix your antifreeze with water? Or just poured it in? I know if you run 100% antifreeze it will probly overheat. I know. I was a retard and did this once years ago to my first car.
Im running the same setup as you but on a cartech unit. I have not had any problems ith my idle. My base idle fuel pressure is now at about 19lbs. But this stupid cartech unit won't go any lower than about 100 psi of fp @ 9lbs of boost :(. SFMU is on its way. Anyway good luck, I hate to see anyone having problems.

Well I flushed my coolant out and upped the mixure to about 75% added some water wetter, changed the plugs too. And again it overheated, also I was getting some hesiataion at low rpms 1k-2.5k so I regapped from .035 to .032 and it went away. BTW the plugs looked damn white speckled since I was running the car real real hot for awhile, I'm still getting some white smoke, very noxious fumes and I know it's the headgasket cuz there is a lil oil in the coolant mixture. I'll probably do a compression check to see how bad and see if I can wing it till a rebuild. Planning to re-enlist and drop about 3k into the rebuild. Another thing is that I'm still running rich on the 2.72/ dark spring/ bleed valve combo...I think I'll bleed it alot more this time, but you think I should try the silver spring?
Ya know when things aren't going well I feel like selling the car and getting a GST/ GSX, but then again when it's all gravy I love the car.
Alvin

96 RST

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4193961127&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2Fsraid99%2Fp45653afedba6629e15fd2139c2f81811%2Ff9fac4a7.jpg&caption=old%20029

Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / MP 60mm TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
Yea I don't want to sound like an ass, so don't take this wrong. Did you mix your antifreeze with water? Or just poured it in? I know if you run 100% antifreeze it will probly overheat. I know. I was a retard and did this once years ago to my first car. Im running the same setup as you but on a cartech unit. I have not had any problems ith my idle. My base idle fuel pressure is now at about 19lbs. But this stupid cartech unit won't go any lower than about 100 psi of fp @ 9lbs of boost :(. SFMU is on its way. Anyway good luck, I hate to see anyone having problems.

Call BEGi and get the restrictor for the vacuum line. You don't need the SFMU. Get the restrictor and I GUARANTEE you'll be able to get the fuel pressures down. I had the EXACT same issue you did. Let me guess, the bleed screw is turned almost all the way out and you're still getting really high fuel pressures? Get teh restrictor and you'll be fine.

Yes that is the case, either way I found a sfmu for 160$ on ebay. It should be here this week.

Ok, spend $160 on a new regulator then another $15-$30 on fittings to make the SFMU, or pay NOTHING, or next to nothing, and have the Cartech work just as well. It's your money, but I'd go the cheap route if it works just as well.

you made the smart choice the SFMU is very superior to the crpatech. All you have to do is look at the internal construction. (dont remove the valve assy from the bottomof the SFMU, papers say you have to replace it if you do.) Sell of the cartech and enjoy the fine peice of engineering you just bough at an awesome price! :)

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Well I put in the restrictor but have not yet tested it into boost, the thing is I run rich at like part throttle near 0, like cruising at around 80+ my A/F will go from yellow/ green to one bar green FP around 35psi. Any Ideas?
Alvin

96 RST

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4193961127&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2Fsraid99%2Fp45653afedba6629e15fd2139c2f81811%2Ff9fac4a7.jpg&caption=old%20029

Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / MP 60mm TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

well like i said the only person i know to run this setup very effectivly was "Mrslick" and he had to use the S-AFC. at 1000rpm he was -11 and the rest of the rpm ranges he was + or - 4. This setup will work effectly but i am pretty sure you will need the AFC if you want your ratio to be precise. now the 30lb injectors i have heard are easier to tune without AFC. Iwill have mine in soon and will be able to tell you what percentages i have to adjust.

Work sucks

Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)