Whats up? Anyways, the car starts up ok... but it has trouble idling. When the car is cold, the RPMs will jump from about 800-1200rpm randomly and the car almost sounds like its misfiring. When driving around, if you shift to neutral the RPMs fall to about 300 and the car stutters and almost dies, but then recovers. Once the car is warmed up it begins to idle without any problems, except for the neutral issue.

When driving, the car will randomly hesitate or sound/feel like its misfiring. The car always has this problem in vacuum, regardless of gear or throttle input. It usually stutters pretty bad in the vac/boost transition. Once in boost the car seems to be fine. Also, when the car moves from vacuum to boost the A/F gauge pegs straight to lean, and several seconds later jumps straigh to super rich (under WOT). I have a CEL, and heres what it pulled:

1. Manifold Absolute Pressure too high/too low
2. Intermittent/No Camshaft angle sensor at the ECU
3. Timing belt skipped one tooth or more
4. System too lean (bank 1)

I already went over the timing, and its dead on. I replaced the cam angle sensor, the MAP sensor, and the missing link. I also replaced all the vacuum line connections between the FMU and the intake manifold, the plugs (gapped at .065), wires, and coil (screamin demon). I havent had the time yet to get out with a datalogger and a FPG to see how the fuel pressures are. I have the stock injectors, a Vortech FMU, and the e-manage for fuel management. Im sort of leaning towards a fuel filter/fuel pump/fpr problem... but if thats not the case, Im stumped. Anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong, or what I can do to better diagnose the problem? If you need any more info about the car or the setup, please post up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

EDIT: I also lost the little filter that goes into the missing link. Where can I get another one, and would not having one cause a problem?

you could try removing the missing link to see if it solves the idle problem, just dont boost it..... i doubt thats your problem though.... did you just check you cam timing, or cams and crank? cause i could of sworn my timing was dead on about 10 times, but it wasnt, it was off a tooth or two and was doing the same thing.... it also sounds like your cam sensor, but you said you replaced that, did it make any difference when you replaced it? possibly a bad one? it sounds like youre on the right track...possibly a fuel filter or pump....if you get to log it, check your LTFT and let us know what it is....
by the way, i was the one you sold the 14b and manifold to about a year or two ago.... just thought you'd like to know that its in and running great.... later
doug

Well, the timing was checked by me and a mechanic just incase... I think they checked it at the cams. Right now the car is running SUPER rich... The car smokes so super bad at idle. I just pulled my plugs and they were basically coated black. They were only in the car for about a month. Popped in a fresh set of NGKs (gapped at .065) and all the idle problems basically went away. I rechecked the ECU codes and got:

-CEL Code 61 (no clue what that is)
-System too rich
-EVAP failure (which is ok because I had the EVAP system removed).

So replacing the other sensors removed the MAP and CAS codes... I also removed the e-manage and that made absolutely no difference. The wierd thing is that the missing link I have now is not like the old one I had... Maybe its because I misplaced that filter... Oh well, now I just have to figure out why the car is running so super rich.

Licksissors- Im glad to hear youre happy with the turbo/manifold combo! How much boost are you running, and do you have any pics of your setup?

This link is your friend. This item will solve your problem from vac to boost.

http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html

If your cas was bad thats probably why it idled like shit and threw that code. If your to damn rich at idle then turn down your fpr, if yours is adjustable.

And if i'm not mistaken the proper gap for turbo is .30-.35.

I tried using a voltage cap with the e-manage... it worked OK. But then the MAP sensor can still get damaged from boosting. Ill have to give this a try as well I guess.

The FPR I have is non-adjustable. The problem is it ran FINE with it for a good while, then all of a sudden began running super super rich. I have a screamin demon coil pack, and they say you should gap your plugs to .065.