Hey...

Well we did find the prob to my overheating

-It was the Head gasket, its blown -leaking -something...we did a block test and it came up with exhaust gases in the coolant…

So we have to rip the head off
This time I want to do it right…

I want the best head gasket – What kind do all you guys use??? Where can I order it?

Other then that – after doing a search – I read that I should get some ARP head bolts and that’s about everything I need to keep this from going on again….is there anything else someone would suggest while im replacing the HG?

I think most of us use an oem MLS headgasket. I ordered mine from Conicelli for like $36.

You'll have to pull all the belts and pulleys off to pull the head, so if it's time for a timing belt change, now would be a good time. Same with any accessory belts that may be old, worn, or cracking, worn out pulleys, or an old water pump.

Originally posted by BoostedGS
I ordered mine from Conicelli for like $36.

:-o How'd you hook that one up?!

we just replaced the belt, pullys, and water pump 2,300 miles ago...

where can i get the gasket?

and what about the ARP bolts!?

Use the OEM MLS headgasket, and use the Copper spray sealant on both sides of the gasket. Be sure to clean the block deck very thoroughly!! Scotchbrite pads and brake cleaner work well for me. And be SURE you take your head to a good machine shop, and at a minimum, have it checked for flatness. IMO, I would have the head decked to be sure its flat. Basically, decking is the removal of a very, very small amount of metal to make the surface perfectly flat. If the head has not been worked on in a while, you may want to have the valve guide oil seals replaced, and a valve seat grind done..ARP studs are not a needed item, but def nice to have, esp if you are going to push some power on the motor. Just as important though, you need to follow the recomended torque specs/procedures on the head bolts..

ARP Headstud Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit

whats the diffrence???????????..yes im a n00b

is the mls head gasket, just a normal metal headgasket - i have a metal one in there now....where should i go to get my headgasket????

TIA!

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
is the mls head gasket, just a normal metal headgasket - i have a metal one in there now....where should i go to get my headgasket???? TIA!

MLS = Multi-Layer-Steel. As in, more than one layer. Lots of places will have them. Shop around.

IMO now that you got the head off...do what he says^^^. ARP head studs i think is a must when pushing high HP's and the rest he mentioned with head servicing. atleast you got the overheating problem solved. ARP mart #141-4202 is the head stud kit.

yes i no thank god!!!

well the only place i no to get this stuff from is howell...there site is down right now... :wallbash

thanks for all the help

at what point would a head warp or crack?

"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"

Like I said, I got my MLS headgasket from Conicelli Mitsubishi. Do a Google search for their number. Or you can price one at your local dealership, but it's probably gonna be more expensive.

I ordered my ARP head studs from Hahn.

Our heads are aluminum, so they can warp under extreme pressure. A quick trip to a local machine shop for them to check and mill the head is good insurance. The last thing you wanna do is put it all back together and THEN find out it's warped.

Yes, we also got our MLS head gasket from Conicelli for $36. You can find them at www.partznet.com. I would recommend calling them, last time we tried to order through the website we never got a reply. We've heard that they have a new Mitsu parts manager and the DSM crowd has had "issues" with him ever since. But I believe that they still honor their discount.
If you had any overheating then you should at least have the head checked for straightness, but should go ahead and have it milled.
We didn't when I changed the head gasket a few years ago due to the common oil leak problem, but we never had any overheating issues, and haven't had any problems since.

Cody

Well...as always with this fu*king car, we didnt find the problem - the head gasket cant be bad. We did the test wrong...we put coolant with that blue tester...your not supposed to do that...your just supposed to suck up air from the cooling system with the sniffer....and there was no exhaust gages, we did the test five time...And after each time we put the sniffer next the the exhaust- it turned yellow..so the system does work...god damn, i dont no what to do about this stupid problem
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"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"

yea i was about to say...do0d...didnt we talk about this? if traffic wasnt such a biznatch i would have cruised down yesterday

personally i doubt its your hg seeing as how you're not really smoking (tell tale sign) and you're only overheating at idle. so my theories still lie in idle airflow over your radiator. you have a fmic? and how close to the rad are your fans?
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons

You NEED to do a LEAKDOWN test! Not every blown HG will burn coolant, esp if its a small leak..cylinder pressure will force the air through the coolant passages, but on the intake stroke, the negative pressure in the cylinder may not be enough to "suck" in any coolant, and the 13 psi of coolant pressure may not be enough either.. A leakdown test will put 100+ psi of air pressure in a cylinder..which should be enough to see a leak..dont rule it out just yet

we did a leak down test - nothing was leaking at all
it stayed right where it needed to...

as much as i would like to think it was in HG, honestly i dont think it is. We have done 2 tests - both negitive. And a small leak wouldent cause me to over heat as much as i do at idle... It must be becuase of the Mani - for one that bitch gets HOT!, 2, the turbo sits down low in the bay, and next to the raditor. Were trying to make somthing to fix this right now :wallbash


ok--- waite...What if my cooling system, was never fully bled right????...Would that cuase me to over heat at idle?????And why would it only do it at idle - and not when im driving????

The reason why i ask is becuase i just got off the phone with the shop- they said they beld it right...It sat for 45 min at idle- and it stayed at 175.... Could that be the problem!????

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"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"

hmmm...you say your everything shows ok to your cooling system huh?...how about what kind of oil are you using now. is your ignition timing ok? believe it or not this also effects cooling as well.

we checked my Timing - it was off one tooth..the intake...its fixed now...we fully bled the cooling system - let it idle for 45 min and it did NOT over heat...We had to take the mani off cuz we put a little crack in it- it will be done tommrow...i hope we fixed it..becuase before it could never idle that long without over heating
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"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"

Well prob the worst news i could have got

We took off the head anyways - head gasket is fine...Around the valve seats there was white puss looking stuff - coolant...There is fu*c*ing cracks in the head...and its leaking- thats why it was over heating... I no its becuase of the port job,and i paid 650 bux for it! - i guess the guy who did it, didnt no what he was doing!

shit what do i do now

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"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"

damn bro sorry to hear that. i would take that head and smash it on that dude's head. well what can you do? what sucks you're gonna need to port and polish a used good condition head to match your oversize valves once again. i know you probably didn't know at the time, but i would research the reputations on machine shops in your area. make sure they have experience with high performance port and polishing. goto ebay, there's port and polished heads being sold.

yea, man it sux...I emailed the guy...I am going to see what he can do...

any other place u no where u could find a ported head?
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"Oh yea, well...My manifold does cool twisty things"