If i'm planning on only running 5psi am i still going to need to buy a fuel cut defender?? thanks for the help!! i hope to be done soon.

If you don't want to have your engine seemingly want to die everytime you get on it, then yes you need it.


-------jezreel
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

any pressure over atmospheric pressure (greater than 14.7 psi absolute, or greater than 0 psi boost) will cause the ECU to have a seizure, unless you have some type of electronic (a diode and a resistor) or mechanical (missing link) fix.

i am completely at a loss for knowledge on this subject. how much should i look on spending... what should i get... where does it go???

thanks

http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html

Build that ^ and wire it to your map sensor. The parts are just a few bucks at Radio shack and it's easy as hell to build.

waite, as long as you have a missing link, there is no need for a fuel cut def. ...... is there?

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
waite, as long as you have a missing link, there is no need for a fuel cut def. ...... is there?

You are correct, sir.

then why dosent he just get a missing link..it takes like 2 seconds to install :scratch

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
then why dosent he just get a missing link..it takes like 2 seconds to install :scratch

People home brew FCD's becuase it's a far cheaper alternative to the Missing Link (around 50 bucks). However I'm the worlds worst soldering iron user and opted for the Missing Link's ease of installation.

mine was homemade..

Actually I am using both. I JUST finished installing that ^ FCD I posted the link to. (Thanks Nate)

I guess my ML is clogged up, but I have not tried cleaning it out. I have a plan, but that is for another thread. Basically I just want to get some timing advance.

After installing that FCD I just fired up my datalogger and watched the MAP sensor reading as I adjusted it with the car not running. It was at 29 in hg, I adjusted it down to 24.5 in hg. I'm getting about 25 digrees of advance, purrrrrfect! :)

You can adjust it to work however you like. Set it just below fuel cut voltage and your good.

some people with the Missing Link have problems with it, like me. i have the Radio Shack FCD along with the Missing Link. even with those two, perfectly tuned, i still get the very occasional hickup. i just deal with it.

from what i've gathered, most of the people who have Missing Link problems have a 97 ECU.

I have a 98 ecu. Thus far the transsition is nice, but I have only tested it one time.

wow.... um... i dont know where to start, i understand the diagram, but where is the MAP Sensor?? where do i wire in? and how are you supposed to set it? if anyone has installation instructions that would be awesome.

thanks

i'm pretty sure you'll be wanting to run more than 5psi in the future.

Originally posted by ner947
...even with those two, perfectly tuned, i still get the very occasional hickup. i just deal with it.

I'm retarded. Today I solved my problem by "recalibrating" the Shit Shack FCD. I guess the vibrations in the engine bay slowly force the variable resistor to drift from the correct setting...

Anywho, everything is nice and smooth again. Vacuum to boost and back again is completely seamless, like it should be.

Originally posted by etx
http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html Build that ^ and wire it to your map sensor. The parts are just a few bucks at Radio shack and it's easy as hell to build.

Are you using the one in this link? I may have to invest in one, I thoght it was my EIC that was making things rough, after countless different variations i'm ready to try something like this. I do not want it messing w/ my timing though, and since i've yet to read the link, is there a way for it to leave timing alone and only clamp/dump the voltage?