Ok.. look.. I just want to say a few more things here...

1) If you are going to turbo your car, get a god damn fuel pressure gauge. An electronic one for inside the car.

2) Don't post up questions about tuning your setup if you can't supply standard things such as WOT pressure, idle pressure, egt temps.. etc.. Have wideband afr's is most helpful.

3) For the love of god, will you people please get into buying a wideband unit and stop using the damn idiot lights on autometer gauages or the "theoretical calculations" from turbo timers? The only way to effectivly and precisly tune your ride is to have a wideband unit. Granted yes they cost money and are usually a bit pricy, but would you rather spend money on a new motor? Trying to tune by EGT and fuel pressure is not enough these days.

Hey

Im just wondering if you have any tips for me

Next pay check I wanted to get an EFI UEGO 1000 Wideband O2 Kit from extrememotorsports.com, there price is 548.97
Where did you get yours from?

I really want to get a data logger....But honestly, I think it’s over my head... I no enough about the 420a...But it seems when people are talking about there logs from there data logger I just go: :wtf :eek :scratch :twitch...I don’t think im the only one who started out not knowing anything...So how did you learn, can you refer me to any sites I could read up on, or any books I could pick up...any info would be sweet

TIA! :thumbsup

Before the 8 injector setup, I never had a problem tuning by EGT, fuel pressure, and listening to the motor, and looking at o2 voltages on a datalogger. When using a rising rate FPR, there really is not a whole lot to tune with..its either up your fuel pressure, or lower it, or change the rise rate ratio. Yes, a wideband is VERY nice to have, and can be of great tuning help. I am noticing this now, trying to get the 8 injector tuned well. BUT, there is a LOT more tuning perameters to work with, and much, much more fine tunability also, unlike the FPR. EGT's do tell you quite a bit, assuming you have the probe on a runner, AND you KNOW how to interpret your readings. I try to tune to around 1500 degrees, which gives me room for error between cylinders. One could be hotter, and one could be cooler, but is well out of the danger zone regardless. Its enough to get you close and in the ballpark of where you need to be. Is it a pefect way to do it? Not at all, but it works, esp when a dyno, or other means with a wideband is not available. For lower boosted guys, this may be fine, but when you start to push some power, a wideband is pretty much a necessity.