Ok, this is prob this most n00b question...

I was talking with my mechanic today (who is doing my custom turbo kit) and were talking about my fuel set up…

He was telling me that he was going to hook up my fuel pump to a switch, so when I boost over like 6 psi I could turn it on, and safely boost….and when im not, turn it off..
How does that work???…Is it an inline pump or whatever, and that’s how you can turn it on and off while still getting fuel? What’s the difference between an inline fuel pump, and an in take fuel pump. How do they work????

One more thing…. He is having trouble finding a FPR that will work, I have an OBX Fuel rail, and it has a return line at the end, he was thinking about using a regular vortec FPR and opening that return line and making it that way(like a gst would be set up), will that be just as effective ?

Im on 310’s .

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
Ok, this is prob this most n00b question... I was talking with my mechanic today (who is doing my custom turbo kit) and were talking about my fuel set up… He was telling me that he was going to hook up my fuel pump to a switch, so when I boost over like 6 psi I could turn it on, and safely boost….and when im not, turn it off.. How does that work???…Is it an inline pump or whatever, and that’s how you can turn it on and off while still getting fuel? What’s the difference between an inline fuel pump, and an in take fuel pump. How do they work???? One more thing…. He is having trouble finding a FPR that will work, I have an OBX Fuel rail, and it has a return line at the end, he was thinking about using a regular vortec FPR and opening that return line and making it that way(like a gst would be set up), will that be just as effective ? Im on 310’s .

ok let me stop laughing after that 1st question, oh my god i was rolling on the floor when i read that! are you sure you wanna have your "mechanic" do your system, because that is the most stupidist thing i ever heard. why the hell would he wanna put a swtich on your fuel pump...to save on gas? you need constant hi fuel pressure weather you feel like boosting or not. if let's say you don't run the HI flow fuel pump, and you start boosting, you'll get lean conditions since you're not delivering adequate fuel volume to your injectors. what turbo system do you have BTW? i can't really answer your 2nd question since Hahn and Star kits have different setups.you have either the Cartech FMU or the Vortech FMU 12:1 disk.i believe you're better off installing the kit on your own than having someone that thinks he knows what he's doing playing around what he doesn't know. we can help you step by step here.

Well stated....switchable fuel pump...hmmm...loose that mechanic..loose him fast.!!

why wouldent it work..the inline fuel pump acts as a booster to the fuel...the stock pump will flow enough fuel as long as you boost like 5 pounds, when you go over that the pump comes on....thats what he was telling me..am i trippen?

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
why wouldent it work..the inline fuel pump acts as a booster to the fuel...the stock pump will flow enough fuel as long as you boost like 5 pounds, when you go over that the pump comes on....thats what he was telling me..am i trippen?

If ^^that were true, then why does Hahn sell the inline pump as part of the Stage 1 kit? Stage 1 only boosts to 5psi.

Truth is, the stock pump will not, repeat NOT provide enough fuel under any boost conditions. The inline pump is not a "booster to the fuel", it provides increased fuel pressure. Your fuel pressure regulator will determine how much fuel is needed under boost pressures.

Why would you not want the inline pump on all the time anyway?

Don't drag cars have their fuel pumps on switches?

I wouldn't be totally opposed to this idea... I've heard those walbro's are fucking loud!! Plus theyre unreliable... Maybe if you had an EBC you could switch the pump on when you wanted to set it above a certain psi?

Speaking of which... Tell the mechanic to fuck off and go pick up a Supra TT pump. They're reliable and quiet.

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/choosefpr.html , go here and read! read everything about the fuel system. better safe than sorry. and i've had my Walbro Fuel pump for 2 1/2 yrs and it's still going, so i don't where you come out saying they're not reliable. the only mod i suggest doing instead of a rediculous switch, is do the battery wiring mod to your fuel pump to get more voltage to it. it quiet down my fuel pump a bit when i did that, or to quiet it down more, you can always wire two HI-flow fuel pumps simultaneously. follow the instructions on the kit, don't do any other modifications unless you know what you're doing...it's an expensive kit, take care of it the right way.

he was telling me that its going to put less stress on the fuel system, and it dosent matter, i can keep it on all the time if i want, just when i drive a long time and wont be boosting then turn it off.... this is the pump

http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/product_info.php?cPath=3_144_67&products_id=626

Where can i find info on how people set up there fuel systems on there 2gnt's?

See, im going to have a return line becuase i have an aftermarket fuel rail, i no most dont, and they dont use a return line, so what is there set up like???

There is in no way to even have the need to turn the pump on and off..Its not like you are using more fuel if the pump is on and you are not boosting..Thats the job of the fuel pressure regulator. An inline pump just helps the intank pump, and the inline provides much higher flow, and pressure capabilities over the stock pump. Both can be used at the same time. The fuel pressure regulator is basically a pressure sensitive bypass valve. When you are not boosting, the FPR is "bleeding" off all unused fuel/pressure, keeping the fuel rail at a certain fuel pressure. Now, when the boost kicks in, the boost signal is sent to the FPR, and then the FPR starts to close off the internal valve of gas flow back to the tank. This in turn raises your fuel pressure. The more the FPR "blocks" the fuel flow back to the tank, the higher the pressure. The pressure gets higher because your inline pump can do that. So when you are not in boost, there is a lot of fuel that is ciculating the entire fuel line system, because both pumps are pushing lots of fuel. But since the FPR's internal valve is wide open, all the fuel is bled off the fuel rail, and you get lower pressure. Its in no way hard on the fuel system. What most of us do, is hook up the inline pump right after the stock fuel filter, right inline with the fuel feed line going up to the stock fuel rail. Then, at the stock fuel rail test port, you connect a fuel line, and run that to the FPR inlet. Then on the FPR outlet, you run a completely new line that goes back to the gas tank return line barb, right ontop of the fuel tank, under the back seat metal cover. Hopefully this clears things up a bit.

Who thinks his engine is gonna blow, in, ummm two weeks?

If I were you, I would switch mechanics.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD
Don't drag cars have their fuel pumps on switches? I wouldn't be totally opposed to this idea... I've heard those walbro's are fucking loud!! Plus theyre unreliable... Maybe if you had an EBC you could switch the pump on when you wanted to set it above a certain psi? Speaking of which... Tell the mechanic to fuck off and go pick up a Supra TT pump. They're reliable and quiet.

His car is not exactly a drag car :rolleyes

I do have a fp switch but it's for anti-theft measures.

Where have you heard the walbro is unrealiable? ALso, it's not loud.



-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

can you boost say 11 psi, with just an inline pump and using your stock intake pump?

I would NOT recommend it. You are really strechin the limits of the fp and it one of those situations where a cheap part fails and you now need a engine because of it. Buy a walbro if you boost that hi – it's only 100.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

So running a high flow inline fuel pump wont work?
are you saying becuase it might break, or it cant pump enough fuel

so everyone here boosting has a aftermarket intake fuel pump, and also a aftermarket inline fuel pump!?

im confused

The pump isn't the problem, you can put an Aeromotive A1000 on your car and it won't help you. The problem is the regulator. using a larger pump will only cause more fuel to be bypassed through the regulator. You need to raise fuel pressure with boost. The reason people use larger pumps is because when you raise pump pressure(etc. allow less fuel to be bypassed by the regulator), the pump loses flow volume, get it.. pressure goes up, volume goes down. that's whay a walboro flows 300lph at 43psi and only 255 at 80psi.