Just wanted to post up and say thanks to the many of you who replied to my questions back in Dec. I started the engine pull today, basically just getting everthing disconnected. Everything is disconnected and went well as far as I can tell, so I'll be pulling it out next weekend. The only snag was the support bracket under the battery tray. The bolt took forever to get out, I couldn't access it with the transmission mount in the way. What a PITA. Anybody else wrestle for hours with that stupid bracket?

Anyway, here are my questions: I'm curious about the ARP head studs I have. They are used, about 10,000 miles. Do I need to get new ones, someone suggested that they might be "streched" and I should replace them? And ... is there anyone out there running a limited slip? I'm thinking this will greatly reduce traction problems and I'm wondering where to start looking for one.

Thanks again, I'll let you know how the pull goes next weekend.

Originally posted by techboy
Just wanted to post up and say thanks to the many of you who replied to my questions back in Dec. I started the engine pull today, basically just getting everthing disconnected. Everything is disconnected and went well as far as I can tell, so I'll be pulling it out next weekend. The only snag was the support bracket under the battery tray. The bolt took forever to get out, I couldn't access it with the transmission mount in the way. What a PITA. Anybody else wrestle for hours with that stupid bracket?

Yes, it's a pain. Using a S-wrench seems to work best.

Originally posted by techboy
Anyway, here are my questions: I'm curious about the ARP head studs I have. They are used, about 10,000 miles. Do I need to get new ones, someone suggested that they might be "streched" and I should replace them?

They may indeed be stretched. No definite answers here. It's really impossible to get an understanding of whether they've been used so much as to COMPLETELY not recommending them again. I have heard though, that ARP's can be used and re-used for quite a long time. I would bet they're fine (if they were only used 10k miles), but I would closely examine each one to make sure the spacing between each thread appears even. Also, was your seller reliable in telling you they were onlt used for 10k miles?

Originally posted by techboy
And ... is there anyone out there running a limited slip? I'm thinking this will greatly reduce traction problems and I'm wondering where to start looking for one. Thanks again, I'll let you know how the pull goes next weekend.

The main page has a discussion on your options for LSD's. I'm running one of the more inexpensive LSD slip ins that look like the phantom grip product. I've been very happy with mine for a while, but there are other options. One is the Quaife that's a gear based differential that most might say is the best out there. It also costs $1100 or so. It has a liftetime warranty. Besides that, is the Retro-fit product which is similar to clutch based LSD's you may be familiar with. It uses friction based materials you might find in a clutch to execute its function of moving your front wheels together at the same time. It usually goes for about $400-$450, but there's a group buy right now in the Announcements section for it for $350.

I would say for the most part, you'd be fairly pleased with all of them, given the one I purchased is the bottom of the line model so to speak, and it's given me plenty of satisfaction. In the end though, it's all about cost and understanding whatever you buy, you still have a FWD vehicle and you're always going to have to live with that handicap, so long as you drie that vehicle.

^^ good reply


The only thing I have to add is.. Since your pullin the motor and are having concerns with traction. Get an LSD and get some motor mounts. They help too :)

I have a Phantom Grip LSD and it works just fine for me.

i just take all the motor mounts off when getting ready to pull, drop the engine down a bit, then take off the bat. bracket.

grain - I appreciate the tip on the bat. tray, but I already got it out. I ended up taking out the transmission motor mount, letting the drives side of the motor drop, and then backing the bolt out.

siueclipse - I already have motor mounts, I'm just thinking now is really the time to do a LSD. You have the phantom and you like it?

Jason ESI - Thanks for the awesome post, points for you if I haven't already given them to you. My general philosphy when modding my car has been "spare no expense" It didn't take me long last night after some research to come across the quaife LSD, however at 1100 bucks, I think I'm going to have to pass. As much as I'd love to slap that on there, I just don't have the much right now. I'd like to spend around 300 or so. I looked into the phantom, which I know alot of guys on this board use. Any reactions to the phantom? Quality? Best place to purchase it? Just curious, on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard are they to put in? I'm not looking for specifics, assuming it'll come with insturctions.

I think I'm going to stick with the ARP head studs based on what you said. I got the short block from 420avenger. Some of you may remember him, he's no longer on the board - sold his car. I went out to Ohio to get it from him, seemed like a fairly honest guy, although, I really have no way of knowing. I've checked them out pretty closely, they look great.

Thanks for your input guys.

Originally posted by techboy
I looked into the phantom, which I know alot of guys on this board use. Any reactions to the phantom? Quality? Best place to purchase it? Just curious, on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard are they to put in?

Well, like I said, I'm really pleased with my PG (duplicate). It really shines on exiting turns the most in terms of adding grip.

Best place? HowellAutomotive.com is a great pleace to start, but I see ebay has it for $249 right now as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=2464371352

Just keep in mind that new Retrofit as that seems like a nice product for 350 in the new groupbuy and this new product specific to our application.

Good luck! And as far as finding the "best" LSD, since I consider mine effective, and I doubt by looking at other people with more expensive products putting out similar times, anything else is that much better for improving FWD traction, I think I would look to stuff that's durable and reliable rather than looking for the item that'll produce the best results. But that's just me.

the phatom grip is good however.. there is a pin that goes in it.. youll want to weld that pin into place rather than leave it loose.

Originally posted by siueclipse
the phatom grip is good however.. there is a pin that goes in it.. youll want to weld that pin into place rather than leave it loose.

Right, or use safing brackets as I did. Just use the Search to find out more about it or check out that last link I posted. That guy sells em too. They're only $5-10 or so, and will save you a ton of preventative heartache.

Oh BTW, here's a Terrific link to a LSD slip in comparision so to speak. You'll have to highlight the letters with your curor however, since it's black on a blakc screen. :-P

http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/posi_shootout.html

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to bit more research, check out some those charts you mentioned and whatnot.

Thanks for the Ebay link too, I might just do the BIN on that and be done with it, 250 is right in my price range.

Chris, let me know if you want me to bring my welder over on Saturday.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.7 @ 87.9mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

To answer your ARP headstud question:

You should always replace torqued stock head bolts because these bolts create the holding pressure via the treads on the bolt, which causes them to stretch.

When using studs there isn't this problem because the nut is what creates the holding pressure, and not the threads, cool huh? So, you should be able to use the studs a many times before ever going that road.

Jim - you can bring the welder over on Saturday if you want, but that doesn't garuntee I'll have the LSD even if I do a BIN on Ebay tonight. We'll see, I'll let you know over email. Thanks for offer.

Chris, on the phantom grip, your going to need to either weld the pins in your differntial or get a neon bracket. I dont have the part number but I'm sure someone on the board can get it for you. There is a bracket that keeps the diff. pin from coming out, ask bucknutty about his tranny when that pin comes out. It blows it into PIECES.

cant remember either. search my name in the manual tran section. i had a post about that last year, and the part # was in there somewhere. if u cant find it, let me know and ill find it for ya.


New/More Mods Comming... New 1/4 Times In March/April

there is a group buy going on now on the Retrofit limited slip. look into it, its a very nice unit and its going for a very good price on the group buy.

I checked out the Retrofit group buy, which I am very interested in, just not sure I want all the downtime. I was hoping to be dropping my motor back in complete, buy the beginning of April, doesn't sound like I'd even get the dif until then.

If I go with the Phantom I would probably just weld the pins in place instead of getting the Neon bracket, but just in case, what's the neon bracket cost? .. roughly?

This is proving to be tougher decision than I originally thought.

Originally posted by techboy
I checked out the Retrofit group buy, which I am very interested in, just not sure I want all the downtime. I was hoping to be dropping my motor back in complete, buy the beginning of April, doesn't sound like I'd even get the dif until then. If I go with the Phantom I would probably just weld the pins in place instead of getting the Neon bracket, but just in case, what's the neon bracket cost? .. roughly? This is proving to be tougher decision than I originally thought.

It only costs $5-7 IIRC WITH SHIPPING. This is just my opinion, and the opinion of many neon guys, but USE THE SAFING BRACKETS. The weld MAY NOT prevent the pin from grenading in your tranny. In fact, there are stories of guys over there exacerbating the problem through the use of weld.

Added from a post I made a long time ago:

"Update - new part released from DCX. Though it's obvious they aren't intended for the Neon trans, these diff pin brackets do work with a slight modification. You need to cut off about a half inch form the top of the "ear" on each one. If you do NOT do this, the ear will wipe out your driven speedo gear rendering the speedo non-functional. Part #04800059AA, you need 2 per differential. List price is about $4.20 each. "

And another useful post about my expereinces with a PG duplicate that was updated and then sucked (hehehehe):
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=34&topic_id=748&mode=full