Alright, I searched and searched and although I swear I saw the answer to my question before, I couldn't find it this time.

Anyway, is the Type H a DIRECT swap from the 3000GT bov? Can I use the HRC coupler with it? And just use the same vac line for the top? Also I bought the bov from slodsm and he already has 7 washers in there. Should I keep all 7 in there for only 6psi?

CORRECT TOOO MOUNDOOOOO. :thumbsup Jeez, the rfl looks almost the same.

edit: Just read the rest of your post. Yeah, where the screws are, it fits PERFECTLY at the hrc flange. You slip it on there, and tighten the screws using a allen fitting. As for the washers, I have none in mine. I actually cut three off the coils off so that can open at lower psi 0-3psi, and not have the wwaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrpppppppppppppp sound. Ever since I cut off the coils actually, I LOVE IT. Not sure if this applies to the type H but keep that in mind.

If the dude that you bought if from ran a lot of boost, then that explains the many washers in there.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

He was a stage 2 so probably no more than 10 psi. Should I even bother trying it with the 7 washers or just go ahead and take them out?

I'd personnally go without the washers first. How many psi is the type h rated to work at? The washers are mainly there to prevent boost from leaking, and I highly doubt it will leak at 6 psi.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Originally posted by jsupetran
I editted my post.

as did i ;-)

You need to remove all the washers for sure at 6psi.

I run 6psi, and I have one coil cut off. Any washers and the valve has trouble opening. The more washers....the more pressure is needed for it to open...

More washers w/more boost, less washers w/less boost. Id recommend cutting the first spring off....you can alwys add washers to compensate for the cutting...

put some pressure in it with an air compressor and see if its leaking... also look for other leaks you can fix, like the tb has a good sized air leak on my 420a's.

as mentioned above it fits right on the upper pipe.. Take out the washers and add if needed. At 6psi I think you may only need one if any. Also, the BOV pictured is not type-h (I think it type-s)... the type-h looks like a dildo with holes around the diameter of it.. I have a type-h on mine.


--------------------------------------
know me as santiago
boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

The washers have nothing to do with how much boost the BOV can hold, contrary to popular belief. The washers are only used for the BOV leaking at idle. The BOV itself can withstand up to 30 psi. They are rated up to 25 psi for the type H, which means how much AIR can FLOW through the BOV, not how much pressure it can hold. If your BOV tends to open too much at idle, or "leak" then adding washers ONLY sitffens it up so it doesnt do that.

Same idea....just the opposite way of looking at it.

More washers stiffins it up....so if you add 10 washers with 6psi...there wont be enough pressure to open the valve...

Originally posted by XtremeRS
The washers have nothing to do with how much boost the BOV can hold, contrary to popular belief. The washers are only used for the BOV leaking at idle. The BOV itself can withstand up to 30 psi. They are rated up to 25 psi for the type H, which means how much AIR can FLOW through the BOV, not how much pressure it can hold. If your BOV tends to open too much at idle, or "leak" then adding washers ONLY sitffens it up so it doesnt do that.

How will I know if it's leaking at idle? Will my idle drop?

Originally posted by corsagsbo
as mentioned above it fits right on the upper pipe.. Take out the washers and add if needed. At 6psi I think you may only need one if any. Also, the BOV pictured is not type-h (I think it type-s)... the type-h looks like a dildo with holes around the diameter of it.. I have a type-h on mine.

It's the Type H 34. There's different type H's. But yeah you're right. I just didn't specify.

http://www.turboxs.com/racing_bypass_valve.htm

Yeah that's the type H bypass valve, mostly used for MAF cars.

I don't know if you can see the piston on that one. Ok start the car up, pop the hood. Now move the throttle plate by hand and watch the bov to make sure it does not open at all. If you cannot see it opening put your hand over the end and see if it is pulling air in. It it does put in another washer and then try it again. You want the least washers in it as possible. Imagine your on the freeway in 5th and let off the gas, your vac drops to 25. So you want to simulate that the best you can and adjust the bov to stay shit when that happens. Since we don't use a MAF it's not critical, but you want air coming in the air filter, not the BOV.

Alright, at 0 vac or very low boost I get a whistling sound. It doesn't seem to be as smooth of a blowoff as the 3000GT one. Would cutting a coil or two off help with this?

If it whistles or you can feel vacuum at idle, then add washers until it just closes.

If it has trouble opening or surges when you blow off, you could try cutting the springs to loosen it up a little.

It should start to open when you rev the engine slightly and let go. Helps to have 2 people, one to blip the throttle, one to watch the piston of the BOV and feel for air.

This applies to most aftermarket BOV's... the greddy and blitz valves have an adjustment screw on top for this... cheaper valves like TurboXS need to have washers inserted. Same difference.

I thought the whistle at 0 vac or low boost was because there isn't enough boost to push it open more so I'd need to cut the spring.

I'll add a couple washers tonight to see if it helps I guess.