I tried searching and I see people have different opinions as to what to use and what not to use regarding the SFMU setup.

I run 440cc injectors with the FMU right now and my fuel rail is leaking due to insanly high FP, above 150psi. The FMU is set at 10:1, dont ask why, LOL.

Anyway, this is what I want. Please correct me if I am wrong and feel free to comment.

440cc Rc injectors
Vortech SFMU 2.72 disk and soft srping for higher idle FP
Crane 16 cams
16psi of boost, daily driven

I am trying to achive 35psi of FP at idle for correct fuel atomization. I have the crane 16 cams and vortech says I may need a bleed vlave to achieve correct idle fuel preassure. I am confused as to what to do. BTW, I am upgrading to 525cc (50lbs) injectors as soon as I get the hang of tunning the vortech SFMU and the emanage.

Thanks for any help.

Anyone care to comment? I am sure most of you are tired of hearing the same things over and over, but I seriously did not find the right information. The closest thing to it was Siueclipse's setup, but he does not have cams. Thanks

Originally posted by TXTurboGS
I tried searching and I see people have different opinions as to what to use and what not to use regarding the SFMU setup. I run 440cc injectors with the FMU right now and my fuel rail is leaking due to insanly high FP, above 150psi. The FMU is set at 10:1, dont ask why, LOL. Anyway, this is what I want. Please correct me if I am wrong and feel free to comment. 440cc Rc injectors Vortech SFMU 2.72 disk and soft srping for higher idle FP Crane 16 cams 16psi of boost, daily driven I am trying to achive 35psi of FP at idle for correct fuel atomization. I have the crane 16 cams and vortech says I may need a bleed vlave to achieve correct idle fuel preassure. I am confused as to what to do. BTW, I am upgrading to 525cc (50lbs) injectors as soon as I get the hang of tunning the vortech SFMU and the emanage. Thanks for any help.

You need to reduce the fuel pressure on the SFMU!! or get a high flow fuel rail... we use the vennom high flow and really good o-rings.

Originally posted by solareclipse98
You need to reduce the fuel pressure on the SFMU!! or get a high flow fuel rail... we use the vennom high flow and really good o-rings.

you do NOT need a different fuel rail, the stock one is fine and can take anything you give it, but at 150psi of fuel pressure you are asking for it. also, 'good 0-rings?' you just need 'new' o rings that arent cracked or pinched

you need a SFMU, not a FMU (theres a difference), a few times you say SFMU, then you say FMU with the 10:1 disc...so what do you have? you need to be able to adjust your static and idle fuel pressures, also... what the hell do you ned larger than 440's for if you're only running 16psi? what turbo?



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

I have both, but I am running the FMU with the 10:1 disk. I am changing that to the SFMU with the 2.72 disk, with the lighter spring.

I am getting a new fuel rail, not a venom or an obx. I know the fp is high, I did not tune it like that. The tooners did it, why? dont ask me cause I dont know.

Now, I am putting the SFMU back with 440cc injectors and I am planning on upgrading them to 525cc msd injectors.

I guess thats all.

Originally posted by TXTurboGS
I am getting a new fuel rail

you dont need one. and you dont need bigger injectors.



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by solareclipse98 You need to reduce the fuel pressure on the SFMU!! or get a high flow fuel rail... we use the vennom high flow and really good o-rings.

you do NOT need a different fuel rail, the stock one is fine and can take anything you give it, but at 150psi of fuel pressure you are asking for it. also, 'good 0-rings?' you just need 'new' o rings that arent cracked or pinched you need a SFMU, not a FMU (theres a difference), a few times you say SFMU, then you say FMU with the 10:1 disc...so what do you have? you need to be able to adjust your static and idle fuel pressures, also... what the hell do you ned larger than 440's for if you're only running 16psi? what turbo? _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca as needles of ice are the ill winds' talons the coldest of shadows they seep unto the bone

I NEVER said he NEEDED these things. They are good to have. You can do it cheap and get cheap results. Good O-Rings... New O-rings.. You can throw a rinky ding turbo kit together and run fast... but if you want to run fast and get some good times then you have to invest...

Thanks for flaming me integra lover.

Originally posted by TXTurboGS
I am trying to achive 35psi of FP at idle for correct fuel atomization.

Running 35 psi of fuel pressure with 440 injectors is insanely rich and you will throw a check engine light for "too rich". I am running 390 cc/min injectors with the 2.62 disk and hard spring and my fuel pressure at idle is around 17 psi.


--Kurt

Originally posted by KTECLIPSE

Originally posted by TXTurboGS I am trying to achive 35psi of FP at idle for correct fuel atomization.

Running 35 psi of fuel pressure with 440 injectors is insanely rich and you will throw a check engine light for "too rich". I am running 390 cc/min injectors with the 2.62 disk and hard spring and my fuel pressure at idle is around 17 psi. --Kurt

Good lord! I am going to beat all of you to death one of these days. Not everyone believes that running that low of a fuel pressure is a good thing. And you'd be VERY hard pressed to find anyone not on this board that thinks it's a good idea. Again I'll say that just because it works doesn't mean its the right way. Granted it prevents you from doing any thing electrical or fooling things since its a form of "mechanical" tuning but it has it's limits. The lower the fuel pressure gets the worse fuel atomization gets.

Anyway, none of you guys realize he's using an e-manage and can adjust map values to adjust how much fuel he's injecting at stock. Anyway, put everything you said you were going to add and then pull out fuel with the e-manage until you fuel trims look normal.

You people and your insanely low fuel pressures. Yes your car will make good power but you're not running the piddly 17psi of FP at full boost are you? What do you 90% time your in the car ... OFF BOOST CRUISING. What crappy ass fuel pressure are you gonna run ... 17psi. There is a reason all the fuel injectors are rated at 43.5psi and not come rated at 17psi. *gives up*

Thank you Thura. I was about to post the same thing. All of this knowledge I got from you and Murix.

The reason I want 525cc injectors is simple, more boost (20psi) with 91 octane. I know I will run at idle, but you cares. Its not like I am idling my way to work or to other places, LOL.

Now the reason I am getting a new fuel rail is very simple if you read. That one is leaking and has a crack at the end of it. Imagine what 150psi of preassure can do to your fuel rail, not a very good scenario if you ask me. I am getting a 95 fuel rail as it has an orifice at the end where I can attatch the return line, unlike the 97-99.

So, should I use the bleed and check valves to raise or lower the idle FP? I have crane 16's. Anyway, thanks for the hlp guys.

Originally posted by Avenger
Anyway, put everything you said you were going to add and then pull out fuel with the e-manage until you fuel trims look normal.

yup

failed to notice you had e-manage





_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

If you guys want to run carburator fuel pressures through your injectors go ahead... but they will act like carburators and drip the fuel in.

I would shoot for a 30psi minimum fuel pressure at idle. You don't want fuel static in the fuel rail, you want constant motion and constant pressure, not a static condition because the return line has the same pressure as the feed.

I think everyone running fuel pressures in the teens should put their S-FMU, or whatever adjustable regulator in a box and get a basic FMU, and tune that with an S-AFC or an e-manage. Figure out you can run real base fuel pressures and still get a good idle.

Adjusting MAP values or injector pulse width, and get your fuel trims in normal levels and your idle will be fine.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
It's holding down the garage floor right now.

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
I would shoot for a 30psi minimum fuel pressure at idle. I think everyone running fuel pressures in the teens should put their S-FMU, or whatever adjustable regulator in a box and get a basic FMU, and tune that with an S-AFC or an e-manage. Figure out you can run real base fuel pressures and still get a good idle. Adjusting MAP values or injector pulse width, and get your fuel trims in normal levels and your idle will be fine. Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com una salus victus It's holding down the garage floor right now.

i have 42lb injectors (not yet intalled) and the hahn stage 2... so you are saying i should just get an s-afc and install the injectors? i thought i had to have the SFMU i am confused now... and emanage and all that costly/hi-tech crap like the emanage isnt an option for me.

Originally posted by TXTurboGS
I am confused as to what to do.

Go with 8 total injectors and use your e-manage to control the extra four. Run stock fuel pressures and a 1:1 FPR. ;-)

I have all the items already so the 8 injector setup is not an option, but thanks for the advice.

I also apologize. I did not see you were running Emanage.

--Kurt

ok i am in a similar situation, i am gonna run 15psi of boost on 440cc injectors with just a sfmu, please help me with which disk/ring combo and fuel pressures i should be running.

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

Just one thing I was wondering, what are the people running higher fuel pressures for idle running pressure wise on 440's. Also, at idle, what are your fuel map corrections on the e-manage or safc? I am running a fixed idle/static value of 20 psi on the fmu. My emanage is scaled from 235cc injectors to 300cc injectors, however I am using 440's. My current map correction is -19% at idle. If the idle pressure was say 35, the map corrections would be like -40%, this has got to mess up the timing.

lates
james

Originally posted by jamesman
Just one thing I was wondering, what are the people running higher fuel pressures for idle running pressure wise on 440's. Also, at idle, what are your fuel map corrections on the e-manage or safc? I am running a fixed idle/static value of 20 psi on the fmu. My emanage is scaled from 235cc injectors to 300cc injectors, however I am using 440's. My current map correction is -19% at idle. If the idle pressure was say 35, the map corrections would be like -40%, this has got to mess up the timing. lates james

James, how is it any different. From my understanding of the e-manage injector scaler it's just messing with the MAP values without you knowing about and not showing anything in the main airflow grid. Yeah, if we run higher idle pressure we will have to muck the MAP value more but while having the extra(if any) timing advance at idle with little to no load on the motor even matter.

Anyway, this is before screwed up my fuel setup. Using the SAFC, Aeromotive 1:1, and Vortech FMU with idle pressure 28psi, idle AFC correction -46%, and ECU ST -10%. My situtation was a little different because I had big cams and no vacuum at idle so I dump a lot more fuel at idle than someone with stock cams (when I was NA with these cams on stock injectors I had -30% at idle taken out on stock FP to not run rich). The car ran good with that setup for idle. It ran better at cruise than my current setup, though it idle roughe but not bad. My current setup has fits at cruise and hates to idle without a little bit of extra air (CF FMU).

All in all my point is this is all just at idle. Granted you still have some mid range work to do but in the end up top it will be the same in both setups if the rising rate is setup right. There will be some point at which the fuel pressures in both setups will meet. The rise rate will be different in each. The setup I suggested will probably get you more timing in the mid range from using MAP correction ... and in my opinion I like that. The only other difference will be at cruise where one setup will have a little more advance(if any) than the other and one will run more normal FP (in my opinion) during that time.

Originally posted by TXTurboGS
I have all the items already so the 8 injector setup is not an option, but thanks for the advice.

i agree with JasonEsi, 8-injectors will make life a lot easier, do what i did, sell the SFMU, and save for the 8-injector mod, it's the best solution other than a standalone. you don't have to worry about insanely high fuel pressures, bad idle, bad gas mileage, and not worry about timing issues. i've been there, i was SFMU, 1:5:1 disk, and 50lb Delphi injectors, and i wasn't happy with it, i've boosted to 22psi, no problems, but i'm maxing out my injectors and idle is terrible. also everytime you start your car, lots of fuel gets dumped, i had half a tank one time, and while i was warming up my car, you see the needle drop like 1mm every 20sec, till it fully warms up. it sucks, it's not a good solution. oh and 10:1 FMU for those injectors are overkill! that's why your fuel rail is cracked.

Originally posted by DarKReaLity

Originally posted by TXTurboGS I have all the items already so the 8 injector setup is not an option, but thanks for the advice.

i agree with JasonEsi, 8-injectors will make life a lot easier, do what i did, sell the SFMU, and save for the 8-injector mod, it's the best solution other than a standalone. you don't have to worry about insanely high fuel pressures, bad idle, bad gas mileage, and not worry about timing issues. i've been there, i was SFMU, 1:5:1 disk, and 50lb Delphi injectors, and i wasn't happy with it, i've boosted to 22psi, no problems, but i'm maxing out my injectors and idle is terrible. also everytime you start your car, lots of fuel gets dumped, i had half a tank one time, and while i was warming up my car, you see the needle drop like 1mm every 20sec, till it fully warms up. it sucks, it's not a good solution. oh and 10:1 FMU for those injectors are overkill! that's why your fuel rail is cracked.

Not only does the fuel setup get easier to control and the concerns regarding fuel pressures disappear, but your 40lb. and 50lb. injectors get a WHOLE lot bigger for less cost. I mean, 235cc injectors are easy and cheap to come by, and 40 and 50lbs injectors are somewhat more expensive, but any larger than that, and it's hard to afford or even acquire, larger injectors. Automatically, your 40 and 50lb injectors become 60-70lb injectors. And with big ole' turbos that most of us run, having injectors that large is a necessity. Besides, playing the fuel pressure game SUCKS.