Ever since I installed the Wiseco 8:5:1 standard bore compression pistons, I've been hearing this ticking noise thinking that it was the lifters and ended up replacing them but guess what, still made that sound so I did a search trying to find out what was causing this and it sounds more like piston slap. when I start the car in the morning, I can hear really good but it quites down after the engine warms up. When I rev the car or drive it at low rpm like between 1 to 3rpm I can hear it ticking. Will this effect the vehicle in the long run? Is there a way to fix this problem other then a rebuild? Any suggestions A okay.

i used to get "piston slap" when it was really cold out.

then i completely upgraded the valvetrain. new seals, valves, springs, retainers, rockers, the works.

the "piston slap" went away...

Originally posted by ner947
i used to get "piston slap" when it was really cold out. then i completely upgraded the valvetrain. new seals, valves, springs, retainers, rockers, the works. the "piston slap" went away...

tell me about these upgrades explicitly... (prices if possible)

I also have """"piston slap"""" that doesnt go away past idle...

I got Wiseco 8.5:1 and I also get slap when the motors cold... It's the nature of the beast with forged pistons...
Once I'm warmed up it goes away though.

I have piston slap and it is perfectly normal. A properly built motor wiht fordged pistons should only be quiet when it is at its maximum operating temperature.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...

Yep, I've got JE pistons and I've had piston slap since the rebuild. It quiets down after the car warms up, but I can still hear it a little bit. I've got 30,000+ miles on the built engine without noticing any problems caused by it.

i dont think it does have any bad effect on an engine, it is just natural with the way forged is and how metal expands/contracts based on temp. you can try replacing your valvetrain, but lifter tick wont really hurt you. at max, it is a minor annoyance. both my cars have lifter tick. i aint replacing nothing unless i HAVE to. :-)

Originally posted by Diceman19
i dont think it does have any bad effect on an engine, it is just natural with the way forged is and how metal expands/contracts based on temp. you can try replacing your valvetrain, but lifter tick wont really hurt you. at max, it is a minor annoyance. both my cars have lifter tick. i aint replacing nothing unless i HAVE to. :-)

Thats good to hear... valvetrain is f#*$(#*#(ing expensive...

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD

Originally posted by Diceman19 i dont think it does have any bad effect on an engine, it is just natural with the way forged is and how metal expands/contracts based on temp. you can try replacing your valvetrain, but lifter tick wont really hurt you. at max, it is a minor annoyance. both my cars have lifter tick. i aint replacing nothing unless i HAVE to. :-)

Thats good to hear... valvetrain is f#*$(#*#(ing expensive...

fully agree. :-) and another reason why i am not replacing it until i have to. ha.

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD
tell me about these upgrades explicitly... (prices if possible) I also have """"piston slap"""" that doesnt go away past idle...

OEM PT cruiser rocker arms - $120 ish
Eaton style lifters - $80 ish
1mm oversized valves - $250 ish
crane valve springs/titanium retainers - $260 ish

not exactly sure on those prices, i bought all of that stuff from Howell, poke around a little and you'll find more accurate pricing.

From RRE:
Wiseco pistons have a higher silicon content than the J&E pistons, so they do not expand as much allowing a tighter cylinder to wall clearance than the J&E pistons. However this higher silicon content weakens the aluminum some.

Consult your engine builder before diving into this, as a wrong cylinder to wall clearance will result in either bad piston slap or premature wear.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclengine.htm

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD tell me about these upgrades explicitly... (prices if possible) I also have """"piston slap"""" that doesnt go away past idle...

OEM PT cruiser rocker arms - $120 ish Eaton style lifters - $80 ish 1mm oversized valves - $250 ish crane valve springs/titanium retainers - $260 ish not exactly sure on those prices, i bought all of that stuff from Howell, poke around a little and you'll find more accurate pricing.

the oversized valves require attention by a machine shop right?

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD tell me about these upgrades explicitly... (prices if possible) I also have """"piston slap"""" that doesnt go away past idle...

OEM PT cruiser rocker arms - $120 ish Eaton style lifters - $80 ish 1mm oversized valves - $250 ish crane valve springs/titanium retainers - $260 ish not exactly sure on those prices, i bought all of that stuff from Howell, poke around a little and you'll find more accurate pricing.

the oversized valves require attention by a machine shop right?

Yes, they will need to perform a valve job on your head... I just recently had my entire head worked over for $450.00 that included all the vaccume checks and pressure checks and new SI valves/seats/seals/springs/retainers etc... We are waiting for washers for the ARP studs probably get them tomorrow...

Originally posted by solareclipse98

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD tell me about these upgrades explicitly... (prices if possible) I also have """"piston slap"""" that doesnt go away past idle...

OEM PT cruiser rocker arms - $120 ish Eaton style lifters - $80 ish 1mm oversized valves - $250 ish crane valve springs/titanium retainers - $260 ish not exactly sure on those prices, i bought all of that stuff from Howell, poke around a little and you'll find more accurate pricing.

the oversized valves require attention by a machine shop right?

Yes, they will need to perform a valve job on your head... I just recently had my entire head worked over for $450.00 that included all the vaccume checks and pressure checks and new SI valves/seats/seals/springs/retainers etc... We are waiting for washers for the ARP studs probably get them tomorrow...

450???? where??!?!?!?!?!

my shop wants SEVEN HUNDRED just for labor.

Thanks for all of the info. So no one has ever had any bad experience that they had to deal with having this piston slap right? Have any of you guys ever ran 1 to 2 psi of boost higher then the suggested psi for a stage one kit (star) with aftermarket forged pistons without an intercooler? Would it still be safe or is this just plain crazy?

5psi is safe not mainly because of the internals, but because of the heat. Anything above 5psi is gonna blow VERY hot air and that's dangerous. 5psi intercooled is WAY safer than 5psi non-intercooled. AGain, it's all in the tuning.

My JE's sound like a diesel when the engine is cold. It's embarrassing sometimes. When people ask what that sound is, I just tell them I have a diesel 4 banger:D

Yeah, it does sound funky especially when your reving it at low rpm.


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or you will lose
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ANY built motor, with aftermarket forged pistons, will piston slap when its cold. you WANT this in some regards, but there can also be excessive piston slap. mine does it when its cold....once warmed up, at idle, it is not noticeable at all. which is how it should be.

1999 C5
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the suggestions. It makes me feel more comfortable to hearing this piston slap that I hear everytime I start my car. At first I was like dam! All this money put into this motor and it sounds like this. What the hell, but seeing that a lot of you guys also have this experience and also live with it day to day not having no problems what so ever is with your cars makes me not worry too much then. How many lb boost are you guys pushing with this piston slap?

Originally posted by bonecupidboze
Hey guys, Thanks for all of the suggestions. It makes me feel more comfortable to hearing this piston slap that I hear everytime I start my car. At first I was like dam! All this money put into this motor and it sounds like this. What the hell, but seeing that a lot of you guys also have this experience and also live with it day to day not having no problems what so ever is with your cars makes me not worry too much then. How many lb boost are you guys pushing with this piston slap?

im not sure i fully understand your question but piston slap will not limit the amount of boost you can run. you can run as much as you want.(to a level) you will want to let you car warm up a little before boosting it hard but you should be able to run any amount of boost that you can tune properly.