A friend of mine with a 2g awd told me he'll give me his T25 and stock sidemount when he upgrades in a month or two so I am considering going with a custom setup. I had a few questions that maybe can get answered on here. I know all the parts I'll need, and I've worked on Gorkoracing's Star Stage II more times than I'd care to count, so I'm familiar with most of it. Here are the questions I've run into.

I think the Chill Factory downpipe would work with the T25, but not 100% certain. Even if it does, it's a bit on the expensive side. Does anyone know where I could get a flange to mate to the T25 so that I could have a downpipe made?

I've heard the 2g T25 actuators won't allow them to make less than 12psi. Is this true? I am probably going to go with an external gate anyways. I plan on running around 6psi on the T25 and sidemount. Should I get the .3bar spring in a Tial 38mm gate, or is there a better setup?

This is a list of parts I have so far, let me know if I'm missing anything.

Custom manifold and downpipe, turbo and intercooler, 1g bov, joe p mbc, missing link, s-fmu, fuel pump, boost egt and fuel pressure gauges, miscellaneous hoses and couplers and lines, and I can make my own intercooler pipes. If I need the external gate, I already listed the one I am looking at above. I plan on running around 6psi until I rebuild, then up the boost a little and later on upgrade to an 8 injector setup with a big T28 and front mount. I'm only looking for something in the neighborhood of 300hp.

Originally posted by Dave41079
Does anyone know where I could get a flange to mate to the T25 so that I could have a downpipe made?

you gonna have to maybe find a flange off a stock gst, and maybe cut off the flange. and then have an exhaust shop make you a dp.

I've heard the 2g T25 actuators won't allow them to make less than 12psi. Is this true?

yes, tim97rs had to custom make its wastgate arm shorter and shit, pita.

I am probably going to go with an external gate anyways. I plan on running around 6psi on the T25 and sidemount. Should I get the .3bar spring in a Tial 38mm gate, or is there a better setup?

ekkk, thats gonna be a good amount of work. you have to get an exhaust manifold cut, and a wastegate flange welded on, and then you have to get the wastegate out of the t-25 and prolly port it out.

This is a list of parts I have so far, let me know if I'm missing anything. Custom manifold and downpipe, turbo and intercooler, 1g bov, joe p mbc, missing link, s-fmu, fuel pump, boost egt and fuel pressure gauges, miscellaneous hoses and couplers and lines, and I can make my own intercooler pipes. If I need the external gate, I already listed the one I am looking at above. I plan on running around 6psi until I rebuild, then up the boost a little and later on upgrade to an 8 injector setup with a big T28 and front mount. I'm only looking for something in the neighborhood of 300hp.

um.. you say you have these parts already? manifold/downpipe? huh?

and you dont need that mbc. btw, the t-25 sucks.

well I didnt know about the 12psi thing on the t25, that is interesting. Also, if you go with a .3bar spring you will need a boost controller or you'll be stuck at 4-5psi for the life of the kit, or until you get a new spring. I think the t25 is a bad idea, at the very least I would go with a 14b.

I'm so fuckin sick of "the t-25 sucks". If he's getting it for free then that sure doesn't suck. Free t-25 > $700 t3/t4 imo

forget about a pre-made downpipe since you gonna have a custom manifold you will need a custom downpipe too because of the placement of the turbo

Roardrace engineering are selling what they call O2 eliminator flange
that's what you need to make a downpipe

your list look goods

I also well manifold to put t-25 on 2gnt PM me for details

Alain

Grain, no offense, but I'll just pretend you didn't post. It's a FREE turbo, and a T25 boosting at 6 psi is plenty. Like I said, plan on upgrading to a T28 variant later, which would simply bolt in place of the T25. I know that all you have to do is weld the flapper shut on the internal gate to use an external, and I knew I'd have to use an MBC with the .3bar spring. The reason why I wanted the .3bar is in case anything goes wrong and I need to lower the boost(like the s-fmu craps out). Getting a custom downpipe won't be a problem if I can find the flanges I need. Thanks for the info on that Alain. I'll definitely PM you about a manifold when I am getting ready to do this. All I would need is one that bolts up to a 2g T25 and has a place to mount a 38mm Tial. Thanks for all the positive input. Oh, and that's not a list of parts I am in posession of, it is the parts list I've come up with thus far.

since you will probably have to reposition the wastegate actuator, which is needed with my manifold design, you could take a look at the external spring mod for the wastegate actuator

http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html

it preloads the wastegate and make it completely adjustable

several members have done it on their turbos

Alain

I might try that. I'd still get the flange on the ehx mani and just cap it off. You never know what you might need in the future. I've heard rumors the turbine side of the T25 can be clocked. If this is true, couldn't I use a 4g63 O2 housing and make a downpipe that bolts to that and runs to the cat? That would make it a lot easier(and cheaper for me).

usging a 4g63 o2 housing is out of the question.

a t25 isn't a bad start but if you going external why stop ata puny t28 better atleast get a 16/18/20g

other wise your wasting your time with an external wastegate.

A big T28 isn't exactly puny. It is capable of approximately the same HP levels as a big 16G, but has faster spoolup because it has a ball bearing center cartridge. My goal is 300hp which the big T28 is quite capable of. My whole reason for using an external gate is because I wasn't aware you could lower the boost on a T25 by modifying the wastegate actuator. Could you go into a little more detail as to why a 4g63 O2 housing won't work besides just saying it won't? I'm sure you are right and know what you're talking about. I've read plenty of your posts to realize that. I just like to know why things do or do not work.

lol, never helping you again. thank you

The o2 housing on the turbo wont work because "clocking" a turbo will not turn the o2 housing. The turbine section will remain static and you actually "clock" the compressor housing so your outlet tube is in a usable position. If you use alain's manifold (which you should) your o2 housing will be pointing directly into the radiator/fan assembly and there's no room to make a pipe to go up to it and bend around to fit. It's pretty easy though, use your 02 housing and make a template and have a flange cut. Then have two holes drilled through it for wastegate and turbine output. Then have tubes welded to those two holes, mated, then turned down to your downpipe.

Well, I understand that the normal clocking of a turbo means that the compressor side is the only part that moves and that would make the O2 housing point towards the radiator. That's what I was explaining to someone when I was told that the exhaust housing on a T25 can also be clocked due to the way it's made. I was told(by more than one person, and people I trust) that this is entirely possible. I was just informed by my friend that has the fastest/quickest T25 powered DSM that this is incorrect. That's all I was asking, if Anyone knew if the DSM T25 had some sort of weird configuration on the exhaust side that would allow this. I can just buy the flange from RRE like Alain said, and use that to make my downpipe. I don't trust myself enough yet to weld up my own downpipe, and I'm not even sure my cheap little wire feed welder could handle the task. I'll just have to convince a muffler shop to do it for me.

Not bringing down you or your friends brotha, just informational. Here's a t25 turbo showing the compressor and turbine housing (no o2 housing but you see where it bolts on). You CAN NOT clock that turbine housing.

actually yes you can clock it
peoples are doing it when they want to install a t25 on a 420a with one of my manifold

it needs to be 45 degres at the turbo flange
you have to play with the cartridge for a proper orientation of the oil dran and the compressor housing too if you want your hood to close
last step is doing 2 small holes on the compressor housing to bolt the wastegate actuator in it's new orientation

Alain

Wait, alain, he's talking about clocking the exhaust housing, not the compressor housing....unless I'm just totally confused :shrug

Yeah I knew you were right, wasn't disputing that. I was just giving the reason why I asked in the first place. The people who told me that probably didn't understand what I was asking because they'd never have to clock a T25 anyways. I just figured up parts from JC whitney and it looks like I can make my downpipe for about $150. I'll give it a go with my welder, and if it doesn't cut it, I'll rent one for $35. The same guy that's giving me the turbo and sidemount has a tubular O2 housing he said I can cut up and use. Whenever I get around to doing this, I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures. I'm trying to get all the kinks I can think of worked out before I get started just so that it will go smoother. Alain do you have any pics of what your manifolds look like, and a rough estimate of price. I decided to do a T25 manifold, without an external wastegate. I can always add that later if I get something that needs it. I am going to try to modify the actuator like in that link, and route the wastegate exhaust into a dump tube off of the DP flange. Also, where is the best place to run the oil feed line from? I would guess from the oil filter since it would be the cleanest oil, but that would be like 5 feet of oil line snaked through my engine bay.

go here for some pictures
14b and t-25 is the same manifold

http://alain95i4.cjb.net

For the oil you will need to splice into your oil pressure sender on the back of the block
you will need a 3/8 NPT Tee fitting to do that

Alain

Wow, that looks great. Have you had any problems with warping? That looks to be a pretty thick flange, so I wouldn't think it would be too much of a problem. Relief cuts between the runners might help. I have a tee already in my OP hole because I have the stock OP sender hooked up, and the Autometer one. Would it hurt anything if I removed the stock OP sender and ran the line from that hole, or would I be better off moving the Autometer sender to a different location?