ok, i took the car for a ride, here is what i found. the car will boost only while i'm driving. if i have it in neutral and rev it, it will not boost, that confuses the hell out of me. when driving it boosts to 8 psi. it still doesn't idle, but if i hold it at about 1000 rpms, my vaccum is -20. i can put it to the floor and it goes fine until i hit exactly 4,000 rpms, and then it just like cuts fuel, it spits and sputters, it won't go past 4,000. the egts climb when i punch the gas, but they don' go above 1,200. and also the bov is working too. so i don't think it is a vaccum problem. any opinions will be appreciated. also, the check engine light is on. i think i might take it to autozone tomorrow and see what it is.

Read my reply in your other thread. You can't build 8 psi of boost free reving. You need to have a load on the motor to build boost, eg. driving.

agreed with^^^ from the sound of it your running really really rich. lean out ur idle and hook up either missing link black box or fcd and that should take care of ur cut issue unless you have the wrong sensor readin on the safc. the wrong sensor setting gave my bro issues with fuel cut once we figured out that stupid mistake everything was perfect.

Like the others have mentioned, it sounds like you're running quite rich.

the most i ever got was 1psi while free revving...is normal not to build boost...especially on a big turbo...

98stargs, do you remember what sensor setting was wrong? i already have the little black box installed that comes with the star kit. i was playing with the safc a little earlier and i got to idle but as soon as i pulled out and came to the next light it stalled and i couldn't get it to idle again. i don't know, i think i am just going to take it to a shop.

Here is what you need to do. Just disconnect the SAFC completely for now. I run 310cc injects with just the SFMU and the car runs great. Get a fuel pressrue gauge ASAP! You CAN'T tune without it!!!! Set your idle fuel pressure between 18-20 psi. Get the largest disk and long, silver spring inside the SFMU. Use the bleed valve on the bleed port also, this valve is optional on the SFMU, so you may have to get one from Vortech directly, or even HRC. The bleed valve lets you fine tune your boosted fuel pressure curve. Your car should run fine with these fuel pressures and SFMU setup. YOur car is dying out because you have way too much fuel at idle..AT 8 psi with the 370's, you should see around 80 psi of fuel. This is just a ballpark though. You have the SFMU fuel lines connected properly correct? YOu took out the stock fuel pressure regulator by the rear passenger tire right??? Ran a new return line? Took out the schreader valve on the fuel rail test port, and ran a line from that to the SFMU inlet? Then ran a new return line fromthe SFMU outlet to the fuel tank?

im taking it, youve installed a fcd or missing link?

DWAYNE H
1996 eclipse
under construction widebody eclipse, targa top, 19inch rollers, big brakes, 10 point custom cage, frank 2.4 hrc s20g turbo, custom marble paint job

2000 Yamaha R-1, 165rwhp 117 ftlbs tq

ALMOST THERE...... MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally posted by Thunderous_Talon
a man could build a thousand bridges, and suck one cock. he'll forever be known as a cocksucker.

Not to rub it in, but you really do need a fuel pressure gauge just to figure out where you are fuel wise. When I installed my kit, I got it started and it didn't feel right. Next day, I installed my fuel pressure gauge and the idle was 23 psi on stock injectors!!! NOT GOOD. Without the fuel pressure gauge, you are really putting yourself in a position in blowing your motor.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Originally posted by DarkOne
Dino's dating tips, in 3 easy steps:
1) Club them over the head.
2) drag them home.
3) introduce myself in the morning.

I swear everyone must have forgot how people ran Star kits with larger injectors. If you've still got the stock FPR you're running 52psi at idle. With your 370cc/min injectors you're running super rich which is why you can't idle. Do not disconnect your S-AFC unless you just don't want to ever get your car to run without redoing the fuel system completely. Contrary to what everyone is telling you, you can get it to run without a SFMU (anyone remember Wyatt, Stan's old setup, Dino's old setup, among every other Star kit user with larger injectors). The one thing that would help you would be a datalogger. But since you don't have one you can get away with it sort of. First, reset the ECU. Get rid of all the fuel trims it's learned. Next, make sure your AFC setup is correct (that's 7in and 7out). Now take your low settings for your AFC at 1000rpms and lean it out to about 40%. Though that's probably a little too much it should put it in the range that the ECU can manage. Now the rest of your settings for low throttle I would just go down 2-3% each step. Now you're high throttle stuff you need to take care of on your own. As for your fuel cut, the fuel cut defenser installed? You can't make boost free revving.

All that said. They are right about using the AFC does advance timing. That is why that you under no circumstances go over 8psi of boost with your stock bottom end and no timing retard capability. And get yourself a datalogger and a fuel pressure gauge.

He has a MAP sensor problem. Check the black box, or the AFC settings.

Originally posted by DarkOne
He has a MAP sensor problem. Check the black box, or the AFC settings.

super ditto!

doesnt sound like a fuel problem at all

DWAYNE H
1996 eclipse
under construction widebody eclipse, targa top, 19inch rollers, big brakes, 10 point custom cage, frank 2.4 hrc s20g turbo, custom marble paint job

2000 Yamaha R-1, 165rwhp 117 ftlbs tq

ALMOST THERE...... MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally posted by Thunderous_Talon
a man could build a thousand bridges, and suck one cock. he'll forever be known as a cocksucker.

get the missing link and take out the black box and that should solve your cel problems, since you said it feels like you get fuel cut under boost I bet that's part of your problem. And as other said with 30# injectors and a FMU with stock fuel pressure's your running way to rich to idle correctly. Get a Chill Factory unit or SFMU & a fuel pressure gauge and you should be set. or what he ^^^^ said about the SAFC, never used one so I'm not familiar with how to adjust it.

well, i was running the monitor settings on the safc and i don't know if it is normal or not, but in rpms it is reading about 1,000 less than what my tach reads. any ideas on this? also it is not fuel cut from boost. i hit 8 psi around 3,500 rpms. as long as i keep it below 4,000 rpms i'm fine, i can cruise at 3,900, but as soon as i get to 4,000 it cuts, but i can build boost fine in any rpm under that without cut. i will try resetting the ecu and try the safc settings ^^ said. also, with the 7/7 is that for every setting or just certain ones. if someone could post all of what they have for those in/out settings that would be great.

7/7 is the setting for the sensor range. Find out what code you are throwing. I'm with dino, map problem. Make sure you didn't tee of of the map hose for anything like a wastegate.

which is the map hose? i teed everything off of the back of the manifold.

Like I have said, take off the dang SAFC for now. Get your car running good with adjusting the fuel pressure, which is totally possible with what you have. Once you get it tuned good, then hook up the SAFC, and play around with it, to fine tune. You could have the SAFC hooked up wrong, or bad connections, improper adjustments on it, ect...more trouble than what its worth at the moment...but that's just me...do what you wish..just trying to save you some frustration for the moment..

I've ran into this same problem before(car cutting out at exactly 4K). It was a connection problem with the SAFC.....the MAP sensor wires to be exact. I would check there first......(orange and pink wires I believe, and make sure they aren't hooked up backwards).

yes ^^ i am starting to believe it is the same problem with the safc map wires. i just had my codes pulled, 2 of them, both were for the map sensor. one was too high voltage, and the other one was for range/performance. i don't know what that last one is, but i'm going to check the wires. i just might have them backwords. and for the guy above about unhooking the safc and turning down my idle pressure. i can't. i only have the fmu, not the sfmu.

also one other thing that might help, while in monitor mode, the one that says pressure stays at like -760 mmhg. it doesn't move. i don't think it is supposed to do that. is that right?

Originally posted by nosdeclipse
well, i was running the monitor settings on the safc and i don't know if it is normal or not, but in rpms it is reading about 1,000 less than what my tach reads. any ideas on this? also it is not fuel cut from boost. i hit 8 psi around 3,500 rpms. as long as i keep it below 4,000 rpms i'm fine, i can cruise at 3,900, but as soon as i get to 4,000 it cuts, but i can build boost fine in any rpm under that without cut. i will try resetting the ecu and try the safc settings ^^ said. also, with the 7/7 is that for every setting or just certain ones. if someone could post all of what they have for those in/out settings that would be great.

I've seen this before. Your AFC is set wrong. NONE OF THE OTHER SENSORS MATTER! Highlight pressure, set it to 7in/7out, and back out of it. Leave pressure highlighted. The highlighted sensor is the one it uses.

The AFC, if you've tapped the correct wire, is more accurate than your factory tach.