Okay so I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the regulator that came with my HRC package. I had my turbo kit installed by a place here in town and when it turned cold my fuel pressure started to get wierd on me. So i hooked up my fuel pressure guage to see what it was running at idle. I plug it in and when the car is running the guage says 10 PSI. So I make it so it goes to about 45 PSI at idle. I then go for a drive around the block to see what it goes to when at WOT. It then says 120PSI at WOT. I then keep driving around the block make turns couter clockwise. I then reach the end as the needle is all the way out and it still goes up to like 120PSI at WOT. What should I do? Just to make sure I was turning the right thing, I circled the needle in the picture below. Thanks in advance.

Maybe the Craptech is going bad. Call HRC and see what they say. How are your egts and a/f though?

Why is the fpr mounted all the way to the stock intake location? I wonder if that could be a factor... :shrug

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

thats a weird ass place for that FPR

Originally posted by Uberingram
thats a weird ass place for that FPR

WERD<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Can't believe I said that.

A DOPE place would be where the windshield resevoire used to be.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

The people who installed it for me put it there just for easy tuning. If I ever got an intercooler or a different regulator I would put it in a better spot but for now it doesn't really get in the way.

Has anyone ever had this happen to them with the Cartech regulator? Does anyone now how to make it go down like 30 PSI? I don't have an Air Fuel gauge or an EGT guage. Believe me it's on my list of things to get but right now it's not in the budget.

Adjust the base fuel pressure with an allen key (top of fpr, unlock the nut first:-) ) To lower the WOT fuel pressure, turn the brass knob clockwise; counterclockwise = increase WOT fuel pressure.

Yes, you are adjusting the wrong part on the Cartech.

There are two adjustments that I know of on the Cartech - the bleed valve (the brass knob that you were turning) and the Idle Pressure Screw (the allen key screw with a jam nut on top of the fuel pressure regulator).


The Idle fuel pressure is adjusted by using the Allen Key Screw. Turning this screw clockwise increases the idle pressure. Turning the screw counter-clockwise decreases the idle pressure. Idle pressure is the fuel pressure when the car is running at around 850 rpms. Unscrew the jam nut, adjust the allen key screw, and the tighten the jam nut.

The brass screw you've been turning is the boost bleed valve. The valve is used for fine tuning of the fuel pressure while the car is under boost. For example, you have 120 lbs under WOT when you only need 115 lbs. Turning this screw will allow you to bleed of the extra 5 lbs of fuel.

Hope this helps,
--Kurt

Originally posted by KTECLIPSE
Yes, you are adjusting the wrong part on the Cartech. There are two adjustments that I know of on the Cartech - the bleed valve (the brass knob that you were turning) and the Idle Pressure Screw (the allen key screw with a jam nut on top of the fuel pressure regulator). The Idle fuel pressure is adjusted by using the Allen Key Screw. Turning this screw clockwise increases the idle pressure. Turning the screw counter-clockwise decreases the idle pressure. Idle pressure is the fuel pressure when the car is running at around 850 rpms. Unscrew the jam nut, adjust the allen key screw, and the tighten the jam nut. The brass screw you've been turning is the boost bleed valve. The valve is used for fine tuning of the fuel pressure while the car is under boost. For example, you have 120 lbs under WOT when you only need 115 lbs. Turning this screw will allow you to bleed of the extra 5 lbs of fuel. Hope this helps, --Kurt

Yes I did this so my idle pressure is fine. The problem is that when the fine tuning all the way out (lean) it is still running at 120 PSI. I am a Stage 1 so I have no intercooler if I had an intercooler I wouldn't be that concerned but right now at WOT I am running like 30PSI more then what I should be. By the way at idle I am at 45 PSI.

(EDIT) Sorry this is QC DSM ESiT, my dumbass friend signed on my computer.

Turn the brass knob in (clockwise)...that should reduce your WOT fuel pressure. If after you've turned it in and it still doesn't go down, then I'd say there's something wrong with the fpr. When you have turned all the way out, you are actually setting it to max WOT fuel pressure.

Originally posted by fly1
Turn the brass knob in (clockwise)...that should reduce your WOT fuel pressure. If after you've turned it in and it still doesn't go down, then I'd say there's something wrong with the fpr. When you have turned all the way out, you are actually setting it to max WOT fuel pressure.

In the HRC manual it says to turn the brass knob out to make it more lean. That's why I need help because it's all the way out and still like 30 PSI over recomended. I think this Cartech just needs to go. Any suggestions on how to fix or what new one to buy?

The chill factory unit is the cheapest replacement. PM babybeclipse cause he is running it and I think cereal is as well.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup