Okay...tonihgt I endeavoured myself to install the S-AFC. I had it completed, but unfortunately I must have done something incorrectly. (I'm pretty good with mechanical stuff, but the electrical work always bites me in the ass!)

I had followed Wyatt's instructions to the tee, but perhaps his instructions were missing something that I should have "obviously" known. I had bought the S-AFC used, but it looks to be in good condition and it powers up well with all the options. However, the former owner was unable to produce to me the instructions.

These are, of course, the instructions I followed:

http://www.turbogs.com/vfaqs/afc_install_for_420a.htm

After turning the car on, I set all the fuel curves to 0% and changed the settings to "4 cylinder" with the throttle "Up (^)" and "pressure" type sensor. I also had the S-AFC set with "2 sensor monitors." Also had it "7 in" and "7 out."

Here's what I ran into however when I turned the car on. The car idled high at about 1500rpm's and the CE light came on and indicated the MAP sensor was "problematic" from my datalogger. (that wonderful datalogger has bought itself over multiple times!)

I have since de-powered the S-AFC and the car runs perfect again. So now, I come to my brethren in hopes of an answer in helping me venture back into the world of S-AFC tomorrow.

Any suggestions, advice, or any other thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks!

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

http://members.home.net/xtatdsm



welcome to the club :) I have been pulling my hair out for the past half a year or so and just found out that my ECU likes to have the S-AFC on all the time (yes even when the car is off) in order for it not to trip the CEL.

what code are you getting? #14?

try different settings, 6 in and 6 out seems to work good for some people. hell try all the settings (but make sure the ins and outs are the same) till you get your car to idle better, and hopefully it will get rid of CEL.

let me know how it goes.


Adel

Jason, like Adel mentioned, have you tried different pressure sensor types? My car is a 1998 and it idles well with 6 in, 6 out; it idles poorly, almost cutting off with 7 in, 7 out. Try that and keep us posted.

Fly1
1998 Eclipse GS
HRC stage 2 turbo system

I'm just jealeous that you guy s have the S-AFC.

Go here and download the Adobe manual wiring instructions and update, they may help.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17.

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. Silver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar, SS Clutch Line.

I believe the settings (6in/out 7in/out etc) have nothing to do with it. That should just be a multiplier to give you useful data from your MAP sensor. If you don't alter the signal (0%), it doesn't matter what your settings are so long as the in and out are the same.
Make sure you have the Map wires done correctly. I don't know what it would do if you had them backwards, but you might want to double check. Yellow goes to the ECU side and white to the sensor side if I remember correctly.

Matt

Changign the pressure sensor type numbers WILL affect it regardless if the setting are set to 0 or not :( it's all in the output from the afc itself. The best thing I could reccomend see how much vaccuum the afc says your car has at idle. it should be somewhere around -400 mm hg I believe. compaire the number from hte afc to a vaccuum gauge, and try to get the number to match up. It will more than likely be either 6 or 7

A.D.P.
Bring it on............

And the mosquitos are killing me.

I'm ODB1. I've got some info from murix (i think) on an OBD1 install, but i don't think it covers everything.. like which wire is the tachometer wire.

Anyone care to fill me in?

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

I had some instructions once upon a time. It has been so long I forget. Joe, Armond, care to help.

MuRiX
97 Eclipse GS HRC Stage IV+ I think
Sitting and collecting dust most of the time..
A.D.P.
http://www.murix.com

I sorta took a break from the install after unsuccessful tries before. With the S-AFC hooked up, I couldn't even keep the car idling. So naturally I took a break, as I didn't want to hurt any people nearby. ;-) I have bullet connectors throughout now, so I can quickly connect and disconnect.

I think I may try another hack at it again this week though. Otherwise, I'll send it away for another. I was able to DL the instructions through Apexi.com so that's all cool.

I'm going to go pick up a voltmeter tonight and start playing with the sensor inputs and outputs to see if everything is otherwise koscher. (per Corbin's advice)

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

Well, last night I manged to hook up my SAFC to a multimeter and see why the damn thing wouldn't let my car idle. I knew the input was cool b/c on the sensro readout screen for the MAP was at a good 4.29. However, the yellow wire output is not well. It was fluctuating badly and put out somewhere near 2.5 or so... Obviously somethign is not right here. I'm certainly not trimming my fuel anywhere and have everything set at 0%.

I think my SAFC is going to get the boot. The guy I bought it from also is not willing to take it back, giving me some caveat emptor garbage about "buyer beware." (He's right, but that doesn't make his sell to me cool) Well, I'm gonna give Apex a call and see what I can do. This does not make me very happy.

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

Hey Jason, why did the guy say he was selling it in the first place? If APEXi can't help, or won't and you take it off and think it's useless. Rather than throw it away I can take a look at it for you. I may find something that can be fixed for you... It's worth a shot if all else fails. Let us know how everything goes.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished, EGT, A/F Meter, S-AFC

I have found that overall, my digital multimeter is about the most useful tool I have ever owned.

Steve "Phrenzy" - DJPhrenzy@aol.com
'99 Eclipse GS (sport) - Barcelona Red/Tan Leather
HRC Stage 2 @ 5psi (June 19th)
HKS W1 3" cat-back
Autometer boost/GReddy EGT
Konig Verdict 17x7 - Toyo FZ4 215/45ZR17
custom system, cosmetic mods...