Sup guys... again and again, and I asking you guys how to tune my car.
I drove around my car for over 3 hours yesterday tunning my fuel system.

Current fuel system setup:
30lbs injectors, walbro 255HP, SFMU with bleed value

Current Condition:
Idle is 24PSI, static is ~34PSI, up to around ~54PSI under 5PSI boost, with a voltmeter I checked my A/F gauge reading is good.

Current Issues:
after all the fuel pressure is setup correctly, I do WOT on 2nd gear, and 3rd gear and boosting at 5PSI.
MY EGT goes up the SAME speed as I used to be running pig rich (1.015) and for now A/F gauge still reads .99-1.005 after all the tuning and fine tuned the WOT fuel pressure to ~54PSI... What do I have to do?

I saw other post about the EGR thing, do I have to disconnect it?
What's wrong with my fuel system? or .99 is good? or the rate for my EGT to get up to 800degree C in 1.5 second is correct?

Also, do I have to tune my fuel based on the boost PSI before the intercooler? like maybe 7PSI since FMIC looses 1-2PSI?

THanks all.
Gil

check out advanced tuning suieclipse has something with some base number that my help you out.

LOL , I have no idea what half those numbers mean... lol.... i guess that is b/c i have never had to deal with any of it. and the 30 lbs injector things , is that just a diff saying for like denso 660's? Could someone plz explain.

30lb injectors are like...330cc injectors? somethin like that...just another way of sayin it ;)...~wishes for a star stage 2 under the x-mas tree~:rolleyes

I swear! :shrug Yes your EGTs will always climb quickly when you do a WOT throttle run. Main concern is that do you ever pass 871*C (which is 1600*F FYI, 800*C is around 1472*F). If your not then your EGTs are just fine. As for you A/F ratio remember that a narrow band o2 isn't all that accurate. As long as you are .99 then you are fine but if you want to tune it properly stick it on a dyno with a wide band o2 (which I don't suggest ... better running rich on stock internals ... no need to tune to the fine line between rich and lean to get the most power if you're worried about the motor).

And no you don't need to tune based on pressure before the IC. You ALWAYS tune by pressure in the manifold. What the hell good is it if it isn't in your manifold. Also, that would suck ass when you don't see vacuum because you stuck your vacuum source BEFORE the throttle body. :wary

ok....but my A/F sometimes read over .99.. like 1.00x
before I added my bleed value, I have like 1.02x-1.03x...
now with bleed value..the highest I see is 1.01x or mostly high is 1.00x

Is that good?
Gil

Originally posted by gilee_8
ok....but my A/F sometimes read over .99.. like 1.00x before I added my bleed value, I have like 1.02x-1.03x... now with bleed value..the highest I see is 1.01x or mostly high is 1.00x Is that good? Gil


YES YOU ARE FINE

before the bleed valve, i;d get 1.08 sometimes, now is down to .99 or 1.02 sometimes. i am tempted to lower the wot af down BUT i don't have a built engine so i can't risk detonating.

anyway, the point is you are fine.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Sweet...Thanks guys.
So as long as I am using the stock engine, I should leave my A/F ratio higher!
Thanks.
Gil

I also believe you should tune towards the safer side, but you also don't run to run too rich for too long. Eventhough you are only running 5 psi, I think you could probably decrease your WOT fuel by a couple of psi to see if you could lower the O2 to at least .96V--although I wouldn't rely on it too much; if you're doing a long pull and your EGT's are no where near 1600 degrees, then you're probably running a bit rich. At the top of a 3rd gear pull, seeing 1525-1550 degree Fahr. is better and still safe, and conservative. Just my 2.;-)

Running on the rich side is fine... but don't tune it TOO fat or it's possible to wash the cylinder walls with fuel and risk scarring them (no oil).

ok...thanks alot!
I will just tune it a little lower then!
BTW, should I play around with the boost screw on the SFMU at the side?
Thanks.
Will that help?
Gil

I couldn't do anything to keep my EGT's from hitting 1600. Never really tried, I just end up letting off when it gets there. Its an autometer EGT probe, so who knows if it's even right.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Originally posted by Eclipse2NR
I couldn't do anything to keep my EGT's from hitting 1600. Never really tried, I just end up letting off when it gets there. Its an autometer EGT probe, so who knows if it's even right.

That's the wrong mind set. You'll blow your motor with that attitude. Just because you let off at 1600* doesn't mean you aren't running dangerously lean and detonating all the way to 1600*. Remember most blown motors are a because of cracked ring lands from detonation not because of a melted piston.

If you thing your probe is wrong then figure out why. Only time I know of autometer EGT probes being inaccurate is when people cut the wires from the probe. They are not meant to be cut because the gauge needs the proper amount of resistance to display the correct reading.