Ok you have probobly all seen my other post about what to choose. If I do go with an RS(which I probobly will) then later I want to get an HRC 2, what would I need besides the regualr FMU and missing link, to make it reliable?

If this has been answered just link me.

How about, "this has already ben answered, and i'll just use the search button." ?

maybe a flex section in the downpipe?

Originally posted by MyEclipse5
Ok you have probobly all seen my other post about what to choose. If I do go with an RS(which I probobly will) then later I want to get an HRC 2, what would I need besides the regualr FMU and missing link, to make it reliable? If this has been answered just link me.

go to "search"
then click the "advance search," select "all forums", "100 replies", and start READING

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx. your insurance will be lower and the swap will impress people. do a search. there's a thread with great info on the swap.

Originally posted by MCubed45
just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx

Oh gawd. If i do all the work to build a really tall bridge, will you jump off of it?

Anyway. Like i said earlier, just search and read. Make your own decision, don't listen to the bullshit newbies will try to feed you. There is too much of a wealth of info available here to listen to a very small collection of people in this one thread.

I did a search and found a topic on stage 1 being reliable. So stage 2 isn't much off, heck i can jsut get stage 1 then upgrade later if i want.

Originally posted by DarkOne
There is too much of a wealth of info available here to listen to a very small collection of people in this one thread.

that is so true

*sidenote*
where u been dino? welcome back man ;)



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by DarkOne There is too much of a wealth of info available here to listen to a very small collection of people in this one thread.

that is so true *sidenote* where u been dino? welcome back man ;) _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home. chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave. DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here "drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

sidenote sidenote

dino banned himself so he could get a vacation. :thumbsup

welcome back dino!

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by MCubed45 just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx

Oh gawd. If i do all the work to build a really tall bridge, will you jump off of it? Anyway. Like i said earlier, just search and read. Make your own decision, don't listen to the bullshit newbies will try to feed you. There is too much of a wealth of info available here to listen to a very small collection of people in this one thread.

I want to re emphasize this, That swap is still not complete. The car is not saily driveable and it was in the 6-7k range.

once you mod a car most of all add on turbo kit its not going to be a 'reliable' car...
Michael
99gs HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

Originally posted by MCubed45
just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx. your insurance will be lower and the swap will impress people. do a search. there's a thread with great info on the swap.

im sorry, but could you please stop breathing.

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by MCubed45 just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx. your insurance will be lower and the swap will impress people. do a search. there's a thread with great info on the swap.

im sorry, but could you please stop breathing.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by MCubed45 just buy the RS and swap in a turbo 4G63 engine from a gst/gsx

Oh gawd. If i do all the work to build a really tall bridge, will you jump off of it?

ok ok i'm sorry... :(
i'll stop confusing the newbie.. :P

I just talked to a guy who has a Hahn stage 2 and has had it for 23,000 miles with no problems, explain this to me?

different engines equal different problems. just because something works for someones elses car doesnt mean itll work for yours. im suprised no one has mentioned getting a compression test done to the nt eclipse to even see if it could handle the power in the first place. that guy also might not be boosting too much so there isnt a whole lot of stress on the engine. all depends on how much boost you are pushing, how often you actually hit boost and a ton of different factors. you cant base your cars reaction to boost on someone elses. its not a fair judgement. but to each his own i guess.

Originally posted by MyEclipse5
I just talked to a guy who has a Hahn stage 2 and has had it for 23,000 miles with no problems, explain this to me?

There's really nothing to explain. I think u have the whole idea wrong. Naturally, reliability will be lost to an extent when you start messing with your car. A turbo affects soooo many components in your car (oil, fuel, air) that it isnt SURPRISING that something could go wrong. That's all. If this dude has taken care of his car and not pushed the boost too high them why is it surprising its still strong after 23K?? its really not.

Now.... stage 1 is definitely not more reliable. Over boosting, will melt pistons and shit. Obviously if you are not even intercooled then you run the risk of having even higher temperatures. So I don't know where you read that but just CROSS-REFERENCE what you find. Never trust it just because someone said it on this site, anyone can post BS.

Get a stage 2, the S-FMU, not the FMU, and a missing link. You'll be fine with that. Just keep the boost to a max of 8 PSI daily until u rebuild.

Dude, if you can't afford to rebuild it, don't even start becuase reliability is a hit or miss thing when you do this and most of it depends on you, the installer and maintaner. Apparently you are not the most experienced with turbo systems and such so you definately want to be able to fix what you tear up. If you don't have a spare 2g's laying around for new internals, start saving.:thumbsup

"I just talked to a guy who has a Hahn stage 2 and has had it for 23,000 miles with no problems, explain this to me?"

I had my turbo kit on for about 17,000 miles about 2 years with no problems till i got low compression in one hole.
Im going to try to be nice since your new to it all. Every motor is different, every installer is different. I know people who have a 420a turbo with only 5psi and have not blown yet ( few years now ), but i have also seen 420a turbo with only 5psi blow the motor due to a small factor or many factors.
All i got to say is you better have extra cash or/and a extra car just in case something goes wrong.

Michael
99gs HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

it all depends on how much you actually take the time to make sure everything is working good. fuel system, oil, no leaks, good compression, good hg, etc etc etc. turbo kits imo are reliable as fuck, "reliable" does not mean no maintenance by any stretch, you can't persay 'install it and leave it' if anything its higher but reliable to the extent that if you put it on correctly and keep it running correctly and tuned properly on a strong engine, it will do you good. its not like im speaking out of my ass here either, i have 136,200 pluss thousand miles on my car and about 25K boosted mines on my talon at anywhere from 4-10psi and all im worried about as of last week was some lost compression in a piston, but thats ok...i planned for it and throwing in a new motor in very soon ;) it still runs fine, just a blow by problem

so imo, if its put together properly on a (at best: reconditioned motor) then you'll be fine

my opinion of what the HRC SHOULD have been:

1.) working fuel reg (vortech SFMU, chill factory SFMU)
2.) intank walkbro high flow 255 (DUH, inline is a whore.)
3.) working downpipe (chill factory 3' or something custom) anything but that clamping bullshit (thats just ridiculously ghetto imo, NOT quality by any means)
4.) 2 gauge pillar for FUEL PRESSURE AND BOOST (pain in the ASSSSS to have a 1.) a reg that changes pressures and 2.) a fp gauge thats UNDER THE HOOD, so you cant see it when you need to, no skills there) besides...the gauge HRC comes with is wrong, and plastic.

i mean, how much 'more' would that cost them in the long run....? if anything *more* people would buy the kit imo

****dont use cheap ass parts on a kit you claim is quality, imo. theyre just asking you to fuck something up****
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

so true on the hit or miss...

I just recently blew my Grand Prix engine with a 100hp shot of nitrous, i took many precautions, but fuel puddled in the intake and started a bad chain reaction, theres nothing i could have done to prevent it.

Now im scrounging up 3,000 for this 95 GS... and im gunna keep it all motor until im out of college, then turbo, when i have the money and room to pull the motor if i blow it.