HI, well i trubocharged my 420a in my avenger a few months ago. i've been having lots of problems mostly because i did a custom kit. i wish i would have spent the few extra 100 dollars and got a HRC kit.

anyways. one of the problems i've been having is that i have massive amounts of oil leaks. some at the pan others at the T in the back of the block. also at where the return line leaves and the turbo and then goes into the oil pan. i was hopoing you guys would help me come up with solutions for this.

what can i do about my oil pan problem? i was thinking about getting a crankscraper, could i just get rid of my gasket and use some silicone gasket sealler? i'll have more questions to come on this subject.

next the fuel tunning. i'm running 26psi in the fuel rail at idel. on 30# injectors with the vortec sfmu. i'm using the 2.47" disk. i'm having some problems with this also. because i really don't understand tunning at all. ryan9514 told me that i should trun down the pressure to about 21psi.

next i have some exahust leaks. i can't find a t3 flange for the exaust. it's a 3 bolt hole pattern. if anyone knows where i can get one i would like to know. thanks.


also i have a blitz tubo timer i can't evern seemt o get this to power one. not even with the harness.

next is the problem with the t3 it's brand new. internally wastegated. it opens at 10PSI!!!! this is not good i probably would like to trun this down on factory internals. some one told me i couls use a boost contoller but i don't see how i can make it oper sooner i thought all they did was bleed off boost. i ono there also. i was thinking about just keeping it as this lever of boost so i can just blow the engine and get a 2.2 or 2.0 built since it doesn't really matter if i send them a working block or a borken one. i mise well have some fun with it right?

i'm sorry i have so many problems.

just for your enjoyment i here's some pics.
http://www.pbase.com/image/22622431
http://www.pbase.com/image/22623001

i also have a spearco fmic.

i would appricate any help possible. i really need it i miss being able to drive my car on a regular basis. i just leaks to much of everything.

damn dude :) props on the install, the pics look good

as to the T barb on the back leaking. get some high temp teflon paste and coat it real nice and put it in. my t was leakin and givin me mad problems but i went to town on it and havent had any probs since. the oil drain, just pull off the clamp for the drain and slide the hose up a little more and put two small clamps on there, i had the same probs there too and this fixed it, just make sure the clamps are tight and over the little barb on the littrle metal drain deal comin off the turbo. the pan, get a new pan gasket or might as well get a cranckscraper.

hope that helps :thumbsup, PM me if u dont get what i'm talkin about


***WELCOME TO 2GNT***

i'm turbo8u (josh)
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

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chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
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is it me or does his ecu or whatever our's is called look different. There's two of them.

Originally posted by redeclipset
is it me or does his ecu or whatever our's is called look different. There's two of them.

I'm guessing 95 ECU with the 95 TCU. He's 95 Automatic.

Originally posted by redeclipset
is it me or does his ecu or whatever our's is called look different. There's two of them.

i have a 95 the ecu's are diffrent betweent the years.

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23
one of the problems i've been having is that i have massive amounts of oil leaks. some at the pan others at the T in the back of the block. also at where the return line leaves and the turbo and then goes into the oil pan.

Whoa lots of stuff here. First lets look at the T fitting. Make sure all the joints that do not have AN fittings/ends have teflon paste or tape. Definitely anything that is NPT will need one.

Next the pan. Since you have removed it oil pan there are 2 spots that need silocone sealant on the gasket between the gasket and the block. The two points would be right where the oil pump and the block meet. Make sure to put a nice bead at those 2 joints.

Now the return line. Is the leak on the hose where it connects to the oil discharge on the turbo or the fitting on the pan. On the fitting to the pan make sure it is an oring fitting. You'll need that to seal properly (unless you had a weld on fitting or something).

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23next the fuel tunning. i'm running 26psi in the fuel rail at idel. on 30# injectors with the vortec sfmu. i'm using the 2.47" disk. i'm having some problems with this also. because i really don't understand tunning at all. ryan9514 told me that i should trun down the pressure to about 21psi.

His advice sounds pretty good.

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23 next i have some exahust leaks. i can't find a t3 flange for the exaust. it's a 3 bolt hole pattern. if anyone knows where i can get one i would like to know.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm

Is it the 3-bolt flange on this page?

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23 also i have a blitz tubo timer i can't evern seemt o get this to power one. not even with the harness.

Want to post the wiring you used? I heard that some of the eclipse harnesses had some wires backwards. If you post the colors we can probably tell you what wires to go where.

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23next is the problem with the t3 it's brand new. internally wastegated. it opens at 10PSI!!!! this is not good i probably would like to trun this down on factory internals. some one told me i couls use a boost contoller but i don't see how i can make it oper sooner i thought all they did was bleed off boost. i ono there

You're right about that. A boost controller wouldn't let you lower boost past the level whatever the wg actuator is set that. What you need to do is lengthen the WG arm. That should bring the boost down.

Hope that helps you out.

thanks man, i'll post the wiring i did on that that turbo timer. it's a real mess though i didn't have insturctions and any idea where i was going with that.

nest that flange you posted it says on the website that it's a 3" is that diamitor of the hole. i know mine is like 2.5" that's what i think i have now and it leaks exhaust. i could be wrong though.

i think i will turn down the boost. how do i get a longer arm?
thanks

<anyways. one of the problems i've been having is that i have massive amounts of oil leaks. some at the pan others at the T in the back of the block. also at where the return line leaves and the turbo and then goes into the oil pan. i was hopoing you guys would help me come up with solutions for this. >

I found that using Black RTV on the threads for the oil T fitting seal that thing right up. You dont have to gob it on there, just spread an even amount on the threads, and let it SET UP over night, before you fire the motor up.

<<what can i do about my oil pan problem? i was thinking about getting a crankscraper, could i just get rid of my gasket and use some silicone gasket sealler? i'll have more questions to come on this subject.>>

Get a new oil pan gasket, and put the RTV like mentioned above. Do NOT overtighten the oil pan bolts!! This is actually what causes most of the leaking problems..

<<next the fuel tunning. i'm running 26psi in the fuel rail at idel. on 30# injectors with the vortec sfmu. i'm using the 2.47" disk. i'm having some problems with this also. because i really don't understand tunning at all. ryan9514 told me that i should trun down the pressure to about 21psi. >>

You want to run around 22 psi at idle. You def want to put in the next largest disk for the SFMU, the 2.72. You will run too lean if you use the 2.47.


Hope this helps a bit for you. Welcome to the site, and good luck :)