Sup everyone thanks for clicking on my post. I've been with this board since it started up..back when you could check posts every week. Now it's blown up thanks to Juan and others. I see old faces and lots of new ones. Here's my spiel- My SNs used to be DLPinoy707 & Eclipst81. Name's Alvin I used to live near the bay (Wyatt and Kory know wsup) I joined the Marines and I'm out here in the lovely (ahem!) 29 palms. My car, 96 Rs Star Stage I, Starion FMIC, Greddy BOV...yada, yada and all that other good stuff. I had NOS (50 shot wet) but blew the SOB due to improper install on my part) I've had the turbokit for bout a year now. I slapped on the Greddy BOV cuz w/o it it made a wierd ass noise when the boost went back...with it on it's just a piecing 'pisssuuu' Just the other day I went down to Powerhouse (some of yall know wsup) to get my Starion FMIC in. Once in my engine overheats. I know some of you have had this problem and was wondering if any of you can help me out. I can't even boost without it overheating. I don't want to take it out cuz it looks bad ass but when the temps over here in the desert reach a toasty 120 then something has gotta give. I know there's a way to hook up the radiator fan relay to the condenser fan so that it turns on both fans. I could change the coolant, add wetter..recheck the fins, but it never overheated or even tried to w/o the FMIC. Thanks for any input.

Alvin C
USMC

http://members.home.net/xtatdsm



welcome back Alvin, I heared a lot about u from Wyatt and Kory :)

your overheating problem is caused by your FMIC, I am not sure what kind of FMIC youhave but I have had this problem with my GS-T. anyway I guess you have got it all covered, just go ahead and do it. red line water wetter will help, but b4 that flush the system real good. also you will need to have the fans on more often now (you can use a switch to turn them on, or simply do the relay trick so they will both stay on all the time)

about the BOV, if you are using type S BOV, then try to readjust it, if that does not help, you know how there are 2 nipples on the BOV one on the top and smaller one on the bottom. I am sure you are using the top one hooked to a VAC source right, well you can help out the BOV to open sooner and bleed even more air by hooking the bottom one to a positive pressure source (anywhere between the turbo out-let and the TB, you would not want to hook it up to a vac line, just boost line that sees no VAC.)


Adel

Nice to see ya again Adel. I remember a long ass time ago seeing your car at the Wed. Fun Drags at Sac when I was almost stock..you are a veteran. Is there a procedure for flushing our system? Do you just drain and fill? Do you know how to hook up the fan relay mod? I've been trying to figure it out through the factory elec. manual but it's confusing. So how's Kory and Wyatt doin?

Alvin C
USMC

LAST EDITED ON 10-Jun-01 AT 07:27 PM (PST)

I would make sure your radiator doesn't have a clog in it. I dont know if regular flushing will work (it didn't for me).I had mine taken out and snaked. My car never really overheated until I put the starion in the bumper (unhooked) but once I got the radiator snaked it only gets hotter than I like when I'm behind somebody blocking my air on the highway. Speeding up and passing brings it back down. No problems on the street no matter what I do. Water wetter wont do enough to solve the problem (it only drops temps 8deg unless you use just water wetter and water which isn't recommended for street use). Dont rule out the waterpump either. With the coolant system working properly the starion shouldn't cause overheating to the point where you cant even boost. I took out my thermoastat too.



Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

ALVIN!!!

Man it's GREAT to hear ur still around kicking and smokin hondas! :}
It's been too long man! How is the marine life treating ya? Hope it aint too bad on ya and that u get to spend time wid da fam and all. When u ever come back in da bay man... don't forgot to give us a call to kick it and talk mad ish smoking H/As. hehe
My car has gone through a *few changes since the last meet... still NA and still slow haha! but it's coming all together hopefully end of the year :}

I wish you the best of luck man, take care and hope that you get ur ass back here soon! hit me up on email anytime. PAYCCCEE!!!



Oh yea... u know i be pimpin!

"RACECAR backwards is RACECAR!"

Kory
ticklemekory@cisco.com
Happy Honda Hunting!

...you forgot your other screen name - BoostnRS(similar to Martin - BoostedRS), I think it was. Anyway we will have to hook up. 29palms is about an hour from me.
Late....

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

Hey how are you? Nice new screenname semper fi. One of my good friends is an ex marine.

I'll suggest the most expensive solution. A Fluidyne radiator, suppose to cool much better than stock, so even with the intercooler blocking cool air to the radiator this should help. Add the fan trick and this should help a lot. As far as coolant, Use Dex-Cool and Water Wetter, Dex-Cool is the Orange/Red coolant, runs about 10 degrees cooler than regular coolant. That with the Water Wetter should help you out. But get a good flush done. You don't want any obstructions.

Hope the Corp is treating you well. Welcome back

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17.

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. Silver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar, SS Clutch Line.