I finnished installing my ford #42 injectors today and went for a ride. I set fuel at 15psi idle and was expecting crapy idle and got it. My static was like 35psi seemed high. I went for a boost run and boosted 10psi and only got about 60psi of fuel wtf. I rechecked my injectors and everything looked fine. And I heard them snap in place when I installed them so I think they are all flowing correctly. Now my cel 14 for map sensor came on again twice. Can the safc be causeing the cel and if so how do I fix it? Also my vaccum now sucks it is down to like13.5-14hg. And will not stay constant. I realy need some help here. Any suggestions?
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

whats the setup of the sfmu? disc and ring size? what spring? do you have the restrictor in? do you have the restrictor mod done?

you dont need an afc in my opinion.. i dont run one.

james

do you have that sensor that plugs into the map sensor... damn cant remember the name...

You've got a 96. You have a permanent code 14.

Ok James in my sfmu I have the 2.72 disk and ring with the short dark spring. If the resistor for the sfmu is the silver metal valve thing inline with the vaccum line close to the sfmu then yes I do. PowerEclipse if you mean the sensor for the map sensor as in the ML then no. I am still using the HRC fcd but have not had any problems with it. Dino what do you mean that 96=permanant code 14? Does the 96 ecu not understand the safc so it just throughs a code 14? Is there really nothing wrong? The only thing I can think of is that maybe somehow the injectors going into th e intake did not seal right. This could cause faulty spraying as in not enough fuel under boost. And also if they did not seat right this could cause a vaccum leak too right? Because the intake sees vaccum so maybe it is leaking from there. I have to run out with my cousin this morning but about noon I think I am going to try to reinsert them into the intake to see if that helps at all. You guys got any more suggestions? Also with this set up I only plan on boosting about 13psi until I get it dyno tuned. Thanks
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

I just used a scan tool and pulled a p108 map sensor voltage to high and a p1296. What is a p1296? I looked on the error codes page and all I could find was a p1297 which was a no change from map sensor when car starts. Anyone know a p1296 is the same thing. does it sound like I might need a new map sensor? Could a bad map sensor cause low vaccum and boost problems?
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

Well after a little hard work and some thinking I finally got it. I raised the idle fuel press to 30psi and leaned out on the safc like 40% at 1000rpm. The idle leveled out and the vaccum settled down to like 17hg. Me and my cousin sat down and read about and talked about the safc for like an hour and finally realy figured it out. So we went out driving to tune it. My cousins car code reader (x-ray) can also read all sorts of other sensors including real time o2 sensor volts. This made it great for tuning. We kept every 1000rpms at about .90volts to keep it a little rich. I heard that the optimal volts should be .88v is this right? Well it is all turning out great this safc is awsome when you get the hang of how to realy tune with it. :thumbsup
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

I think you went about it backwards. you should tune your idle fuel pressure to be good enough so that you don't have to do any adjustments with the safc. if you got a high map sensor voltage signal that means that your HRC "map magic box" is not working. that could be what is giving you a crappy ride.
I have 440's and i have had to set my idle fuel pressure at 11-12psi and hardly make any adjustments on the afc, just for fine tuning.

The only real adjustment that I did with the safc was at 1000rpm for idle. Every other rpm range was not hardly touched. I think I might finally break down and get the ML though.
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

You need to lower your fuel pressures at idle. 30 psi is too much for those injectors. When you turn that static screw on the SFMU, you are raising the whole fuel slope. That screw is like your fuel slope's y-intercept. If you add 5 psi of fuel at idle, you are adding 5 psi at static, 5 psi at 3 pounds of boost, 5 psi at 10 pounds of boost, and so on and so forth. I think I read that you are using the 2.72" disc.. if you are running 30 psi at idle, the rise rate of that disc is approxmately 4.6:1, therefore your fuel pressure at 10 psi of boost is about 76 (10*4.6+30). If you find that if you lower fuel pressure at idle, and are lean up top, that means your fuel slope is not steep enough, and you would need a bigger disc. I think that you are running the best disc for these injectors, but 30 psi of fuel at idle is way too much. You should only use the SAFC to compensate for things you absolutely can not control with fuel pressure alone (example needing a rise rate in between two discs, or an erratic spray pattern at idle due to excessively low fuel pressure).



1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

My bad from before I am using the 2.47" disk. The car ran like crap with the lower idle fuel pressure. I was advised that to much lower than 30psi at idle would be to low and the injectors would not spray right. That is what I think was happening when I first had them in at 15psi at idle. In 4th at full boost and wot my egt's stayed down to like 1475 so there is plenty of room for more boost in a couple of days when I get my ebc. I cant remember exactly how much fuel press. I was getting at full boost though sorry. You are right about the fuel curve because my static press. was a little high, but I cant remember the exact number right now. So with this new disk info you still think the idle press. is to high? And that I am compensating to much with the safc at idle (-40%)? It seemed to be working good the other night but if you can explain a better way I am always ready to learn! Thanks
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

My advice is to tune using your EGT gauge and your A/F gauge. Try not to get too caught up in the fuel pressure game. I did.

1475 during a long pull is quite low. I hit close to 1600 all the time, which is still safe. On an average pull in boost, I see around 1500-1525. Play with your fuel until you reach a max EGT of like 1550 or so. Also, regarding your idle problems, every injector is different. Some injectors, like mine, work fine at low fuel pressures. Some dont. I have 315cc injectors and run about 21 psi of fuel at idle just fine. You might also want to set up a bleed valve if you are running rich in boost, and cant go down to the next disc. The bleed valve will vent some boost pressure, and lower the fuel pressure according to how much you open up the valve. Search for my post about the bleed valve for easy instructions on how to make one.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana