OK..this is Fked up....
I went out today in the FREAKING snow...and I changed the spring of the SFMU from the silver to the black spring.
And the STUPID PSI still at 60PSI or if I losen the top screw TO MAX (before it fall off) then the PSI go dow nto 55PSI.

I am using stock injector and 255 fuel pump.

Please help... WHAT THE FUCK.
Gil

first of all, your sig picture is huge.

second, do you still have the OEM regulator in there somewhere?

thrid, what disk do you have in it?

forth, will the pressure go above 60? maybe the vacuum line isn't hooked up right.

fifth, is the bleed port blocked off? if not, does it have a check valve and a bleed valve attached to it?

just a few ideas.

Originally posted by ner947
first of all, your sig picture is huge. second, do you still have the OEM regulator in there somewhere? thrid, what disk do you have in it? forth, will the pressure go above 60? maybe the vacuum line isn't hooked up right. fifth, is the bleed port blocked off? if not, does it have a check valve and a bleed valve attached to it? just a few ideas.

OK..this is my forth post on this tuning SFMU thing ok.
Let me rephrase them again.
1) stock FPR is COMPLETELY DISABLED
2) stocking injectors, SFMU, Walbro 255HP (no turbo in yet)
3) biggest disk, just changed to black spring
4) vaccum line is PERFECTLY TIGHT IN (I can go above 55PSI..but 55PSI is the MINIMUN no matter which spring I use)
5) both boost screw and vaccum screw are in ALL the way.
6) I do'nt have a check valve installed to my SFMU

NOW...how can I lower my idel fuel pressure?

THanks guys.
Gil

*EDIT* BTW.. now my picture is below 90K ok.

At this point I must suggest that you run a brand new return line from the SFMU back to your tank. I know it's a bit of work, but it's worth it in the long run. I did it when I put my turbo kit on very recently. You should get a 3 foot braided stainless steel fuel line with 6AN female connections on each end. Route this down your firewall and connect to it, a length of aluminum hardline also with 6AN female connections. You can use a 6AN male to male union to connect the braided to the hardline. Route the hardline tightly underneath the car, securing it to the frame in several places. Buy a 6AN male hose barb, and attach it to the end of the aluminum hardline. Slip some rubber hose on the barb, and run it up to your fuel pump assembly. There are two barbs on the pump assembly, one of them is feed from the pump, the other just dips into the fuel tank as a return. Hook up your rubber line to this and secure it to the barb on the assembly. I am not sure how much aluminum hardline this requires, and I didn't measure mine. It has to make it from the firewall to near the tank. You can always use a little more rubber fuel line if you come up a bit short.

This is a surefire method to make sure you have no obstructions. You can use fairly large diameter lines to ensure plenty of flow. Here's a pic of my fuel lines...



1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

OK guys.
Let me ask you one thing...PLEASE ANSEWR OK.

WHERE does the fuel pump should connect to?
I mean at WHICH section of the fuel line hose should it TEE out to the fuel gauge?

Thanks.
Gil

Your fuel pressure gauge can be connected anywhere BEFORE the SFMU. The closer to the fuel rail, the better. My FP gauge comes directly off the fuel rail. The billet high flow fuel rail motofool hooked me up with has a dedicated port for a gauge. Good stuff.

By the way, if you do decide to replace your return line, definitely do the feed line. It would be stupid not to.

EDIT: Heres a pic of my rail and gauge...




1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Thanks.

With the car off, unplug the vacuum line. Note your fuel pressure (static). Plug the vacuum line back in. Note the fuel pressure again(idle pressure). Is it the same? I had a very similar problem to the one you're having with not being able to lower fuel pressure below 60 psi with the screw all the way out, and it turned out to be my SFMU not seeing vacuum correctly.

well..is 5PSI enough?
I mean when i have the vaccum on.. 55PSI (can I can make it higher with the screw but not less.)

When I unplug the vaccum line, it goes up to 60PSI from 55PSI..

so is that 5PSI consider as changes?
GIl

I think 5psi fuel pressure change would be correct IF you're seeing 10 inches of vaccuum at idle. The SFMU should behave like a 1:1 regulator when you're not boosting - so for every 2 inches(1 psig) of vaccuum the fuel pressure should drop by 1 psi.

I'm not sure what the problem is, but can you try rerouting the return to a bucket. A blockage or kink in the return line could prevent the SFMU from lowering the fuel pressure. If you dump the SFMU return outlet straight to a bucket and the fuel pressure goes down - that means that the return line has a kink, is somehow blocked, or is not big enough.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.901 @ 88.34mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

^^^^^^^
Jim's the man!
you should try what he is suggesting with the return/bucket.

sorry I didn't catch this post earlier. I have been working my ass off.