Walboro 255lph HI PRES - $89.00 Ebay
Vortec SFMU/Totally replace stock fpr - ~$200 - Ebay or anywhere
Get a T-3 Garett Turbo - $50-$100 - Junk Yard
T3 Turbo Manifold - $20.00 - Hook up
Apex'i Turbo Timer/Digital A/F gauge - $100
EGT Gauge - Autometer 2 5/8 - $118.00 - Ebay
Boost Gauge - Autometer $40.00 - Ebay
Dual Gauge Pod - $20 - Ebay
Oil line Kit - $80.00
1g Bov - less $30.00 - Ebay
Air charge Piping from compressor to TB - $20.00 - Not Alluminum
BOV Flange/etc. - $20
Miscellaneous - Extra/Replace Broken Fittings/Clamps - $8.00
Total ~$750

I am a 1995 Rs and am under the impression that I already have a Fuel return line. I will be running stock injectors. And Non intercooled. Just some sort of rubber hose or soemthing running from my compressor outlet to my intake manifold with a bov in between. If anyone knows where I can get an alluminum piping for a STAGE 1 please let me know. Some of the parts I might make myself, like the bov flange. I'm a college kid on a budget :) what do you guys think of this? should I add a cheap ass DIY catchcan too? i will be boosting 5 psi. Does anyone know of any other stage1 bovs that sound better than the 1g?
tia.

you should get a missing link or a voltage clamp of some sort for your MAP sensor too...other then that not looking too bad.:thumbsup

edit*

shoot your 95...I don't think you need that...nevermind:+

The 1G bov sounds bad ass compared to the others on the market. In fact I think it sounds better than the greddy type s or r or whatever most 4g63 guys put on thiers.

really? thats tight! can anyone get a sound clip for me runnin 5-6 psi? and btw, yeah! i don't need the missing link. but I'm not sure about the fuel return line. Does the 95 come with a return line??????? and if so how big is the line. I sorta need to know.

EDIT: I'll finally get outa my dorm, off my computer, stop researching. and go do some hands on research! I'll go look and try to find my stock fpr and see if i can follow any lines from that back to my fuel tank.

YOu've got a return line.:thumbsup

here's a thread from just last week on how to do the set up;-)

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=8&topic_id=58744&mesg_id=58744&page=2

AWESOME! and yeah i forgot something fairly critical...unles i want a really loud car.

I need a T3 Downpipe. How much does the star cost? i heard the star kit doesn't come with a flex section. how much am i lookin for parts? someone on here just made a 2.5" custom setup. wonder how much that costs? i have a friend that is an excellent welder and i am pretty decent. plus my dad owns a hardware store so i'll just get my oil line kit from there as well as any fuel line or aircharge pipes, and possibly down pipe parts :7

As far as fabbing the DP goes, you should check run4cvrs post about his just about 6 links down on this page. Shit man, I'll bump it for you. :P

It loked nice as hell. John has inspired me to fab up a custom header back sans cat in the near future. Probably one of the best benefits to being a college student is you can keep your out of state license plate and bypass emissions, so no cat = no harm = no foul = legal in an illegal kind of way. :P

Originally posted by DR1665
As far as fabbing the DP goes, you should check run4cvrs post about his just about 6 links down on this page. Shit man, I'll bump it for you. :P It loked nice as hell. John has inspired me to fab up a custom header back sans cat in the near future. Probably one of the best benefits to being a college student is you can keep your out of state license plate and bypass emissions, so no cat = no harm = no foul = legal in an illegal kind of way. :P

yeah, i've read that post, copied the pic and am finding out how hard it would be to do that for my T3....anyone have a pic of an internally gated t3 dp?

GotTude T3 Downpipe with Flex Section (note that this downpipe didn't fit at all really, I'm just showing you for reference).










1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

you should re-evaluate you costs on misc. parts.
you could easily run up a tab of over $100 on fittings for you to connect your sfmu, oil lines to your turbo (my "KIT" didn't even come close), tees and vacuum lines and assorted tools (depending on how well you are set up).

Originally posted by WIKKI
you should re-evaluate you costs on misc. parts. you could easily run up a tab of over $100 on fittings for you to connect your sfmu, oil lines to your turbo (my "KIT" didn't even come close), tees and vacuum lines and assorted tools (depending on how well you are set up).

I have included 80 bucks JUST for the oil line. I know i can get those parts WAY CHEAPER! My dad owns a hardware store that is a truevalue retailer. I work there and i can get everything for cost. it wouldn<'t even be close to 80 bucks for the oil line. and shipping would be free cuz it would just come with the true value truck that comes to our store every thursday. and as far as fittings for the sfmu, i don't need a return line. so i'm under the assumption i just need fittings/hoses to go from the existing 95 style fuel rail with the fpr on it, to my sfmu, from my sfmu to my existing return line. personally, i can't imagine that being very hard or expensive. all of you 95's let me know what you had to get to connect the sfmu and how much it cost you to purchase all of the parts. btw, thanks for the t3 dp pics. does that thing account for an internal WG?[br />
and as far as tools, i know a guy that does is the best mechanic i know. he does work on tractors, all sorts of farm equipment and has a truck full of tools and a shop full of them. he is probably better equiped to do automotive work than any shop besides for a lift. and i know he'll lemme borrow any tool i want for nothing.

The downpipe would be the same, regardless of whether the turbo has an internal wastegate, or an external. The external wastegates simply mount to the manifold. Nothing to do with the downpipe. Oh by the way, this is definitely off topic, but I figured I tell you all. I just got some Scosche (sp?) brand positive battery terminal from Meijer (local superstore), and it doesn't fit the positive battery terminal on my Optima Red top battery. Just a heads up, not that anyone will probably need the info or anything.

Good luck with the turbo kit. Having just turbocharged my car with a kit that had no instructions or anything, I know a lot about them now. For your oil feed line, you need this funny brass piece that screws into the back of your engine block, at the oil sender. Mine wouldn't fit, so I needed a couple extensions. But like you said, you work at a hardware store so its no biggie. Here's a pic of the oil line stuff.








Good luck!



1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

start pricing AN fittings. the best prices that I got was from Jegs. you need to get -4an (do 95's use the test port on the rail?) to -6an into the sfmu, and probably a fitting for a fuel guage. I don't think hardware stores carry AN fittings.

BTW, I'm not badgering you. I just want you to be aware of the hidden costs that I ran into with my kit.

this is my list from jegs.

The following items were purchased:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 555-100520
Description = Jeg's Fuel Pressure Gauge Fittings
-6 AN Union
Qty/Price = 1 at $8.69 = $8.69
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 555-100526
Description = Jeg's Fuel Pressure Gauge Fittings
-6 AN Male to -6 AN Female
Qty/Price = 1 at $10.99 = $10.99
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 555-100321
Description = Jeg's Swivel Couplers
-4 AN Swivel Coupler
Qty/Price = 1 at $7.99 = $7.99
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 023-FCM3474
Description = Aeroquip O-Rings
AN Size: -06 D Size=.468 E Size=.078 (10/pkg)
Qty/Price = 1 at $7.69 = $7.69
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 555-100211
Description = Jeg's Flare Union Fittings
-4 AN to -6 AN Flare Reducer
Qty/Price = 1 at $4.69 = $4.69
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Item# = 555-100202
Description = Jeg's Flare Union Fittings
-6 AN Flare Union
Qty/Price = 1 at $3.99 = $3.99
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Summary of Charges:
SUBTOTAL = $44.04
HANDLING = $8.99
Ground Delivery Charge = No Charge!
TOTAL = $53.03


If you have any questions about your order, please contact Customer Care at 1-800-345-4545.

Thank you and have a nice day!

I did purchase more than I needed, but I didn't want to get stranded.

thats really awesome. And yes, we do have some pipe fittings in stock. and we can special order just about anything plumbing/hardware related. free shipping of course ;)

thanks a lot. if anyone has anything to add, please do so. i might make some sort of, "cheap as fark turbo kit" writeup ;) or atleast a good 95 fuel setup howto.who knows. and as far as the wastegate, does the waste gate dump to the atmousphere? i though the wastegate gasses went back into the dp thru a dump tube or somethin.

Wikki..some of that stuff from summit sounds kinda pricey...idunno though...I found a couple of speed shops that carry AN fittings and just bought the stuff I need there...the convenience was unbeatable so I didn't much care about the price.

420AYE internal WG's dump into the DP, they just open a little "flapper" (for lack of a better word) so that the exhaust gases don't flow over the turbine....as much. Some people dump their external WG's out to the atmosphere but I routed mine back to the DP so it stays nice and quiet.

For the oil line.. i just ran a hard brake line and bent it to work.. i think it was like $10 with the fittings..

-- WheatKing

Originally posted by WheatKing
For the oil line.. i just ran a hard brake line and bent it to work.. i think it was like $10 with the fittings.. -- WheatKing

kewl!

The legendary wheatking with the stocker mani. you still rollin around with that thing?

The T3 is a great choice for a custom 420A turbo setup. Check for Saab, Volvo, and Ford turbos at the junkyard. Some 86-88 Ford Thunderbirds came with dual T3 turbos. I think they have a .63 A/R on the hot side and .60 on the cold side... using standard Garrett wheels. .48 hot and .42 cold would be a good size for a 420A with stock internals and low boost setting. Look to early-90s Saabs for those.

Make sure the rubber hose you use in your fuel system is FUEL INJECTION HOSE. If you use cheap general-fluid hose, you'll have problems in a hurry.

Don't clamp an oil drain hose to an AN fitting like picture above! For less than an AN fitting, you should be able to get a hose barb that will fit correctly. When welding the fitting into the oilpan, be very careful... this should be done by an expert welder. Our oil pan is made of some sort of composite material (far from REAL weld-able metals).

The 1G BOV is a great performing valve. It sounds nice too! I use it in my custom setup. You can get a weld-on flange on eBay for cheap. I'm not sure how you've weld the flange, though, since you're not going to use aluminum intake pipes.

Good luck 420AYE... if you have any questions, shoot me a PM.

thanks. but as far as not using alum intake pipes. I'm still not sure. Maybe i'll go get an ebay short ram for the moment, and then cut it off striaght at the end by the turbo and do something with it...
i'll just try shiat.

As for using fuel injection hose, I found this to be an unnecesary expendature. Everyone told me traditional fuel line would be fine, and I am using it with no problems. Fuel injection hose is 5 dollars a foot, whereas the regular fuel line is only a dollar a foot or so. You shouldn't need much anyway, so it's preference really. As for you being able to get AN fittings from your vendors, I highly doubt it. AN fittings are not used in plumbing or construction ever. They stand for Army-Navy and were developed for and used in aeronautical applications. I looked everywhere for AN fittings and finally found them at a place called Earl's. It's a division of Holley. This place sells all kinds of awesome stuff for fuel delivery. Braided lines and such. Definitely have your oil return flange welded into your pan, and test the pan by filling it will colored water. I didn't test mine and the weld leaked, even though it looked absolutely perfect. Now the pan is on the car and leaking from a pinhole. I ain't taking it back off... gaskets are 25 bucks.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Originally posted by Eclipse2NR
As for using fuel injection hose, I found this to be an unnecesary expendature. Everyone told me traditional fuel line would be fine, and I am using it with no problems. Fuel injection hose is 5 dollars a foot, whereas the regular fuel line is only a dollar a foot or so. You shouldn't need much anyway, so it's preference really. As for you being able to get AN fittings from your vendors, I highly doubt it. AN fittings are not used in plumbing or construction ever. They stand for Army-Navy and were developed for and used in aeronautical applications. I looked everywhere for AN fittings and finally found them at a place called Earl's. It's a division of Holley. This place sells all kinds of awesome stuff for fuel delivery. Braided lines and such. Definitely have your oil return flange welded into your pan, and test the pan by filling it will colored water. I didn't test mine and the weld leaked, even though it looked absolutely perfect. Now the pan is on the car and leaking from a pinhole. I ain't taking it back off... gaskets are 25 bucks. 1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/ Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

oh, ok. thanks for the headsup and the definition. never really knew that, i just thought it was some type of fitting. i guess its a name brand or specification i guess. cool. i'll bump this again with results this summer. thx guys! i think i have all the info i need. i'll compile this if i have time and someone can host it. a little faq for custom turbo kits :)

Originally posted by WheatKing
For the oil line.. i just ran a hard brake line and bent it to work.. i think it was like $10 with the fittings.. -- WheatKing

How does this line hold up to the vibrations of the car and do you have some pics we could look at? Thanks:thumbsup

http://www.asog.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album04&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1

Lotsa 1G parts in use here..

1g bov and the pipe for it.. 1G intake piping (has ports to connect for constant vacuum source.. good for things like PCV and EGR..)

The metal line going under the intake pipeing is the oil line.. i forget it was like 1/8" or 3.16" or something like that with a spring around it .. then i used a union to connect to the stock banjo fitting for the oil line into the turbo.. the line moves with the engine.. so no worries there.. dunno why hahn uses a flex line other than it's pretty braided stainless hose..

Eventually i got a talon SMIC on there too.. but it's not in these pictures.

Coolant lines are shown too.. just cut out a piece of pipe.. used some "t" fittings (think they were 5/8").

Also.. as far as the fuel injection hose.. DONT USE NORMAL HOSE.. if you do your a moron.. normal fuel hose is only rated to about 30psi.. it's for carb'd systems not for fuel injection.. normal fuel injection hose is rated for about 110psi.. so if your using normal fuel hose and it bursts (it will..just a matter of time), don't expect me to lend you a shoulder to cry on when your car is reduced to a pile of ashes on the side of the road some night.

-- WheatKing

Originally posted by 420AYE
i don't need the missing link.

Just curious on why you dont need the Missing Link? Arent you still utilizing the MAP sensor or are you using the Fuel Defender instead of the Missing Link or just a better MAP sensor? Also did I read that your going to use rubber hose for your pressure side from turbo to TB? A section of aluminum pipe 2 1/2 od is only $25 for like 16 inches. Also what are you using for your Exhaust Manifold? All I saw was T3 exhaust manifold. JG precision does have a nice set up along with whatever flange you need.

I did my custom kit and after all said and done I spent almost $1600 $2000 if you want to count the wideband O2 and readout. Good luck let me know what troubles you run into. Im still tuning mine daily.

Originally posted by RicecarRST

Originally posted by 420AYE i don't need the missing link.

Just curious on why you dont need the Missing Link? Arent you still utilizing the MAP sensor or are you using the Fuel Defender instead of the Missing Link or just a better MAP sensor? Also did I read that your going to use rubber hose for your pressure side from turbo to TB? A section of aluminum pipe 2 1/2 od is only $25 for like 16 inches. Also what are you using for your Exhaust Manifold? All I saw was T3 exhaust manifold. JG precision does have a nice set up along with whatever flange you need. I did my custom kit and after all said and done I spent almost $1600 $2000 if you want to count the wideband O2 and readout. Good luck let me know what troubles you run into. Im still tuning mine daily.

I don't need the ms or fcd because of some ecu thing. my OBDI ecu doesn't care or something. alls i know is i don't need it. if your a 95 u don't need it either. and for ic piping, i'll probably just get some allum unless i have to pay more than 20-30 bucks. shortrams are really cheap and i can just cut the bend off the end. I'm using the star manifold for the t3....i got it for free, not tellin who because he has no more. thx again man btw!!!!!!!!!