damn i feel like a newbie asking this....but anyways, im planning on doing my turbo project in the winter....originally i was only planning on only doing 5psi on stock internals....well at the dsm meet a couple days ago i drove in a gsx and almost wet my pants.... so i got to thinking that i might want to do a rebuild... i have a spare block with a broken crankshaft.... my question is, what is all needed to safely run 10-15psi (just internally).... id be doing the work myself and wondering how much im looking at....ive done a search, but still confused....thanks
doug

bump....any info?

Rebuilt bottom end...you know that. :wary

Forged internals...etc. (that's it, besides the fuel and clutch)

yeah.... i was just wondering what companies everyone reccomends, what parts i exactly need, what psi is safe with what parts, etc.....

Go with FTY. All you need to do is send that spare block you have and you tell them what much boost your aiming for. And they'll do the work for you.

yeah...but im trying to keep it under a grand....i can do the work myself, im just not sure on what parts i need for what psi.... does anyone have a list for the different psi ranges?....and what is the melling oil pump all about.... how neccesary is that....thanks
doug

bump....any price quotes?

Grab a used Howell kit off the forsale section or ebay. You can usually find a kit for under $1k and build it yourself.

thats what im hoping to find..... im still new to this..this will be the first rebuild..... what are the completely neccesary parts, suggested parts, how many psi with what compression..... things like that..... i also have a broken crankshaft in my other engine....would it be a big deal if i bought a used one, or should i deffinately get a new one.... also, do you think it did any damage when the crankshaft broke, to the block or anything? it wasnt my car, so i dont know what happened..... i have tons of questions...thanks in advance for these ones
doug

ok ive been searching on ebay....i still dont have a list of exactly what parts i need.....but let me know if these will work and if the prices are good...thanks alot!!

rods- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33623&item=2437534523

pistons/rods- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33623&item=2438416637

thats all thats on there right now.....i really would like to figure all this out, i hate to ask, but is there a write up on doing a rebuild?

I'm sure you realize you need to upgrade your fuel system as well. How much boost you want to run is more dependent on whether or not you have a fuel setup that can handle what your aiming to run, and less about engine internals.

Anyway, here's a list of things you'll want for your engine.

Rods - Eagle, Crower, or Pauter. Eagles are the cheapest (you can find them for 350), Pauters are the most expensive (about 800).

Pistons - pretty much everyone runs Wiseco's (about 450) You can also get JE's.

Rings - most brands are about the same (about 100)

ARP Head Studs.

MLS headgasket, or just a whole HG rebuild kit (depending on how many miles you have on yours)

UDP - If you don't already, during a rebuild is great time to slap one on

An 8.5:1 compression ratio is a good start, and a compression test on the cylinders at 180 is a good reading.

The engine itself doesn't need much to run strong - that's why are cars adapt well to turbos. An engine built correctly like the one mentioned above will hold 15-20lbs of boost easy. You need make informed decisions on you will do that with fuel - primarily injectors. I'd toss in a ClutchMasters clutch while your at it and even a limited slip diff.

sorry to steal the post jus wanna get one question from yall cuz im basicly looking for the same questions and answers your asking yo... is a rebuilt head as necessary as the block is? for running 15 to 20 psi? would save me 15 hundred.. thanx

Originally posted by ghostESiKY
sorry to steal the post jus wanna get one question from yall cuz im basicly looking for the same questions and answers your asking yo... is a rebuilt head as necessary as the block is? for running 15 to 20 psi? would save me 15 hundred.. thanx

No, the stock valvetrain and head is fine, assuming it's in nominal condition. Cam's, upgraded valvetrain, PnP'd head would certainly help, but is hardly necessary.

thanks for the help, and i was wondering that question also...... ok, so all i need is rods, pistons, and rings....and of course any gaskets along the way..... are the rings anything special, or just oem..... right now i bought a warlbro 255 fuel pump....i was only planning on running 5psi at the time, but if i get 30# injectors, they should be good for 12-15 right?.... ok now back to the crank....like i explained i have a spare block that had a broken crankshaft..do you think it hurt the block at all when it broke, nothings scarred, just snapped i think.... another question, do i have to buy a new crank, or would it make no difference if i buy a used one...... damn im excited to do this..

How the hell did you break a crank!?

I have a set of used JE's w/ eagle rods I am selling out of my old motor. They are .20 over bore. You should have your block bored before you buy pistons just to be sure. A shop may need to bore more if your cylenders are scored up and then you would need larger pistons. I want like ~$450 for the pistons and rods and I will be pulling them this weekend and posting them in the for sale section. If you want them let me know and ill just sell them to you. :thumbsup

Also you should use a new oil pump when you do the block just to be sure. Its a bitch to change if it goes bad!

If I were you I would jump on this guys ^^^^ pistions and rods. That's not a bad deal. And, as said above, you don't need to do the head, but how many miles do you have on your car?? Our HG do not have a good reputation, and like the oil pump, while you have the engine out and all apart now is a good time to put in a MLS HG.

You won't be able to use stock ring landings. Get total ring seal (that's a brand BTW)

I would just buy a used crank. If it doesn't look messed up your probably ok. You might want to consider putting up some pics and giving some people on here a chance to look at it.

Have fun with your rebuild.:love

yeah ill definitely be interested in those!!....how many miles have they been used for... im not sure how the broke the crank actually, i bought the car that way and put a new engine in it... now im just planning on rebuilding the entire engine.... lets see, ill be doing a headgasket since the head is off the block right now, ill have the head shaved....do i need the melling oil pump, or would a oem be fine.... ummm, around how much is it to get your block bored out to the .2, then what kind of pistons rings should i be looking for...who has the best price..... ok, lets see, what else do i need to take into consideration when doing this.... any body thats done this before that can tell me what tools ill definitely need and what problems they've had....im going to need a lot of guidance through this, but i think its something i can handle....thanks for the advice and ill be in touch with you^^^

i can get a crankshaft with around 140k on it for pretty cheap.... does anyone think this many miles is going to hurt anything if its not scored in any way.....

bump

ok....here are some specific questions.... i pulled the oil pump out of the old block i have....its deffinitely in the need of replacement...its kinda scored up, and there was metal shavings in it... now i have some specific questions...first of all, if anyone can tell me generally the way to do a rebuild id appreciate it.... im not completely sure on the plastigauge check....what exactly does that tell you.... when you buy bearings, are there certain sizes, or are they all the same.... also, if i bought the .2 overbore pistons, are their certain rings that i need, certain sizes, how do i determine these....would ones from a local autoparts store work.... whats the difference of the melling oil pump to the stocker.... any other specific things i should look out for.....thanks
doug

bump

damn you have a lot of question. haha. i'd be asking the same questions as you, that's why i'm reading this. somebody help this man out. by the way, for anyone who cares. if you have read the whole thread then you'll notice how lickscissors has a motor with a broken crank and he said that he put a new motor in it. The car that he put the new motor in is my car. he sold it to me for $2800 with 70k miles on it. he's a good man:thumbsup :cheers

thanks man.... and guess what, another bump...

ok, i got some of these questions answered, but here are a couple more.... i can get the block with the crank with 130,000 miles.... now if i were to do a rebuild, what do you think would be the general size bearings for the crank...would i most likely just need stock ones, or oversized.... how many people have done a rebuild that failed, what were the causes...how can i make this process a success....thanks, hopefully someone will respond
doug

I also have a set of used wiesco pistons and brand new eagle rods with clevite bearings. Id like 600 shipped the wiesco pistons are starndard bore btw.

i've been also doing rebuild research a while back so here are some answers. it is generally better to have an over-sized bore since you want the cylinders to be PERFECT (0.2)!!! if it at stock bore, there maybe the slightest imperfections that will cause you problems but its generallly better when doing a rebuild that you go with over sized pistons, and i've heard that its not a lot to have the cylinders bored to a desired size.

as far as having a bad rebuild, i think it depends on who does it. the mechanic/machinist who does a bad job will screw up the rebuild. like matt95gs (i think that's him), his block from howell wasn't sealed so it leak like a bitch. it wasn't his fault, it was the builder!. so just make sure you get quality by paying for what your getting.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

:+ :) :-) x( :-( :( ;-) ;) :o :D }( ;( :P :9 :* :nono :rolleyes :wary :thumbsdown :thumbsup :7 :love :bowdown :shrug :cheers :puke

uhhh, i was planning on doing the rebuild myself....thats why im asking so many questions....i want to do it right the first time
doug

So you plan on boring out the cylinders yourself? That takes extremely expensive equipment and years of training to do perfectly. I hope thats not what you mean...

1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

no, im going to have it proffesionally bored if needed, but im planning on installing the pistons, rods, crank, all that stuff myself.....

now just how jacked up is that crank? I wouldn't even use that block if the crank is busted, thats like half the bottom end busted there. That crank is hard to break also.

anyway for 10-15 psi you definately will need some stronger pistons. maybe strengthen you stock rods and maybe you can get away with that but I would just get some eagle rods just to be safe, nothing crappier than throwing a rod.

you'll need:
timing belt
tensioner
idler pulleys
bearings, main and rod
some of that goofy metal to metal gasket sealer (anaerobic gasket maker)
Gasket kit

brrr i think thats most of it O_o

ok i knew all that....im not using that block or crank...the crank was actually broken after the #1 piston.... im just going to rebuild the engine in the car....i am planning on getting new pistons and rods.... what i was trying to ask was:
what are some common reasons for rebuild failures...like 10k miles after rebuild, it messes up....id like to avoid those

what are some of the hardest things...measuring everything and keeping it clean i would guess

just some general info on how to ACTUALLY do the rebuild...thanks again
doug