ok. i had this info before but i lost it. to let my alarm arm the car while the tt idles the car do i remove the ignition wire from the alarm and tap it into the acc wire? or was it the other way around? also what color wires the is the ignition and acc wires for our 420a eclipse?
thanks
Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

ok so i found some other post about my topic. so if i remember correct remove whatever wire from my alarm that is tap to the ignition stock wire ( black wire with white strip )and move that wire from the alarm to my acc stock wire?
thanks
Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

i want to know this to!

That sounds right, that way your car will think its off when the TT is holding the voltage on ign 1 to keep the car running. ACC is on when the car is on so its virtually the same thing. when your TT is timing it gives ign1 voltage so the motor keeps running but ACC is off because the key is out and your alarm would think the car is off. Some people that have done this also had a problem with the car setting off the shock sensors because its running so you may have to turn down the sensitivity.

yea, youre right. its from the ign to the blue/white wire (acc).

i can arm my alarm, but if i dont turn my shock sensors way down, it trips the alarm during idle. i have motor mount inserts, so i dont know if that vibration contributes, but its annoying none the less.

use a relay to temporarily bypass the shock sensor as long as the TT is running. unless your alarm has a built in shunt sensor thing. then you just have the TT ground that and the alarm won't worry 'bout the vibrations til after the TT is disarmed. should still monitor the doors an stuff though.

main things when getting to get a TT to work with an alarm:
bypass shock sensor
bypass ignition sensor

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix TypeX CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Nakayama GT5 17's
Ractive STB
GSX Calipers
AEM 12.5" X-Drilled/Slotted Rotors

255 is fricken short

what about a TT that still keeps acc. on while counting down?

the other downside to that method of switching the ign wire to the acc is that your starter kill won't work the way it should. most alarm usually have a relay that bypasses the starter wire as long as the alarm is armed. if the ign wire is given power while armed the alarm will go off. if someone is hotwiring your car they will need to give the ign wire power. now your alarm only see the acc. wire. when they connect the ign wire to power nothing happens with the alarm. then they connect the starter wire and start it up. of course even if the wire's connected where it should be they could still just cut the wire to the alarm or cut the alarm wires all together, but it's just one more safety measure that you're bypassing. kinda defeats the whole point of getting an alarm if you disable all it's safety features...

the correct way to do this would to put a relay inline with the alarm's ignition sensor wire. set it up using the normally closed pins (30 and 87a). then use an output from the TT to activate the relay. this way as long as the TT is running the alarm will 'see' that the ignition is off even though it isn't. when the TT is done the relay deactivates and the ign sensor returns to normal operation and will trip the alarm if it is given power while the alarm is armed.

making sure your turbo cools won't make a differnce if your car gets jacked.

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix TypeX CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Nakayama GT5 17's
Ractive STB
GSX Calipers
AEM 12.5" X-Drilled/Slotted Rotors

255 is fricken short

well the shop used a dei relay and wire hook up for turbo cars. so all is good. plus i got two jacks besides the alarm. :)
Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32