Like the subect says, whats the best electronic boost controler for the money? I need to pick one up soon, they are all around $300. I really cant spend $300 on one...

http://www.machv.com/blitspecsboo.html

i have this boost controller. i like it a lot. very good for the price.

Mach V is notorious for overpricing things.

here. found this in the first 20 seconds of poking around ebay for electronic boost controllers. $300. perfect.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432099983&category=33742

hey ner.. no offense bud, but he said he can't spend 300 bux but yet you give him nothing but 300+ ones..

hehe errr.. game over try again ;)

James

LOL... wow. i wasn't paying attention at all. seems to be the theme for me tonight. i'm a choad.

watcha think?
I know it's not electrical, but for the money, I couldn't resist.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33742&item=2429837812

Cockpit adjustable manual boost controllers are a good IDEA, but using long sections of vac/pressure hose is a bad idea for crucial components such as a boost controller. EBCs are expensive... expect to spend at least $200. TurboXS make nice MBCs that are attractively priced.

Anyone use the TurboXS dual stage manual boost controller? The one that has a incar switch to select between 2 boost settings?? I think its around 240 bucks, and prob is the next best thing from a electronic one.. I always hear nothing but good about the Profec-B too, but thats def not under 300..You get what you pay for..you prob wont get anything decent for an electronic boost controll for under that really...unless you find one used of course

has anyone ever tried to make their own electronic boost controller from scratch? i mean, it can't be THAT complicated. hell, you don't even really NEED a pressure signal going to the EVC. it probably just creates a square wave that drives an electronic valve that opens and closes at a set duty cycle... right?

^ thats exactly how they work

take a reading from the vac signal input and then modify it by changing the duty cycle on the output.

Looks like im going to have to reach for my wallet on this one.. I have a MBC I made myself that works great. Also I have a 12v normally closed electronic solenoid valve laying around here. I guess i could use it to bypass the MCB therefore giving me 2 boost settings.

man, these EVC's are bullshit! i could design a circuit that does that using a 555 timer in about 15 minutes. 555 timer, capacitors, resistors, wiring, a driver transistor, and a board would cost like $20 to produce TOPS. it would have an on-off switch to switch between wastegate setting and whatever the duty cycle is for the EVC, and a variable resistor to change the bias on the 555 timer which would change the total duty cycle. i could even add that popular motorola pressure sensor and use a voltage comparator like the one i used for my open looper thingy to function as a warning circut. i don't know about the eletronic valve though. i bet that's the expensive part, but they can't be that much. guessing like $25-30 each tops? shit. i could make an open-source DIY-EVC and sell them for like $100 assembled or just give people the plans to build one on their own. it would be a good way to make some cash...

I picked up a Blitz SSBC used for $120. Hi and Lo boost settings, easy to install. There are probably a few floating around out there on Ebay.

I was actually pondering making an DIY EBC this morning (trying to find a home for spare comparators). I'd suggest using the motorola pressure sensor, comparator, continuous duty cycle solenoid valve, and something to drive the solenoid at varying duty cycles. You need the controller to power up the solenoid when the car is on, blocking the wastegate signal. So, if the controller dyes, the boost pressure will revert back to whatever the wastegate is set at. As you spool up, the solenoid stays closed until you get close to the boost level set with the pressure sensor and comparator. When it gets close to the proper boost, it will start cycling the the solenoid valve open and closed. As you get closer to the proper boost, it will increase its duty cycle. As soon as you reach the proper boost level, it will cycle at the proper speed to maintain that boost. As you let off the gas, the duty cycle will decrease, trying to maintain the boost level. Continue to let off the gas and the solenoid will eventually close...ready for the next run. I had to rebuild a Profec-B and tested in my "lab", err room. This is pretty much how the Profec works.

From what I've seen, the pressure sensor is about $22 and proper solenoids are $60+ from Newark Electronics. You could probably cut the price down some if you used standard automotive solenoids.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

didnt have the turboxs dual stage, but i made my own dual stage using a turboxs mbc and a vacuum solenoid from a 300zx (DSM OR Chrysler soleniods are easier to get and work just the same)






(btw, i have a profec b now...the DIY dual stage worked great, i just got a really good deal on the profec)

yeah ^ thats what i was thinking. I would be nice to keep the boost down in 1st at the track, then kick it into high once I get traction. I was thinking I could use the cruse control switch on the wheel to switch it, that way i dont take my hands off the wheel.

Dude design one! people will buy it! i know i would. Will the 555 operate at high speed like that? to the point where it could control a duty cycle. The only thing i have ever done with a 555 is make a led blink, heh.

I have the TurboXS dual stage. So far I definately like it. Can switch between the two stages on the fly, and it's really easy to adjust the different boost settings, you just use an alan wrench to turn the screw. Of course, it's the first BC that I've ever had, so I don't have a lot to compare it to.