Yes I am now a proud member of the turbo 2GNT (haha sounds goofy) club. It took me 4 days on and off working it (stupid work). It looks so easy the way the manual explains it but there are a lot of steps left out. Like drain the oil b4 you take out the pan (commonsense). Heres soome of the hardships I'm having and maybe you guys can give some input:

The downpipe fits extremely tight, (also see #4)

the turbo is tilted a little to the right on the manifold,

I broke my oil pressure sensor when I was putting it back on (fixed it with Epoxy but I don't know for how long),

the downpipe touches the oil pan and rattles,

the BOV flange was in a horrible place that makes it so the battery doesn't fit (had to cut the intake pipe and rotate it then use hoseclamps),

I have a Star Stage one kit and it came with a Wastegate that had a 7 sticker on it (7 PSI maybe?)

There's a goofy sequence in how your suppose to put the bolts back on for the manifold but I didn't follow directions

The tube that connects right at the compressor touches the hood

That Airtex pump is really really noisy

The manual really SUX :P

Here's some of the good stuff:

Managed to make a cold air intake for the turbo out of my old intake pipe.

The car has no lag (my uncles tells me) and really kicks in at 4k

The car has a muscle like tune when I floow it (dump pipe I think)

Turbo spoolin! :)

It looks cool!

My car is fast!

Got to use my old HKS intake again!

I have one question for y'all. What do you connect to the BOV? I have a HKS standard BOV. I can't hear it at all also. RU suppose to tigten all the way or leave it loose, I notice it has a spring on it? oh yeah how do you guys get your boost gauge into your car? Do you use that little grommet that goes out to the lower passenger side through the firewall or is there somewhere else?

PICTURES COMING SOON! :P


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | Performance Muffler | Cold Air Intake | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | STAR PERFORMANCE STAGE 1 TURBO KIT WITH T3/T04E CERAMIC BALL BEARING TURBO | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |

Make a little cut with a blade in your steering column boot on the firewall to run your boost gauge vacuum line. Did you remember to re-gap your plugs to .035? You can no longer use anything less than 92octane petro. And when I first turbocharged.. It helped a lot to use that Mopar cumbustion chamber cleaner.

Whoa thanx. I'm still running my NA plugs one range hotter than stock. I have them gapped at .05 right now. I've gotta go get some colder plugs when I have the time. I'm gonna go easy on the car for now. Is 7 PSI ok for a non intercooled 2GNT? I know that vacuum hose goes somewhere behind the TB from the BOV just don't know where.

Hell no 7 is way to high. Keep it at 5psi.

DAVE_FL
97GS
AEM CAI
AFX PULLEY
AFX solid motor mount
Magnaflow exhaust
Sparkco 9mm wires
Eibach Pro Kit
tokico shocks
Altezzas
A Badass sound system
Indiglows,neons,and all that good stuff...hehe
BOOSTING SOON!!!!!

don't worry about the oil presure unit. All it does is turn on the warning light on the dash. Just get an oil presure gauge. Can't you losen the bolts on the turbo and level it out and then re-tighten the bolts. To get the boost gauge through just drill a hole through the fire wall (if you can't use the steering boot) you need it for other tings later like SAFC and other gauges.

I believe the & on the wastegate means it has a 7lb spring...which I have on my wastegate to and i'm only boosting 5psi. If you put in a 9lb spring it will be 7psi. I think thats right, if anyone knows different please let us know.

Yo!
Congrats! I was going to reply to your e-mails but figured I might as well answer them here

>The downpipe fits extremely tight, (also
>see #4)

They do fit tight, but shouldn't hit the ol pan. I would suggest putting flex section in anyway and when the muffler shop does that, they shoul dbe able to give you some more clearance for your oil pan
>
>the turbo is tilted a little
>to the right on the
>manifold,
>
That the way they all are, Not sure why they are designed that way but they all look like that

>I broke my oil pressure sensor
>when I was putting it
>back on (fixed it with
>Epoxy but I don't know
>for how long),

Shouldn't be to much of a problem, the oil sensor puts out an output of oil or no oil. so as long as you don't have an oil light you should be ok
>
>the downpipe touches the oil pan
>and rattles,
>
>the BOV flange was in a
>horrible place that makes it
>so the battery doesn't fit
>(had to cut the intake
>pipe and rotate it then
>use hoseclamps),

Yes, they are in a wierd possition, but it should fit with the stock battery. I've done a couple of them and it seems to work fine. If its to far off Send it back to me and I'll make you up another one with the BOV in a possition like Stan's


>I have a Star Stage one
>kit and it came with
>a Wastegate that had a
>7 sticker on it (7
>PSI maybe?)

Yeah, it works out to 5psi @ the manifold
>
>There's a goofy sequence in how
>your suppose to put the
>bolts back on for the
>manifold but I didn't follow
>directions
>
Yeah, do whateever works, its a pain int he ass. I always end up putting the stud nut on first, the the second one from the left on the bottom, then al lthe others

>The tube that connects right at
>the compressor touches the hood

That shouldn't do that, see if you can't rotate the compressor housing farthur down.
>
>
>That Airtex pump is really really
>noisy

Comes with the territory :) huge amounts of fuel will do that to you.

>
>The manual really SUX :P
>
Yes it does, but you got through it!
>
>Here's some of the good stuff:
>
>
>Managed to make a cold air
>intake for the turbo out
>of my old intake pipe.
>
>
>The car has no lag (my
>uncles tells me) and really
>kicks in at 4k
>
>The car has a muscle like
>tune when I floow it
>(dump pipe I think)
>
>Turbo spoolin! :)
>
>It looks cool!
>
>My car is fast!
>
>Got to use my old HKS
>intake again!
>
>I have one question for y'all.
> What do you connect
>to the BOV? I
>have a HKS standard BOV.
> I can't hear it
>at all also. RU
>suppose to tigten all the
>way or leave it loose,
>I notice it has a
>spring on it? oh
>yeah how do you guys
>get your boost gauge into
>your car? Do you
>use that little grommet that
>goes out to the lower
>passenger side through the firewall
>or is there somewhere else?
>

Tighten it down completly, sometimes the HKS STD BOV is hard to hear, specially with the open atm wastegate!

>
>PICTURES COMING SOON! :P
>
>
>95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
>AFX Pulley | Performance Muffler |
>Cold Air Intake | KYB
>AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers
>| FU, RU, RL, and
>RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars |
>RS to TSi Rear Disc
>Mod | RS to TSi
>upgraded F&R Sway Bar |
>97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke
>Wheels | STAR PERFORMANCE STAGE
>1 TURBO KIT WITH T3/T04E
>CERAMIC BALL BEARING TURBO |
>and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr!
>|


Wyatt Leras
http://www.turbogs.com
98 Eclipse GS Star Stage 5,000 Turbo kit

>The downpipe fits extremely tight, (also
>see #4)

Had no problem there on mine. check the clearance with the drain tube 1rst. Its not close to anything else.

>the turbo is tilted a little
>to the right on the
>manifold,

Probably done to keep the turbine housing and downpipe from under the top radiator hose line and frying it. Otherwise it have to come with a sleeve for the hose like the Hahn kits.
>
>I broke my oil pressure sensor
>when I was putting it
>back on (fixed it with
>Epoxy but I don't know
>for how long),

Me too I broke it taking it out the 2nd time after not following the sequence. I never did fix mine. Its connected and tie wrapped so the light doesn't come on. I put a brass fitting in its place for now. I will fix it.

>
>the downpipe touches the oil pan
>and rattles,

Mine touched the drain line and rattled (I wasn't real accurate drilling where I marked for clearance). I used a torch and crow bar to bend the drain pipe a few mm. fixed the problem permenantly.
>
>the BOV flange was in a
>horrible place that makes it
>so the battery doesn't fit
>(had to cut the intake
>pipe and rotate it then
>use hoseclamps),

I've seen stage one pipes unmodified but damn if I didn't try and try. I cut mine and rotated down too then relocated the BOV flange. I swear they made it that way just to make the install hard, there's plenty of room to make it fit easily. See pic


>I have a Star Stage one
>kit and it came with
>a Wastegate that had a
>7 sticker on it (7
>PSI maybe?)

Mine boosted to 6psi but I think due to the numerous other modifications of the intake and exhaust tract. The wastegate is adjustable a few psi. you could check and make sure its at the lowest position. Also are you actually boosting 7psi or just assuming because of the sticker. I bet your not actually boosting to 7.

>There's a goofy sequence in how
>your suppose to put the
>bolts back on for the
>manifold but I didn't follow
>directions

Why not?

>The tube that connects right at
>the compressor touches the hood

Mine too but no harm done.

>The manual really SUX :P

I thought it did prior to the install but its actually quite addequate. I'm the type that would not read a novel and start skipping over it its too detailed. Good thing the pump has its own instructions as does the wastegate.


>The car has no lag (my
>uncles tells me) and really
>kicks in at 4k

Oh I have lag (I think). anything below 3500rpm I have to wait a few moments to get any power worth mentioning although looking at my boost gauge I get boost starting to come on at under 3000rpms. Hell I'll wait to have an intercooler hoooked up before really conplaining. I'm sure the hot intake pipe aint helping anything. Interesting thing I learned about BB turbos. they dont actually make boost come on any earlier, only the turbine AR ratio can determine that but they make the turbo spool much faster once boost comes on. Just thought I'd throw that in there

>I have one question for y'all.
> What do you connect
>to the BOV?

Just the one vacuum port. Tee it to where you tee the boost gauge or FMU

>I
>have a HKS standard BOV.
> I can't hear it
>at all also. RU
>suppose to tigten all the
>way or leave it loose,
>I notice it has a
>spring on it?

Tight. I hear mine loud and clear (well its not the explosion I've heard from loud BOV but I and people I drive by can hear it)
The only time I cant hear it is at high rpm full throttle shifts. Just cruising I hear it good when I shift.

oh
>yeah how do you guys
>get your boost gauge into
>your car? Do you
>use that little grommet that
>goes out to the lower
>passenger side through the firewall
>or is there somewhere else?

You could do that but I cut a whole in the steering boot reluctantly but at the advice of others. worked good. used a hanger to feed it through and removed the battery to get to it. Luckily I did that about a month before I did the turbo.

Happy boosting. and for God sake lose the 5 range spark plugs and .05" gap IMMEDIATELY. 6 range NKG are available everywhere and gapping is free. 7 range are damn near immossible to find without getting on the phone. I just went ahead and got 22 range Denso irridium (7 range NGK equivant). They work great.





Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Well I hooked up the boost gauge and the BOV vacuum line today. I like the WHOOOSH sound hehe. That SPI boost gauge is kinda weak, it works but the scale is too large. I'm only running 5 PSI (yeah that's as high as it hit so you guyz were right) and it goes all the way up to 30. I'll be running 30 PSI in my dreams! :P
Is it ok if I use the stock NGK spark plugs and gap em to .035? Just wondering because I still have my stock heat range ones, the 6's I believe and they're practically brand new.

Next stop: Starion FMIC, heavy duty oil cooler, autometer bezel gauge cluster, A/F gauge, and a Oil Pressure Gauge.

What's a better oil cooler Hayden or Permacool? Basically I want one with the tiniest sandwich adaptor so the oil filter doesn't stick out all the way. What about that B&M?

Here's the engine bay

Here's my HKS filter (does this thing work better than those K&N filters?)

LAST EDITED ON 29-May-01 AT 02:59 AM (PST)

Nice. the 6 range NGKs should be fine for 5psi (what I used at first). Also I'd think about an EGT gauge instead of the oil pressure gauge (one to talk. I need one too). I dont know about the oil coolers. Hopefully it stays cool enough on its own. I think we're on to something with the stage 1 intake pipe.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Well got to play with it more today. I start boosting at 2500 RPM and and reach full boost (5psi) at 4000. Sometimes at 2k it goes to like .5 psi - 1. Is this close to what you guys with stage one kits get?

LAST EDITED ON 30-May-01 AT 04:50 AM (PST)

I dont start boosting quite that low but I do believe I hit full boost by 4000rpms. Once I hit 3500rpm it shoots straight to full boost.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Hmm interesting. On strange occasion like on hill climbs it starts boosting at 2k like at 1 psi or something. But yeah I hit full boost at 4k. Hmm wonder why I get full boost there and not at 3500. Must be exhuast setups. Do you have a catback exhuast?


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | Performance Muffler | HKS Air Filter | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | Star Stage 1 T3/T04E BB Turbo Kit | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |