i would like to know the ways you all have tried to when checking the torque on head studs? i plan to check the torque at 3,000miles about. i dont want to remove alot of crap just to check the torque. if you can list the process and exact tools to do this.
thanks

Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

Top row: 12mm ratcheting wrench, tighten with two fingers until they turn blue.
Bottom, outside corners: Torque wrench with 8" extension.
Bottom, hidden studs: Chopped-off 12mm openended, tighten until face turns blue.

I have to do this weekly since my HRC mani has already been decked twice and continues to warp :(

I use blue loctite threadlock on the head-side of the studs, nothing on the mani side since they're (supposed to be) copper lockwashers)

Usually have to replace a stripped nut or helicoil a stripped head hole every month or two. pita.

thedawg, you already stripped the thread on the head side? the to bottom corner threading stripped on me. i don't know how. right now i have a 10mm stud replacing the 8mm. i also use the blue locktite and it's been working excellant!

Sounds like it's time for a new HRC mani.



1999 Anniversary Edition
HRC Stage II w/FMIC

"The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifegaurd"

It just occoured to me you might be talking about HEAD studs, as in the ARP stud kit for bolting the head to the block.

If so, follow the ARP specs that came in the box exactly. You'll need to remove the cams, timing belt, and all that to get to them... probably not something you want to do unless your head gasket is leaking. The factory torque spec is not applicable to ARP studs, but calls for a specific sequence of tightening, and then at the end 1/4 turn, whatever that's about. Check your chiltons or factory manual for torque sequence and specs on the head bolts.

dan, yah the 'head studs' arp kinds. not the exhaust studs. i just wanted to see if there was a 'easier' way to check the torque numbers on the arp head studs without removing all that junk ( timing belt etc )
anyone else?
Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

I believe the cams block most all of the bolts. I would say try a "crows foot" type tool. Its like the end of a wrench that you can put a socket extention and a socket onto. Its good for getting around stuff, like tightening the fuel line on the test port for an early model fuel setup. Only problem is I don't know if they make 12 point ones, I have only seen 6 point ones.

>dan, yah the 'head studs' arp kinds. not the exhaust studs. i
>just wanted to see if there was a 'easier' way to check the
>torque numbers on the arp head studs without removing all that
>junk ( timing belt etc )
>anyone else?

Michael, no need to remove anything BUT the valve cover and coil to tighten or check the ARP head studs. I didn this after 1,000 miles or so and they wouldn't budge on my car. But it takes all of 10 minutes to remove the coil and the valve cover to access the head studs. It's pretty simple to get at. The camshafts are there, but they give just enough clearance to get your ratchet extension past them to get to the studs.

yeah, what Jason said. no need to take out the cams to torque the headstuds. i checked mine at 3k after ALL rebuilds, and they would never budge. Better safe than sorry though.

1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

what type of brand name ratchet extension and size, sockets, and torque wrench did you all use? just want to make sure when i hit 3,000miles they are still at the same number. right now i got a little over 1,600miles.
thanks
Michael
99gs
HRC Stage IV 8-Injector Setup
2GNT Member #32

I used a craftsman 13 mm 12 point deep socket and a snap-on click torque wrench.

I've never re-torqued my ARP's. I went to 70 ft lbs instead of 65, hoping that if they stretch a bit, it will be very close to 65 ft lbs. But from the looks of it, the ARP's stay right where you put em anyway. Re-torquing is never a bad idea though..