Well, I need to know where and what fittings you guys got to install your SFMU. Mine just has the two blue fittings in the regulator itself. I sold the ones from the HRC kit with the cartech. I looked at Lowes and found nothing that would fit. Also, I need some sort of tee because I have a fuel pressure gauge permanetly hooked up. One end needs to accept the stainless steel braided hose going to my gauge(same as oil feed line). Thanks guys, this thing is confusing as hell with no instructions!!

the fitting on the rail is -4an the SFMU fittings are -6an

and your fuel guage is 1/8npt

http://www.paragonperformance.com/Fuel%20Gauge%20Adapters.html

there is a link for a fuel guage adaptor...

Bill

HEHE

i was in your situation two weeks ago (scroll a page or two back). anyway, go to the mods page, and look for the last two links. they are for the sfmu. the last one is for late fuel system eclipse. there is a shopping list, it pretty much everything you need and it helped me out sooo frigging mch (thanks whodatt for the writeup by the way). also you probably won't find the AN fittings at autozone or LOWES cause performance shops carry these. prepare for an ass raping in price though. total for me was 230 for all the ss lines, AN fittings, tees, etc.......


-------jezreel

Is there anywhere that would have these besides a performance shop? Guessing it will have to be ordered from Summit/Jegs then. But how do we get the barbed fittings to hook the rubber lines onto?

yeah I put up the write up so that people would not have to go through what I had to.
Like was said the fittings on the sfmu are -6an and the test port on the stock rail is -4an. You will need to buy #4 s/s hose and -4an hose ends and then a -6an to -4an reducer to mate the s/s line to the sfmu ports.
the An fitting are special fuel fittings and you will not be able to find them just anywhere.. You can call Aeroquip (www.aeroquip.com) and have them give you the fittings or you can ask and see if they have a re-seller near you. another shop where you will be able to get everything you need is pegasus auto racing (www.pegasusautoracing.com) the have a wide line of fittings and different size s/s lines.
to mate the s/s line to a regular fuel hose you can use a hose barb with a -4an fitting on the other end to mate it to the #4 s/s hose fitting. That is how my system is set up..
if you have any questions feel free to email me or just post them I'll try and help yah out.

Sorry to jack but is the SFMU model# VOR-6X100-001 the one we get? Does that universal kit have all we need? Is Summit Racing at $279.95, the best price new? TIA


http://www.cardomain.com/id/jasvbts2k2
"The ONLY Honda I'd mod would be ASIMO"

>Sorry to jack but is the SFMU model# VOR-6X100-001 the one
>we get? Does that universal kit have all we need? Is Summit
>Racing at $279.95, the best price new? TIA

yeah summit racing is the best proce i've seen, and where most have gotten theirs, and the adapter kit does not have the fittings you need, so don't get it.

I kept the tee that was on the Cartech FMU since the fuel line screwed right onto it. Now we have no tee or anything. We need to go off of the S-FMU and hook into the 2 rubber hoses. Can I get barbed fittings to just screw onto the fittings on the S-FMU? We do not want to put any stainless lines on it. So we should just put the feed line for FP gauge onto the service port then? I know it can be done like that, didn't even cross my mind though since we had a tee already off the old FMU. Let me know ASAP and the fastest palce to get these at. This is holding us up!:-(

look for a barb fitting that will have a -6an fitting on the other end. www.pegasusautoracing.com will have the fittings you are looking for.

Well, got the fitting thing down now thanks to your help. Got another question though, it's about the 3 ports on the SFMU(boost/bleed/vaccum). There is nothing in the boost port, a brass screw in the bleed port, and what looks like a flat head screw fairly deep in the vaccum port. Is that normal? Just asking this because I got my SFMU second hand and wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Also, does it matter which way the resritor goes into the vaccum line? Thanks guys!........about to finally have this beast on the road again. Shes been sitting for 8 months now. Just waiting on these fittings and my passenger side axle to come in!

>Well, got the fitting thing down now thanks to your help. Got
>another question though, it's about the 3 ports on the
>SFMU(boost/bleed/vaccum). There is nothing in the boost port,
>a brass screw in the bleed port, and what looks like a flat
>head screw fairly deep in the vaccum port. Is that normal?

There should be either an allen head shaped screw or a slotted screw in the boost port. The screw should have a very tiny hole in the center of it, to let air exscape. Behind this screw, should be a small white plastic check ball, and behind the ball a spring. If its not there, you NEED to get one, OR, plug off that port with a proper thread size screw. If this port is left opened up, then the SFMU will stop raisng fuel pressure to a certain point REGARDLESS of boost pressure..


>Just asking this because I got my SFMU second hand and wanted
>to make sure I wasn't missing something. Also, does it matter
>which way the resritor goes into the vaccum line?

Nope, doesnt matter at all..

What is the purpose of that boost screw? What I'm getting at is, should I just plug it or get the screw and stuff from vortech and why? Thanks for the help Matt :)

>What is the purpose of that boost screw? What I'm getting at
>is, should I just plug it or get the screw and stuff from
>vortech and why? Thanks for the help Matt :)

I really dont know why that port is even there really, as there is no good use for it, at least not for us anyway. Basically, you can turn that adjustment screw out, and this will set an upper limit for fuel pressure, regardless of increased boost pressure. So lets say you run 10 psi of boost, and your fuel pressure is 80 psi. If you open up that boost screw a bit, and run 12 psi, the fuel pressure will remain at 80 psi. Thats def not good. Since we dont want that, and will never need to adjust it, just cap it off to make it easy. I havent looked at it, but the cap screw on the bleed port may screw right into the boost port, cant say for sure though..I know one of those ports are larger than the other. Then just get the bleed valve to screw into the bleed port. You will prob want to use the bleed valve anyway, makes for very nice fine tuning of boosted fuel pressures.