I know where to tap into for the return line... where do i tap into for the feed??

From the oil pressure sending unit on the back side of the block.

>From the oil pressure sending unit on the back side of the
>block.

yup, you'll have to T it off for a new line

Have fun becuase for me that was the worst part of the entire install.

and for the return, you have to tap into the oil pan

>>From the oil pressure sending unit on the back side of the
>>block.
>
>yup, you'll have to T it off for a new line
>
>Have fun becuase for me that was the worst part of the entire
>install.
>

Absolutely the worst part, I have big hands, took over two hours to do that, drove me nuts, last part to put on before cranking lol.

pain in the ASS , u must make sure this part is on good or you will leak oil and the downpipe is right below so it will smoke like a bitch. easiest way to do it is take the fitting screw in the sending unit and adpeter for the oil line (not oil line itself) take a 22mm wrench (i believe? maybe its 19, somethin like that) and screw that ALL the way into the block then then screw on the oil line

MUCH easier that way IMO (speakin from experience)

p.s- its the plug on the back of the block closest to the driver side, the other one is the knock sensor.

I spent a good few hours on it, got it done then quit for the rest of the day. Threw some wrenches, cursed up a storm, drank some beers a nd promptly went to the strip club.

I have to agree as well. This was the worst part of the install. I actually stripped the threads on the fitting that the steel braided line screws onto at the block, so I had to find a local shop that had another one. I ended up buying one with a 45 degree angle and it was much easier to screw the braided line on.

run4cvr actually broke the t off while it was in the block!

he finally managed to unthread what was left and remove it

*whew*

>run4cvr actually broke the t off while it was in the block!
>
>he finally managed to unthread what was left and remove it
>
>*whew*


Oh grand *shakes in his pants*... Scarry! and I was worried about the super afc..

>>run4cvr actually broke the t off while it was in the block!
>>
>>he finally managed to unthread what was left and remove it
>>
>>*whew*
>
>
>Oh grand *shakes in his pants*... Scarry! and I was worried
>about the super afc..

Yeah, glad i wasnt there for that or id have a 12 wrench jammed in my forhead.

>Yeah, glad i wasnt there for that or id have a 12 wrench
>jammed in my forhead.
>

Actually it was a 7/8 open end wrench that fell and split my lip open. It hurt so bad i head butted the crossmember.

The way i finally got mine to quit leaking was to assemble it piece by piece, using a shitload of teflon paste.

i have question along the same lines. I have an oil pres. sending unit that I already installed in the place you guys are describing for the feed (yes it was a bitch, If I want to keep the autometer oil pressure gauge, how can I feed the turbo. If I remove the factory sensor from the wiring harness that will give me that free end of the "T" but wont I get a CEL? I dont really need the idiot light to warn me about low oil pressure, the gauge tells me all I need to know.

I had to get another T from NAPA for my oil pressure gauge. I ended up taking it off because i think the extra wieght and length contributed to mine fitting snapping off in the block.

>I had to get another T from NAPA for my oil pressure gauge. I
>ended up taking it off because i think the extra wieght and
>length contributed to mine fitting snapping off in the block.



Crazy... I really don't look forward to this part of the install.

is there enough room to run 2 "T"s in line, like one after the other? If I remember there was hardly enough clearance after the "T" for the oem sender. Do they make a cross fitting that would have 2 ports on it?