Did I blow my engine or a gasket??

I went with my friends to the races...well they all were pressering my into raising the boost, so I could beat this GS-T who was talking all this shit about my car. Well I really didn't want to but I did...to 9-10psi, because it's suppose to be ok every once and a while...right?? Well, I made one run and everything was fine. Then I made a second run about 15-20mins later and after that run, I hear this knocking sound on the right side of the engine. Every thing was ok too...I had plenty of fuel and my boost stayed at 10psi. Then my oil light comes on...but turns off right away. Then a little bit later...it blinks for a couple of seconds and turns off again.

Well I open my hood and my breather sprayed a lot of oil all over my engine. So I took it off, so my engine could breath. I checked my plug wires and no oil in the hole. I drive home with it this way. It ran fine all the way home, but this sound was bad, I know it. Then when I was almost home...my check engine light comes on, and stayed on the rest of the way home. Maybe for about 8min.

It sounds like a chug sound on the bottom right side of the engine. Well today I check my oil and it's almost completely empty. PLEASE help me...I feel sick to my stomach. I keep trying to tell myself it's just a car, but I can't get this feeling to go away. Does the engine make a chug sound on the right side when you blow a gasket??? Or did I blow my engine???? What if I add oil...will that fix that sound. It sounds fine when I start it and it runs fine...it's just that chuging sound that is REALLY bothering me!! It sounds like a really old engine. And it idel's fine also.

I'm sorry this is so long, but I REALLY need you guys...I feel helpless. Thank you





Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

You blew your motor.
ie. rings/rod or piston failure
Sorry. :(





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http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

LAST EDITED ON 13-May-01 AT 12:17 PM (PST)

Saw your post in general so I came here. I'd first do a compression test to see if the top end is any good. If your compression is okay and your still hearing noise you may have spun a bearing once the oil got low (before or during the races). I would suspect a bearing because of the low oil, oil pressure light and noise (plus its pretty common to spin em). Then again oil all over the engine from the breather doesn't sound too encouraging either. Let us know how it turns out. First describe the noise in a little more detail before we jump to conclusions ans any other symptoms that STILL remain. Really I think you've blown it too because of the oil all over the engine and check engine lights ect. Those aren't symptoms of a spun bearing.



Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

No I think I know that sound, is it a clunking sound, liek a raaaaa raaaaa(roll tougne)at a few certain RPM K and then go awa?? if so I bet you spun a bearings on the crank, That's what mine sounded like, Do a compression test, Sory to hear about that...

Shant 98 turbo Avenger

I thought our motors could handle 9-10 PSI with stage 2 FMIC? What's the max u can run with stock internals? I was planning on 8. Would it blow?

Well it depends.....the T3/4 flows a bit more air than the 16G does, even at the same boost level. 10psi on an HRC kit is not the same as 10psi on the Star kit. I don't really know if it matters all that much, but it seems to make sense that if the HRC kit has been said to be safe at 10psi in stage 2 format, then the Star might be safer with less? anyone have any numbers to back this up?

It just seems that the Star kit seems to be causing more problems than the HRC kit. (yes, I know 95% of them are user error, but that doesn't mean that the HRC kit can't have the same types of errors)

I'm not trying at all to knock the Star kit....I just wonder why there are so many more engine problems with them over the HRC.


-Jeff
Now BOOSTED! HRC Super 16G

http://gs.dsmpower.com

Shant...ya it's like a raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa sound, but it doesn't stop. And it happens from idle to 3,000. Well I didn't go over 3,000 with it sounding like that so I don't know if it stops there. But I think it does stop there, or at least get quieter. Whats worse...blown motor...or bearing???

How much $$$ do you guys think I'm looking at here?? My friend told me to take out the turbo and stuff, and bring it into Mitsubishi and have them to warrenty work on it. What do you guys think I should do??

Thank You for all your help!!



Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

It is realy all the same as far as $$ wise goes. A rebuild would be in order no matter if it was a bearing or a ring or a rod/piston. Do not run the car anymore until you get it looked at, cause you could damage the block if not already. You could try the removal of the turbo and take it to the dealer. Its worth a try!
Good luck.
SEE YA!!!!!!!!!!!MWC






http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

LAST EDITED ON 13-May-01 AT 02:41 PM (PST)

sorry double post

sorry man u smoked bottom bearing on your crank

i did the same thing last year.

oil pump died and boom there she goes

pull up to a light and idle the oil light would come on
drive away and light goes off.
engine light came on after sittin for a few days and me starting it back up.

It has nothing to do wiht the turbo just stupid oil pump!

drop the oil pan and move your rods up and down and look for play
mine was the furthest from the timing belt that went

Dont drive it alot mine rubbed so much they had to rechrome the crank to machine it to fit on there!!

as well had to change pistons and rods on 2 so i went all oout and bored the sucker and went all new pistons and rings from Je and Crower


Any other Questions drop me an email

Keith

That is right I think. The star is bigger or there is something different. May be the BB? HRC doesn't use BB option. U can run about 10 PSI b/c it won't push as hard as the star kit. I don't wanna start an argument, but I think I am definitely getting HRC 100% sure. I have been seeing a lot of posts about the star kits fucking shit up. And maybe it's not that bad, but I am all new with the whole turbo scene, so I know I need Turbo for idiots( HRC) they have tech support.

Good luck getting your car fixed tho.

I thought 5 psi of boost is 5 psi of boost regardless if you have a 16G or a T3\T4e BB or any other turbo????? The only difference between the 2 is the response time and how much power they can hold. If that's the case, then what would 5 psi of boost in a ball bearing T3\T4e comparable to??? I'm getting the star stage 1 kit with the e-trim, BB option , and the fuel cut defencer and I'm planning to boost only 5-6 psi. Don't want to be boostin that much when in reality, I'm actually to 12 psi. Then again, that's what the boost gauge is for. Damn, sorry to hear that happened to your ride 99GSBBTurbo. It's a mighty sweet looking one too and hope you get it fixed soon.

Go ahead and think you cant blow sh*t up with an HRC kit. The problem is star recommends 5psi on stage 1 and 7psi on stage 2. Now everybody listens when HRC says you can run 8-10lbs on stage two but nobody listens when star says run 5-7lbs on stage two (probably because they figure 10lbs is 10lbs and HRC users are running 10lbs). Now go run 3 extra lbs of boost on the HRC with stock bottom end and see what happens. There is not a turbo kit out that somebody hasn't managed to blow an engine on. I have pistons and rings and I dont think for a minute that I cant blow my sh*t any day I go around the block. Now certain sh*t happens for a reason: When was the last time you heard of anybody blowing up either kit installed properly at the recommended boost level. Almost never. The blow up story always starts or ends with a boost spike or a day of racing at 15psi. All basic kits run the same (turbo+regulator+fuel pump). Unless those parts fail (which is never the case) the fault is either pushing the kit past the fuel limits or the engine past its strengh levels (or fualty engine). Shant and Mario didn't have Star kits.

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Thank you stan! I have a star kit, and i have been incredibly stupid with it lately, spiking almost 14 PSI at the track last week. I still ain't blown anything up either. ran an 18.2 on that run too...just kinda coasted down the track. One concern why the star kit might have a slight higer rate of disaster...an external wastegate you can adjust. The other reason, move that stupid FMU to the front. Other than that, it has nothing to do with the star turbo being bigger. All that means is that it can flow a higher max CFM. 10 PSI of boost in the manifold is 10 PSI of boost in the manifold. It doesn't matter what turbo it is coming from, unless it is something incredibly small like a T-25, in which case it might be 300 degrees of 10 PSI. However, with both turbos being a relatively decent sized turbos, and both stage II kits having an intercooler that is rather efficient, there should not be a difference in the 10 PSI of boost. Star's fuel system could use some more work, but all in all, i have ran 10 PSI on race gas, and seen no problems with it leaning out.

99GSBBTurbo...sorry about your luck man...i felt pretty sick to my stomach tonight when i smashed my front end on a dead deer in the middle of route 30. I put like 30 hours into repairing it over the winter after the dude who had it before me hit a ground hog doing 130 mph. Ohh well though, nothing you can do about it.



jason
95 GS Turbo

I still think there's a BIG DIFFERENCE in having two fuel pumps with HRC and one fuel pump with the STAR system. I also think there's a need for more fuel with the STAR system.

Either way, you mess with fire when you start upping that boost. And remember, Shant upp'ed his boost (as he's reminded people not to do many times).

I've just rolled to close to 11k miles on my system. You guys better stop boosting too high. 5 psi is a shit load of boost with higher compression. I've seen that T04E turbo...it's HELLA bigger than my S-16g...especially the compressor side (which pushes all that damn air.

Guys...listen to Stan....keep the boost at the recommended levels. 7 psi is about tops for stage 2 STAR. If you want more boost, you better start thinking bigger injectors!(and possibly internals)

The more CFM's a turbo pushes, the more FUEL that is required! these two kits have two VERY DIFFERENT turbos. The Garrett turbo is MUCH bigger!


Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

i still completely disagree with you on that. The biggest measure of where CFM's will count is right at the valves, where the air enters the engine. 10 PSI pushing on them is 10 PSI whether it comes from a star turbo or hrc turbo. IF you think back to days of chemistry class, the amount of air present in that container (intake manifold) is all related to the pressure(boost), volume of the container(intake manifold), and temperature of the air, which with two quality intercoolers, should not be much different. No where in there does it come into play with CFM's let alone CFM's being a measurement done at the outlet of the turbo, 9 miles of intercooler piping away from the intake manifold and valves which controll the amount of air that enters the engine. Look at what sensors controll your engine, a MAP sensor, and intake Air temperature sensor. It uses these two values to increase fuel or decrease fuel for that certain rpm.

The way i see it, if you had a star turbo with hahn fuel system, it will run exactly the same!

But alas, no one on this board cares.

jason
95 GS Turbo

ok guys the turbos might be pushin the same psi but might flow less air than the other for example if the star turbo intake tube or whatever has a bigger diameter then it flows more air.
easiest to think about it super16g with a 7 cm housing at 18psi in a GST makes what around 320 correct well a 20G with a 8cm housing flows alot more air at 18psi thus creating alot more power around 400-450 i think.
by the way i am new to the board i will be turboing after i get this check i am waiting for.
later
"Z"

Well its not too bad...cost wise as long as you replace everything with stock stuff.
but for me I chose to go JE/ crower/ and total seal rings. and not to mention a reseating of the valves...total cost was about
2700..if you go upgrades !!??

If you live in the San Jose area, then hit me up...I have some good mechanics and machine shops that work cheap but do damn good work..

E_ME_2@hotmail.com

Damn...I'm starting to feel stupid. What was I thinking 10psi? Here I am talking all this stuff about " don't get greedy with the boost ect...ect..." And here I am not listening to myself. I knew that running that much was dangerous...but I didn't listen to myself or maybe I didn't care. I really wanted to shut this guy up!!

But all in all, it was fun while it lasted. I had a machanic check it out. It is either a blown ring or my bearings. He also said that I could have melted my piston...#3 or 4?? He is leaning more towards the blown ring cause of the oil thing. He can't really tell unless he looked inside.

Cool thing is that I'm still under warrenty:P SO... don't tell anybody lol. I was going to get internals, but I don't have the bones right now. Maybe later. I have to pay for school. DAMN:-)

Thank you guys for all your help and support!! You made me feel SO much better!! What would I do without this board?!?

To all you turbo guys, and soon to be boosting guys...Just remember the power you had before going turbo...then think of the power you have after, even at 4-5psi. It's a BIG step, don't trip and fall. It will only lead you to the bottom. Who cares if someone is faster...there will always be that someone who will be dangeriously fast. Shrug it off and have fun with what you have. Relize what you have...you have more then you think. That was my problem...I forgot.



Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

You and me are in the same boat except i blew mine at only 6 psi! Hold the applause. Just remeber that one who makes no mistakes never makes anything. While i ride my skateboard to school i keep reminding myself of the 12 second daily driver that ill be driving soon. It would be sad to see you sell your kit although it doesnt look like you will. I would hate to see you go conservative on us after this. 10 lbs of boost is possible on stk internals. hahn turbo kit owners do it all the time and you know why> Fuel set up. They have some powerfuel module that is more profecient than the star's pump, regulator, and fcd system. Our turbos are better flowing but i think the key is tunning and propper air/fuel mixture. Im getting some 500 cc injectors to replace my dinosaur stockers which might have caused my problem.

"My date thought she dropped a cheeto down my pants, when she went to grab it - i screamed"

Sleeper

Man,

Sorry to hear about your engine. I cracked a ring land running 14psi on stock internals :-) hehe. oops. Oh well. We all get bost greedy. I agree with Stan on the biggest problem is people running the Star keep looking at what HRC says when that is not the case. That is a big turbo now that I have seen it in person. 10psi is not 10psi exactly. Remember, the whole purpose
of sizing the turbo is to minimize the heat at the turbo outlet. As air is heated it expands and becomes less dense. This makes an increase in volume and flow. A larger turbo will not heat the air as much as a smaller turbo and will have more dense air making more power. There is much more to it than this but for I am leaving it at that for now to prove my point.

MuRiX
97 Eclipse GS HRC Stage II
And a whole lot of other mods...
A.D.P.
http://murix.home.icq.com/index.html

:(

Same thing that happens to all of us that boost more than recommended all the way to redline without timing retard. You think you're engine is not detonating because it's hard to tell on these engines and when you race you tend to attempt to squeeze every last ounce of HP out by taking it to redline where your timing is waaayyyyy to advanced. If you're blowing all your oil out.. I'd put money on it that it's your pistons. Right where the rings sit their cracked. And yes, if it's making that much noise.. you're bearings must have been spun also. Way back when I had stock pistons and rings I used to boost more than 10 psi all the time at the races.. Actually took to to 14 from time to time. But.. I've had 450cc injectors and the MSD-DIS2 ignition (retarded ignition at top end as much as it can go) and I used "TRICK" high octane racing fuel. With proper tuning conditions.. you can boost more pounds per square inch more frequently. Like HRC, I've taken our engine to the limits and beyond with trial and error. All I know is that it's not gonna happen again. I'm keeping it at 12psi with a built motor and I'm gonna work on the show aspect.

Everyone keeps saying that Star's fuel system is not good. The thing that I don't understand is that when I boosted 10psi, I kept a good eye on my Air/Fuel and it was all the way GREEN! It looked like I had plenty of fuel. And I also Shifted at 6,500rpms.

Am I missing something?? What could be causeing the Air/Fuel gauge to read rich when I'm not getting enough fuel?? And if I'm not redlining...what could be causeing detonation?? Is 6,500rpms too much still??

I am kinda hesitant about putting the turbo back in cause I don't want this to happen again. But I will probably keep looking at it in my room ( cause that's where I'll keep it:-) ) and I won't beable to stop drooling and I will eventually put it on:P I just will keep it low until my engine can handle it.

Again thanks for ALL your help!! I really appreciate it!!



Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

"...when I
>boosted 10psi, I kept a
>good eye on my Air/Fuel
>and it was all the
>way GREEN! It looked
>like I had plenty of
>fuel. And I also
>Shifted at 6,500rpms.
>
>Am I missing something?? What
>could be causeing the Air/Fuel
>gauge to read rich when
>I'm not getting enough fuel??

It's ENTIRELY possible that you HAVE ENOUGH fuel. Remember my post above when I said that the Garrett T03/04E is a big turbo. More CFM's not only mean a need for more fuel, it means that it's pushing out MORE power. I'm guessing at 10 psi, you're really close to 300 hp (at the flywheel) if not more. That means, you're reaching the upper limits of what our engines can handle, with adequate fuel or not. That's the difference with our engines and the 4g63 engine: our stock engine internals can handle stock about 50-75 less HP than theirs. If someone tried to hold 375 HP and up with a 4g63 engine, it's very likely they may blow something up too.

Like others have posted...10 psi in a Super 16g may reach close to 275 horses, but a bigger T03/04E turbo may reach something closer to 300 horses.

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

10.5 PSI boost. 240 at the wheels...with a free flowing 3" exhaust, on a big t3/t4 turbo. That equates to about 275-280 at the wheels if i am not smoking crack. hmm...same as hahn's figures....hmm....so okay...we go with chris's theory, bigger turbo doesn't heat the air as much. ok, so my intercooler doesnt have as hot of air to cool. ok. smaller turbo...hotter air. This makes sense...but my point. Both setups have efficient intercoolers. Both setups are pushing boost levels that are not at insane amounts. How can it be that big of a difference? now if both turbos were pushing their max boost limits, and pumping nothing but hot air, i could see this come into effect.


jason
95 GS Turbo

Sorry to hear that dude, good luck with the motor repair :) ! One question for ya, did you spank the GS-t or what!?

Strauss
95 GS...
NOS 70-shot

YA:P I spanked him twice. Even after the first time he STILL was talking shit. But he shut up after I did it again:-)

SO...what do you guys think?? Should I put it back in once I get it fixed or should I leave it out and sell it?? I'm really hesitant about putting it back in cause I don't want to have this happen again. But I really want to put it back in. I should be fine if I keep it at 5-8psi...but what if I wanna boost 10 pounds again? I feel stupid for asking, but what do I need?? Bottom end? Injectors? Better fuel supply?? I want to be EXTRA safe if I put it back in, but I don't have that much cash. I can't afford bottom end...but the other things I think I can afford. But if I'm getting enough fuel...are the injectors and better fuel supply really worth it??

I know I can get a thicker head gasket, but is that safe? I heard that it's not recommended?




Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

I'll pray for a fellow DSMer!!!



"RACECAR backwards is RACECAR!"

Kory
korynguyen@yahoo.com
Happy Honda Hunting!

I don't know man ... going back to a GS after having a turbo is going to be like a top level executive being moved into the mail room. I think you should follow with the motto "you live and learn". Frankly all this talk of engines blowing up is scaring me away from buying a turbo kit until I have hella cash for contigency.

put it back in and boost at no more then 6-7 psi. I guess you show that trash talkn'n gst guy that he aint no true DSMer

Dang, if you just rebuild it without upgrading the bottom end.. you'll never really be able to take full or even partial advantage of the "ball-bearing" turbo. I feel bad to admit that this is what I was waiting for you to do because I wanted to see your dyno results after having built the motor. I'm contemplating getting the ball bearing turbo myself. Just as the icing on the cake since I've pretty much did everything else.

Man you guys make me not wanna go turbo now. If I ran my car at 5 PSI non intercooled would that be fine? How much boost do the GSTs run at? I know that my car would have no intercooler and high compression pistons....

sorree about your car man, I felt the same way when I curbsided my car and the wheel fell of. But I knew the damage wasn't that bad, in your case man you must feel awful. Just remember to carry at least a quart of oil with you and when that low oil light comes on that means you MUST pull over and fill er up. My auto teacher sez that any oil is good even cooking oil when your stuck in the middle of nowhere and are out of oil.


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | Performance Muffler | Cold Air Intake | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |

the 4G's run up to 14psi stock dont they?

http://www.geocities.com/blue2gnt

HadesOmega...ya, you should be fine at 5psi, just don't go any higher. Your engine won't blow if it's in good shape before you put the turbo on. I think the 4G63's run like 13psi...but that is a completely different motor...just like the supra turbo...they run like 20psi if I'm not mistaken?? I just know it's more then the 4G63's, or at least it can handle a lot more. I was stupid...I ran 10psi on a stock bottom end.

Raizin...Greg built his bottom end with the ball bearing set up. I don't know if he dynoed it though. Ask him.

What do you guys think about the thicker head gasket thing? I really don't wanna get rid of my turbo, what are my options??

Thanks again for all your help!!

So what was the time slip numbers? Just curious to see what you ran at 10 psi.

DAVE_FL
97GS
AEM CAI
AFX PULLEY
AFX solid motor mount
Magnaflow exhaust
Sparkco 9mm wires
Eibach Pro Kit
tokico shocks
Altezzas
A Badass sound system
Indiglows,neons,and all that good stuff...hehe
BOOSTING SOON!!!!!

As long as you keep your A/F and EGTs in check, and don't go over the recommended amount of boost, you should be fine....unless your engine was in really bad shape to begin with.
I'm running 4psi right now, and the car feels like it was meant to come like this...you won't understand until you drive it.......when you race someone, and they pull ahead off the line, you no longer worry about getting beat...because as soon as the magic 3000rpm is reached, you start seeing them in the rear view.

sorry...got kind of sidetracked....

Anyway.... Stock GS-Ts run 10-12psi..somewhere around there, and that is with 8.5 compression and intercooled. My friend's TSi is running 17psi with a Big 16G on the stock intercooler and engine and hit a 13.8 the other night...and he's auto. There was also a turbo integra there that was talking some shit, and I wanted to be the one to shut him up...but I wasn't even going to go near that wastegate...its just a matter of self control.

Bottom line is, yes, there are people that are faster...there always will be. As long as you let those people stay faster than you when you have stock internals, and keep the damn boost down:D, you will be fine. You should definitely always be prepared for the worst though. I always have a quart of Mobil 1 in my trunk, and a cell phone in case my car decides to spin a bearing on me.

Hell, some people are really lucky...look at Locke...he's been boosting for a few months now without any gauges and a leaking headgasket, and his car is still somehow holding together :p
(just bustin your balls Locke)

So either take the plunge and make your engine sing with pressurized air, or wait till you can afford the money for a rebuild. I figure by the time my engine is tired of working on stock internals, I will be able to afford new pistons and rods and the labor to get the build done.

By the way BB, sorry to hear about your misfortune...I hate seeing another 420a out of commisson. It looks like you are starting to come to terms with the problem, and aren't going to get sick to your stomach. Cause if you did get sick, I sure as hell wasn't gonna clean it up! :D




-Jeff
Now BOOSTED! HRC Super 16G

http://gs.dsmpower.com

its more then a few months jeff =) its a more like half a year or more foo. Yes without any guages or anything just a properly installed star stage 2 boostn'n at 5 psi. but now i have upped my boost to 7psi and begining to get a little bit dangerous =)

austin powers " i also like to play dangerously"

damm gotta get that headgasket fix argh!

So if he got enough fuel, what cause him to blow the engine? Too much pressure from too much boost??



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

Lack of oil. For sure he spun a rod bearing, it's still iffy i guess as to whether he damaged a piston, but it all comes out to the same thing: rebuild.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

Just wondering, isn't spun bearing same as one of the factors that attributes to crankwalk (on 4G63?)

Anyways, could this have been prevented if oil pressure/level was monitored more closely?



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

The thing is...I'm not really sure what it is, YET. It does sound like a bearing but I'm still not sure until I get it taken apart. I had 2 quorts of oil left, so it could have been lack of oil, but still, it could have not. I'll let you all know as soon as I find out. I should find out Friday.

Thanks for all your support!!!



Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

Im going to guess ring

Thats why its ironic we always bring up crankwalk. We have a pretty well documented high rate of bearing failure too just ours is fixable.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

But we have several advantages, like it being easily avoidable, easily fixable (but expensive), and once fixed it doesn't come back unless, frankly, you're an idiot about regular maintenance.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

Whats happens when the 4G63's get crankwalk?? Do they have to get a new engine?? Does it destroy it?? DAMN...I didn't think that crankwalk is that serious!!



Ball Bearing Star Stage II
"Power is nothing without control"

Well, when we spin a bearing, it is loud, and we learn quick to not drive it. When the 4G63s get crankwalk, the crank actually moves around in the block, and it can even walk around in the block and make a huge hole in the block. If the problem is caught quickly enough, it won't have time to walk around too much. However, in the blocks that don't seem damaged, there is a high rate of recurrance. Strange. Often times, crankwalk can be attributed to a faulty clutch install, or a faulty transmission install where it isn't lined up right. Sometimes though, it comes out of nowhere on a stock plant with original parts. How odd.
All I can say is:
Better them than us!
-=B-=

World's most stock '96 DSM...
/\
_\/_
/_/\_\

hot damn, look at all the responses, aren't we a great group!!
group hug time :)

javi d
vroom n' boom