Used the search option, but it doesn't want to help. I was reluctant to post this because I know it's been done to death. Biting the bullet here. Where is the best place to get the sfmu, what disk does it come with and what disk do I need for 30ib injectors and 13-15psi of boost?

summit's probably the best place to get it. it'll come w/ all the disks/rings/springs that you'll need. i'm using the 2.72" disk(2nd largest) w/ the largest ring and the dark hard spring. this setup should work well for you also. since you have the cartech you'll be able to use the bleed valve from it on the sfmu.

i wouldn't go much higher than 13 psi or so with 30lb injectors. XtreamRS has this setup and he says that his fuel pressures are pretty high around that level of boost. with the S-FMU, you need to buy a new needle valve from Vortech (or that other company that someone posted a link for, go back 2 months or so and look for a thread called "attention all S-FMU users" or something) and once you buy the little needle valve you need to call HRC and tell them that you need the 10/32 NPT fitting. that fitting screws into the needle valve, and has a hose barb so you can use the check valve (the black and white dongle thingy) that comes with the HRC kit in order to prevent air from coming in under vacuum.

call vortech they will tell you if there is a supplier near you. other wise get it through summit or vortech directly.

check it out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2416316897

all i want is the bare min. if the price of $210 +whatever s&h is to you then i will end it.
email me
cool
Michael 99gs 8-Injector Setup
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Sounds very tempting Mike. But I'm looking into all these other options now. I need a fuel project, so I'm doing some more research. FICU or the 8 injector set-up since many of you are having so much sucess with it.

I'm confused. Now I need to order some stuff directly from vortech in order to use some stuff off my hrc setup? How many guys are actually doing this? I'm picking up my sfmu in a few minutes and need to know if I can get it on today and start driving, There must be an easier way to use the check valve if it's necessary.

would that be the 8:1 disk that you guys are recomending? also.. do you have to have the hrc stuff used on the bleed valve? can you just leave it capped off like how it comes?

im running 310cc injectors as well. hahn says they can handle 15psi of boost and it should be around 95psi of fuel under wot. im trying to tune my bitch and am finding it dificult. i think i have the 12:1 disk in there right now with whatever spring came with it. i bought it used.

James

As for the SFMU, get it from Summit or Vortech directly. Summit its around 290 bucks. If you have the HRC kit, then take off the bleed valve and check valve off their FPR, and it will fit right into the SFMU. For the 310's, dont push 14 psi on them. At 13 pi, my fuel pressure is over 100 psi, and IMO, that is really pushing them hard. I'd rather play it safe and keep it at 100 psi of fuel or less. I use the largest disk in the SFMU(it comes factory shipped with it in), and the long, silver spring(already inside from the factory). If you use the short, dark spring, you may have troube getting the idle pressure low enough. I idle around 21 psi, with excellent fuel trim numbers. I have about one turn out on the bleed valve, to lower the rise rate a bit under boost. It prob equals the 2.72" disk rise rate or a bit higher. Thats why i like using the bleed valve iwth the largest disk, as i know i have plenty of fuel available, but i can tune down the rise rate with the bleed vavle. IMO, dont go over 13 psi boost on the 310's. Its been dyno proven that an 11.5:1 A/F ratio gives us the best power, and that is RICH. YOu can run 15 psi on these injects, but you will run slightly lean. If you run some race gas, like 110 octane, then 15 psi will be ok on these injects.

>As for the SFMU, get it from Summit or Vortech directly.
>Summit its around 290 bucks. If you have the HRC kit, then
>take off the bleed valve and check valve off their FPR, and it
>will fit right into the SFMU.

ok you lost me becuase i know what the check valve is (the black and white thingymajig), but what is the bleed valve? And where on the sfmu does it go?

I use the largest disk in
>the SFMU(it comes factory shipped with it in), and the long,
>silver spring(already inside from the factory).

So don't change anything? Just plug and play? Don't even put any rings in there?

Thats why i like using
>the bleed valve iwth the largest disk, as i know i have plenty
>of fuel available, but i can tune down the rise rate with the
>bleed vavle. IMO, dont go over 13 psi boost on the 310's. Its
>been dyno proven that an 11.5:1 A/F ratio gives us the best
>power, and that is RICH. YOu can run 15 psi on these injects,
>but you will run slightly lean. If you run some race gas, like
>110 octane, then 15 psi will be ok on these injects.


I notice the sfmu has a boost, bleed and vacuum holes. What to do with those? Did you use the stock bleed screw that came with the sfmu? I'm still confused with interchanging the cartech parts.

mike, you have mail
3
DWAYNE H


www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

>
>ok you lost me becuase i know what the check valve is (the
>black and white thingymajig), but what is the bleed valve?
>And where on the sfmu does it go?


The bleed valve should be on your HRC regulator. Its a brass needle valve that the check valve should be connected to. The bleed valve basically bleeds off boost pressure that the FPR sees, and in turn, will give less fuel pressure, with the more boost pressure that is bled off from the FPR. If you need more fuel pressure, then closing up the bleed vale will keep more boost pressure inside the FPR, and hence more fuel pressure. The bleed valve will screw into the top lid of the SFMU, maked "bleed" DONT overtighten this bleed valve!!! Its a soft brass metal and can easily break off the threads if overtightend. Just snug it up lightly.
>

>
>So don't change anything? Just plug and play? Don't even put
>any rings in there?

Yes, plug and play, IF you are using the 310 cc injectors.
>
>
>I notice the sfmu has a boost, bleed and vacuum holes. What
>to do with those? Did you use the stock bleed screw that came
>with the sfmu? I'm still confused with interchanging the
>cartech parts.


The boost and vac holes have small adjustment bleeder screws inside them. They should be kept full closed, or all the way in. They should be like that from the factory, but check them anyway. I believe they are allen head screws inside the holes there..
Basically what i am saying, is that the bleed valve and check valve that is on the HRC fuel pressure regulator, will fit perfectly onto the SFMU. Just unscrew the bleed valve from the HRC regulator, and screw it back into the bleed port on the SFMU. Then off of the small hose barb on the bleed valve, should be the short piece of vac hose, then the check valve on the end of the hose. This keeps any air coming into the bleed valve and into the SFMU chamber when the motor is in vacuum.

Done, it idles beautifuly, but still have some questions. Check valve is hooked up right. I'm using the 3rd largest disk with the largest ring and the short dark spring. When I boost, no matter how much. The fuel pressure doesn't seem to go pass 60psi. It rises up and stays at 60psi. I can feel the detonation coming as my boost was rising and the fp stays at 60psi so I let off. Was my set up right? Another funny thing. As I rolled into my driveway, my damn car shuts off like it wasn't getting any fuel. Though my fuel pressure guage clearly shows 30psi. So what's up? I figure the top screw was to adjust idle. I haven't touched the vacuum nor the boost screws. Should I play with the boost screw?

Somebody please holla back. I need my car for the car show tomorrow.

If for some reason the boost screw is opened up, then that will limit your total boosted fuel pressure to one point. Be sure that boost screw is tight, and not opened up any. If you have the bleed vavle on there, IMO, put in the largest disk, the one that has no ring aroung it, then use the bleed valve to fine tune your fuel pressures.. Also check to be sure the blue diaphram and SFMU lid is not loose, or overtightened. You just need to snug up the small allen bolts..

How do you use the bleed valve to fine tune it when the check valve is connected to it? Unless there is an adjustable screw that I don't know about? And you said to tighten the boost screw? I thought the 2.72 disk, small spring, and largest ring was the best setup for 30in injectors? What spring do I use with the largest disk then?

>How do you use the bleed valve to fine tune it when the check
>valve is connected to it? Unless there is an adjustable screw
>that I don't know about?

The bleed valve should have a small knob on the end of it, you can turn it in and out. Its just a needle valve that lets more air out of it, when you turn out the knob. When you turn in the valve, it closes off, and does not let any or very little air through it. This bleed valve is tapped into the main air chamber inside the SFMU. This air chamber is what gives you your higher fuel pressures under boost. Boost pressure enters this chamber, and pushes down on the diaphram, and then closes off more return fuel flow that should be going back to the tank. This in turn raises your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Now, when you open up the bleed valve, that boost pressure inside the chamber is being let out, or "bled off". This in turn lowers your fuel pressure because the SFMU and diaphram is not seeing as much boost pressure, its being bled off. That's how it lowers your fuel pressure under boost. It basically lowers the disk's rise rate, just like using a smaller disk/ring combo. If using the largest disk, lets say you have like 2 turns open on the bleed valve. Some of that boost pressure inside the SFMU will be bled off, and lowers the rise rate to lets say the 2.72" disk. Make sense? Then if you close off the bleed vavle, it will let less air by it, hence increasing your fuel pressure, because the SFMU is seeing more boost pressure now.


And you said to tighten the boost
>screw? I thought the 2.72 disk, small spring, and largest
>ring was the best setup for 30in injectors? What spring do I
>use with the largest disk then?


On the top lid of the SFMU, there is a "boost" port hole on it. Inside that port hole, is a allen head adjustment screw, that has a very tiny hole in the center of it. If you loosen this screw, it sets a maximum fuel pressure under boost. So this can set you total max fuel pressure to lets say 80 psi. If your boost pressure spikes for some reason, the fuel pressure will NOT go above 80 psi. That is why you DO NOT want that boost screw to be out at all, and you want it tight all the way in, so as the SFMU will still raise up your fuel pressure if your boost spikes or you run more boost pressure in the future. IMO, the best SFMU setup is the largest disk, the longer silver spring, and the bleedvalve with check valve. YOu will prob need to have one or two turns out on the bleed vavle to lower that disk's rise rate a bit. The check valve needs to be on the small hose barb off of the bleed vavle. The outlet of the bleed valve should have that small hose barb, then you connect a short piece of vac hose to that, then the check valve connects to the hose. This check valve lets the bled off boost pressure out the SFMU, but it closes off under vacuum, so no air gets sucked back into the SFMU, creating a small vac leak really. Since the bleed valve is directly tapped into the main air chamber of the SFMU, and if the bleed vavle is open, then not using the check valve will create a small vac leak, and the SFMU will raise the fuel pressure a bit too, since it's seeing less vacuum..

....which brings me to this part. I took that little needle nose npt fitting off the cartech and put it directly on to the sfmu, but I don't see a knob that you're talking about. the little needle nose npt is hooked up to the check valve. No adjustable nob on any of them. Unless you're talking about the hex portion of the needle where a socket wrench fits over.

Sounds like you dont even have the actual bleed valve on the SFMU. Sounds like you just have that small hose barb screwed into the bleed port on the SFMU, with the vac check valve on it. That is why you are only getting 60 psi of fuel, is because A LOT of boost pressure is being bled off throgh the check valve...Here is a pic of my setup. You can see the bleed valve that is screwed into the bleed port of the SFMU, and the small adjustment knob on the end of it. Then, coming off of the bleed valve's outlet, on the side of the bleed vlave, is a short piece of vacum line, and at the end of that, is the black/white vacuum check valve..Your setup should look ecactly like this..

bingo. We hit the nail on the head. Does home depot have this thing? Can you get me a close up look at this? And what is the actual thing call? I was speaking to NitrousEclipse and he told me to use the double sided aluminum nipple that came with the kit and put that in between the vacuum source from the intake mani to the sfmu. Problem is I don't know which side to face which. Because one side has small hole and other side has big hole. When I do this should I close up the bleed port with the screw that came with it or leave the hrc chack valve on there?

>bingo. We hit the nail on the head. Does home depot have
>this thing? Can you get me a close up look at this? And what
>is the actual thing call?

Its just called a bleed valve. Your HRC kit *should* have come with it, at least i know the older kits did. It should be on your FPR that came with the kit..If you dont have one, you can get the bleed valve from HRC, or Vortech directly. I believe HRC is cheaper. They both sell the EXACT same bleed vavle..doesnt matter where you get it from. I think its around 20 bucks or so..


I was speaking to NitrousEclipse
>and he told me to use the double sided aluminum nipple that
>came with the kit and put that in between the vacuum source
>from the intake mani to the sfmu. Problem is I don't know
>which side to face which. Because one side has small hole and
>other side has big hole. When I do this should I close up the
>bleed port with the screw that came with it or leave the hrc
>chack valve on there?


It doesnt matter which way that restrictor faces. Just put it inline from your boost source, in between the SFMU's inlet on the top lid. When you finally get the bleed valve and check valve connected, keep the bleed valve fully closed off(all the way in), then do some WOT full boost runs. If you are running too much fuel pressure and are too rich, then at about 1 turn at a time, open up the bleed valve, and re run the car. The bleed valve's adjustment can be sensitive if you go more than one turn at a time..thats all there is too it..

you guys spent 20 bucks on this thing? I think you can make one. Works almost the same way as a manual boost controller from the looks of it. I'm gonna go check home depot.