ok i hooked up my nitrous (direct port) i am running jets 22/18 when i launched the car i let it get up to like 3000rpm then i sprayed it spun the 17s like mad then it just bogged and shut down and got some miss fires what could be the cause too much fuel ?i also have the msd dis2, ngk plugs . could i fix this just by going with smaller fuel jetting which i have ordered already

a little help would be nice

plugged jet? i had a similar issue when i had spray and i ahd a small piece of something in the actual jet. hope this helps...

When you check your spark plugs for signs of how your system is operating, CHECK EVERY SPARK PLUG, not just the easiest plug to get to. No two cylinders ever run exactly alike. Nitrous has the unique characteristic of cleaning the spark plugs very well and leave them looking like you just installed them. If there are any signs of detonation such as tiny silver or black specks deposited on the porcelain, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground strap of the spark plug exhibits a bluish-rainbow coloring, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground straps shows signs of melting, reduce the nitrous jet size and change to a spark plug with a shorter and thicker ground strap.

If you system suddenly begins to experience problems even though you haven't changed anything, the culprit is most often a clogged nitrous or fuel filter. The instructions that come with your system contain information about where the nitrous and fuel filter screens are located. Check them periodically.

If your experience any problems you don't understand or can't cure, don't hesitate to call our tech line. We're here to help you get the most from your NOS System.

Spark Plugs and Nitrous Oxide:

What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
Over the years there seems to have been a great amount of technical material written about the simple operation of a spark plug and what they can do in relation to the way an engine runs. There are a few basic characteristics about spark plugs that you need to know to make an intelligent choice about the correct spark plug for your application.

First, and most important; a spark plug must be of the correct design to operate within the environment of your engine, not the other way around. This means that the spark plug has virtually no influence on how the engine burns fuel or runs in general. The correct spark plug will simply survive the conditions present in your engine. A spark plug must maintain a certain temperature to keep itself clean. The wrong heat range can cause an overheated plug or a fouled plug. The heat range refers to the temperature of the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode.

Lean air/fuel ratios are more difficult to light because there are less fuel molecules in the area of the plug gap when the plug is scheduled to fire; thus, projected nose plugs were designed for late-model lean-burn engines. Modern high-energy ignition also allowed larger plug gaps. All the while this was happening, something else happened. Something that no one seems to have really noticed as the real culprit when the issue of factory type plugs being used with nitrous comes up. We'd like to clue you in.

Quite often, a factory type, wide-gap projected plug will produce a misfire condition after only a few seconds of nitrous use. The misfire is not due to the heat range. The misfire occurs because the ground strap of the spark plug becomes a glowing ember because it is too long to dissipate the extra heat produced by a nitrous-accelerated burn condition. The correct fix for this phenomenon is to replace the plugs with one that has a shorter ground strap. By doing this, you will shorten the path for the heat being absorbed by the ground strap. You can use the same heat range, you just have to find a non-projected nose plus with a shorter and preferably thicker ground strap.

If you only change the heat range of the spark plug to a colder heat range, you may very well still have the misfire problem. Since the length of the ground strap is the cause of the misfire, a colder spark plug may have the same length of ground strap as the hotter plug you replaced it with.

Spark plug gaps should generally be .030" to .035". Never try to gap a plug designed for an .060" gap down to .035". Find the correct non-projected nose plug designed for an .035" gap.

jug, nice knowledge, i mean real nice, btw while your at do a compression check on all 4 cylinders.

DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

well i pulled the plugs and they all had that pepper look to them no 3 cylinder the the strap was melted off and the porcelen was cracked . these plugs are the ngk bkr6es11 gaped at i think 35 any idea what plug i should go too.

i think ur gap is too big...but maybe im wrong. oh yea...dont retard your timing either...

This just might be my stupidity again, but I thought you shouldn't run Direct Port with stock internals. Do you have aftermarket internals? Do I know what the hell I'm talking about?

i have stock internals for now but also have another motor sitting here so i really don't care if i hert the motor . as far a the plug gap i was told between .30 / .35 is good also the timing wasn't retarded and i am now being told to retard it between -3 to -5 deg . could have been shitty fuel also had sunoco 93 i got sum 100 now but i have too wait for new plugs. igeuss im going to rejet the fuel im going to drop it to a 22n2o and 16 fuel

here is some general n2o info i found last night:

Nitrous

Nitrous injected engines require pistons to withstand high temperatures, then immediately be frozen by a gas, while at the
same time producing higher pressure levels within the combustion
chamber. On the top of the piston, psi levels increase
exponentially, producing more horsepower instantly.
While These power increases are great, the top of the piston
changes from a expanded state (due to high temperatures) to
compact state when it is suddenly frozen. There are major effects
caused by instantly changing temperatures on the top of the
piston while the bottom of the Piston remains near the combustion
temperature. This temporarily skin hardens the top surface of the
piston while the underlying material microscopically remains
somewhat soft and pliable. After this type of surface hardening,
the piston surface material becomes Brittle and soon develops
Spider Cracks. Nitrous injection also temporarily changes piston to
cylinder wall tolerances due to differences in materials and their
different thermal expansion rates. This instant thermal change
creates molecular chaos, and if repeated over time, creates a
major Catastrophic failure resulting in the extra expense of a engine teardown and rebuild. This is major problem is totally
avoidable by using the right components when building the
engine the first time, thus spending a little more money up front
results in saving allot more money in the long run, due to
replacement and labor costs in repairing the damaged engine.
Nitrous related Piston problems can range from broken piston rings
on the minimum to complete Piston Burn through or Piston Skirt
Failure. In the majority, aftermarket pistons, rods, and wrist pins not specifically designed to withstand the extreme conditions of Nitrous Injection will EVENTUALLY FAIL, plain and Simple.

where did you get that? that isnt necessarily true...power isnt made from cooling the engine down...it is made by the introduction of the N2O which is basically and increased concentrated direct amount of what the engine is already taking in from the atmosphere. it is so cold for storage purposes and its denser when it goes into the engine...sure some power is made from it cooling the engine but it is mostly the nitrogen and oxygen.

i always thought that n2o lowered intake air temperature, increases oxygen content, and increases combustion . another word the n20 has a highrt percentage of oxygen than air causing the fuel to burn better

>where did you get that? that isnt necessarily true...power
>isnt made from cooling the engine down...it is made by the
>introduction of the N2O which is basically and increased
>concentrated direct amount of what the engine is already
>taking in from the atmosphere. it is so cold for storage
>purposes and its denser when it goes into the engine...sure
>some power is made from it cooling the engine but it is mostly
>the nitrogen and oxygen.


where did it say that the power was made from cooling?

Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.

alright i talked to a nos tech guy he says -5deg retard is good
race fuel and a smaller fuel jet should clear it up buti have to wait for the jets so i will update after rejetting

Race fuel on an 80 shot?? Doesn't seem right nor does the -5 deg retard. Maybe one or the other but definitely not both. A 22 jet on a 4 cyl direct port yeilds about an 80 shot with accompanying 16 jet for fuel.

yeah 22/ 16 is a bout 80 shot as for "race fuel" (only 103) its not needed going to mix with some because of the 93 im running. from what he figured fuel alone could be the major cause it could be just from the little diff in jetting i had i was running 22/18. by no means am i an expert on this stuff if you cant tell

alright i changed the jets to 20/14 ran some higher octane fuel and had my bottle press at like 750 (don't have a bottle heater yet ) no it runs better im letting the car cool right now before i check my plugs . but now the car is surging and sputters a little bit wtf could this be now