ok i just sorta finish my 8-injector install. i did not hook up the extra ecu yet since i am dead tired. anyways i go to set idle fuel pressure to 47-50. ok so my electrical fp gauge says 50psi, thats where it peaks at. and i notice it does not drop down like before i did the 8-injector setup. before fuel pressure use to drop right after the pump tuens on (before starting).
ok
my next problem when i started the car it started to rev up so i turned the car of asap, and you can hear the bov about to do its thing. i check the accelerator cable from the tb to the back of the intake manifold and all looks good, so far? i just cant see if its hook up correct pedal arm? im wondering if its only the accelertor cable which can cause the car to rev up?
also if the accelerator cable from the tb to pedal arm is sorta pushed around will this cause the rev?
ill look at it more tommorow since im about to fall down =(
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

see if the the throttle body plate where the cable connects to is sitting against the idle screw. if its nt against that screw, the cable is to tight and you have a partial throttle condition at idle: adjust the cable

if it is against that screw and the car is still reving, then there is probably a good size leaks somewhere in the manifold

whats the best way to check for leaks in the intake manifold?anything else?
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

>whats the best way to check for leaks in the intake
>manifold?

light up a cigarette and move it from place to place on the manifold. if you see the smoke sucking into the manifold you gotta leak.

is it bad to light something like that up, just in case (near fuel) ? any other way to check for leaks?
well i cant fall asleep yet, but the cable/bolt thingy looks fine. its in place. would a leak in the intake manifold cause my fuel pressure not to drop when i turn the key to the on ( when the fuel pump makes noise )?
i just notice my fuel pressure now is like 25psi before it was like 45-50psi about.
hmmmm?
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

>is it bad to light something like that up, just in case (near
>fuel) ? any other way to check for leaks?

What does your vacuum look like at idle?

I wouldn't light anything up either around the fuel lines. I've heard people use squirt bottles before, but really if you hold your ear close to the vacuum lines, you can usually hear a hissing noise. Another method would be to use one of those "JK Leak Detectors" from MAch V Motorsports. It connects to the intake on the compressor. You make sure your throttle body is open and connect an air compressor to the leak detector and pressurize. That way you can listen for the hisses with the car off.


>well i cant fall asleep yet, but the cable/bolt thingy looks
>fine. its in place. would a leak in the intake manifold cause
>my fuel pressure not to drop when i turn the key to the on (
>when the fuel pump makes noise )?

I don't think so. Even if the FPR reads vacuum closer to atomspheric pressure, the fuel pressure might even rise up higher instead of dropping.


>i just notice my fuel pressure now is like 25psi before it was
>like 45-50psi about.

It might just be a situation where you need to reset your fuel pressure in lieu of the additional fuel rail. I didn't have to since I'm using both a Walbro 255lph and the Accel inline. But if you only have one or the other, I can see where an adjustment might be necessary.

As far as your jumpy idle, check for vacuum leaks, but don't stress over it too much, especially if there isn't anything obvious. You may want to pull your intake piping off of the throttle body and look at your butterfly plate with the throttle at rest. With that, you can put the throttle body cable as a potential culprit to rest. Check your ISC and TPS sensors on the back of the TB. Make sure their wires are all intact and the harnesses are connected. From the installation you've done so far, I know it would have been necessary to disconnect them. Keep trying. You're almost there!
:thumbsup

"I wouldn't light anything up either around the fuel lines. I've heard people use squirt bottles before, but really if you hold your ear close to the vacuum lines, you can usually hear a hissing noise. Another method would be to use one of those "JK Leak Detectors" from MAch V Motorsports. It connects to the intake on the compressor. You make sure your throttle body is open and connect an air compressor to the leak detector and pressurize. That way you can listen for the hisses with the car off."

could i use one of those adapters which i hook up on the intake side of the turbo and pressurize it like that with compressor to find leaks for my problem?
">i just notice my fuel pressure now is like 25psi before it was
>like 45-50psi about.
It might just be a situation where you need to reset your fuel pressure in lieu of the additional fuel rail. I didn't have to since I'm using both a Walbro 255lph and the Accel inline. But if you only have one or the other, I can see where an adjustment might be necessary."

i have both walbro 255 and the inline (hrc).
"As far as your jumpy idle, check for vacuum leaks, but don't stress over it too much, especially if there isn't anything obvious. You may want to pull your intake piping off of the throttle body and look at your butterfly plate with the throttle at rest. With that, you can put the throttle body cable as a potential culprit to rest. Check your ISC and TPS sensors on the back of the TB. Make sure their wires are all intact and the harnesses are connected. From the installation you've done so far, I know it would have been necessary to disconnect them. Keep trying. You're almost there!"

im about go start the car again, last night without steppin on the gas my car revs up and wont hmmm idle normal. i will check the tb etc right now.
oh yah, since i did not hook up the 034 yet with the wires/program would this cause any problem? i really dont think so...
thanks


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

yeah, if you pulled out any sensors check them. that same thing happened to me when i pulled my iac motors out. check that. maybe you made a hole somewhere and forgot.....

My best guess as to what is happening is either your IAC motor isnt pluged in, or you don't have a good tight seal where the injectors mate to the intake manifold. I would start by checking the IAC motor, then I would pressurise the intake using a compressor and listen for leaks like stated above. You are definately leaking air in somewhere. Having the EIC not hooked up will definately not cause what you are describing.

Its got to be an air leak or you forgot to plug a sensor in (unplugging TPS will make you rev high). Did you buy new intake manifold gaskets? Maybe you have a bad gasket. Some people spray carb cleaner on all places that could be leaking (joints, injectors, gaskets). If the engine reacts (by reving or bogging), then you found the leak.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

ok all is cool with idle now, my bud James came over and checked it all out, and found out i did not tighten the bolts from lower to upper well?? i did tighten them before as much as i could, but the stupid part is when james tells me its not tight and i go retighten them, most of them are loose? what gives?
ok now onto fuel pressure,i have stock 235cc primary rail, and accel 420cc in secondary.
i hook up my labtop to check fuel trims, and i set idle fuel pressure to 47psi, ok so my stft is good very low, but my ltft is pretty high like -8%... so i lower it, again and again till i get my fuel trims cool which is pretty close.. stft is near 0 and ltft is about -1.6to
-2.0% but my idle fuel pressure is like 37psi not the stock 47-50psi of fuel? my stock 235cc where cleaned etc by RC.. whats up? my fuel pumps are not as loud anymore at idle so im happy with that. thanks everyone and james for helping out... hehe
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

I think the low fuel pressure just goes to show what we all say: "2GNT's run rich from the factory". Your next step should be to start cruising in the car and creep right up to 0 boost (or a little below). Set your fuel pressure so that your LTFT is nearly zero at that point. If that screws up your LTFT at idle, thats OK. I think you'll get the best results if your LTFT is 0% or slightly lean right before 0 boost. But, don't stress over getting it exactly right. Pretty close will be just fine.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

thanks Corbin on the advice. i will go 'tune' with my cousin later to get me on the road. i will try what you said Corbin.
just wondering, with everyones who has stock 235cc in the primary rail, what are your idle fuel pressure and fuel trims? i know jason and some others got stock 235cc in the primary rail. so im just wondering.
hehe
Michael 99gs 8-Injector Setup
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast