Well today i was driving home from getting the alternator belt put on (bout 50 miles on the 600 ccs) and i couldnt get above 3000rpm..however the idle remained fine..till i got on the highway..on a hill..and it didnt make enough power to get up the hill...so i had it towed to the performance shop at which point we deceided instead of using that 3:1 fmu recalibration kit..we just took the 12:1 off..and the car still runs like shit..and now it wont start because its so damn flooded...im at a loss of what to do guys? Ive heard of "some guy" around here who has 660s in his car, but has a re-chiped gst computer in his hrc stage 2 gs...i just dont know what to do because i doubt i can return the injectors...Greg..what did you have to do to run the 550cc's???

I have the Vortech Super FMU and an AFC and they work great!! I think 600cc injectors might be pushing the envolope...my car just barley starts with 550's but idels and drives fine. Plenty of fuel... 550's are alot of fuel and can get us a long ways. I think you should try your 600's with either the SFMU or try and get the right calibration disk for your FMU. You need a fuel pressure gauge too!!!! I idel at 32psi by the way. I still think they WILL work if your car idels ok! Your just getting to much fuel pressure and fuel under boost. If a 3:1 disk doesn't work try a 2:1 and if that doesn't try an 1:1! It has to work if your car idels! That is key! It idels. Another thing: I think your idel fuel pressure is way to high right now and you need to turn it down, the only way I know to do that is get a FMU with Static fuel pressure screw (idel) which the SFMU has! To tell you the truth you should just go and buy the SFMU! It has some very imprssive adjustments... Fuel pressure under boost, Idel fuel pressure and different fuel pressure calibration disks (fuel pressure curves) I love it!

Well we took off the 12:1 fmu..and it still didnt work..which theoriticly would make it 1:1 right? but even with that 1:1 its not adjust the idle fuel pressure (the static fuel pressure i am assuming found on teh sfmu?) and i guess the 3:1 i ordered would also serve no purpose..but what i dont understand is..the car ran ok up to 4grand or so (turbo spool) when i first did the injectors..but now it runs relaly shitty...the spark plugs get fouled after 30 seconds..but it will idle...im at a loss

TOO MUCH FUEL!!!!!!!! how many times does it need to be said?

jason

and are you sure they are even the right kind of injectors? meaning saturated or peak and hold?

jason

The stock Fuel Pressure Regulator is not boost dependable!! You need to get the SFMU! Plain and simple.... Like Jason said we all know for a fact your getting way to much fuel! I mean look at how cool your EGT is, that in it's self should tell ya....you need to get your fuel pressure down. My setup works fine. and I have 550's. 600's can't be that much bigger, but who knows maybe 550 is the line and you crossed it :)

Ok. I have decided to cut and paste my previous post because it seems to have been missed or ignored and I am adding to it.

Whoa. You guys are getting crazy with these injector sizes and how you are handling them. Am I the only one who thinks these are too big? I still am stuck on the idle and what fuel pressure you would have to run. 20PSI just seems too low. 25PSI is really pushing it IMO too. I think it will seem OK at first, but then cause problems. Such low pressures can effect the spray pattern of the injectors during idle and they may fail to atomize the fuel properly. My understanding is that the injector spray pattern, like at very high psi levels, gets nasty at low psi levels, squirting large gobs of non-atomized fuel into the combustion chambers which doesn't ignite and gets passed out the tailpipe. If you have to bring the pressure that low, then your injectors are too big. The idea behind the Accell is that you swap to a 1:1 regulator and idle at a sane level, like around 45psi on more accurate faster reacting injectors.

Now a few more things. I think the 550's will be ok, BARELY, but they will work. Why? He is keeping the pressure above 30psi. Also recall that when the car is cold the fuel will run richer until it warms up. That could cause a problem with stuttering until it is warm. I would wait till the car is warmed up to drive it. A 440-500 still seems like an ideal size to me. A few potential problems when running large injectors and low fuel pressure - leaking injectors that never seal properly - bad spray patterns - bad mpg - slow injectors trying to dump large amounts of fuel - difficulty just getting it tuned properly. Also be careful of runnign too rich which can actually cause higher egts not lower. When using an injector this large, again I say the ideal setup would be a 1:1 regulator and stock level fuel pressure or else you will end up either way too rich up top or fuel pressure too low on the bottom. Otherwise your injector is just too large.

MuRiX
97 Eclipse GS HRC Stage II
And a whole lot of other mods...
A.D.P.
http://murix.home.icq.com/index.html

I second that. You need to lower your base idle fuel pressure, and lower your boost dependant pressure iser's ratio. Those injectors are just too big.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

ok so if i get a sfmu...it "SHOULD" work, but no guarntees huh, should i just sell the 600s and get some 440's? i really wanted to boost 20psi on the street..but i guess its not gonna happen..its just very frustraiting

Hmm. I'm pretty sure you could boost 20 psi on 440's. I know Chris M. was/is? boosting 18psi, and thats what he is. I mean, if our 235cc injectors can manage to spit out enough fuel for 12psi, I KNOW the 440's can handle 20psi. Dont know about the fuel pressures though, havent done the math/ratios.




"Yes, thats Shaun shooting the finger"

yea but somebody with a star kit said they got hot egt's with 440s at just 15psi of boost.... and another thing, why did the car run at first..and now everytime i start it..it fouls out teh plugs so bad it wont run, but the first 50 miles on the 600s it ran?

Dunno. Maybe you carbonized your catalytic converter and/or fouled something up to the point that it is giving you problems.

Get an SFMU. Drop your fuel pressure at 30-32PSI. Lean it out -50% at 1000RPM. No guarantees, but it might idle then.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

Well I have the Star Stage II kit and I was only able to run 15psi with 440cc injectors. Even 15 was pushing it. Deffidently a no go on 20psi!

Oh and Murix has a Smaller turbo than the star guys.....that's why he can run 17 or 18psi and be fine with 400cc injectors.

DO NOT RUN on the stock regulator at all unless you are trying to blow it up. The stock regulator is not a 1:1 regulator (1psi of fuel pressure for each lb of boost) it is fixed meaning you'll be running the same fuel pressure idling as you will at 6000rpm full boost. If your injectors are big enough to keep from leaning at 45psi fuel pressure and boost(which they probably are to some point of boost) no way your gonna be able to run well out of boost (comnsidering the AFC is already maxed at 50%). I guess they all said it already. Get a regulator with ratio and idle pressure adjustment.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user