I want to know what most of you are doing to break in your new motors. How many miles are you running it to? Basically what are you doing to break it in. Thanks in advance!

My Recomendation to break in a forged piston motor that was all new is to first heat cycle the motor 1-3 times before taking it ona drive,

Heat cycle process:
1) Start car, let it idle for a few seconds then slowly give ir some revs nothing above 2500rpms id say on the first startup,
2) when car hits temp let it run for a few mintues then shut her down,
3) let it cool down completely good hour or so atleast,

4) repeat


After u heat cycle and get the rings to begin the seating process, go take the car for a short drive vary the rpms a bit dont reve over 3500rpms i would recomend.

after the drive let the car cool completely down,


let the car cool completly after each drive for the first 50miles of running the motor, (doesn't much mater to much after that)

change oil at 500miles,
change again at 1500
and at 3k
at 3k id would switch to fully synthetic oil if u weren't usging that in the first place

reason to not use synthetic oil on the first 1-3 changes, mineral oil will not break down or leave deposits being under 3000 miles and its definatly alot cheaper to change then synthetic,

its not a bad thing to start with synthetic just more expensive...

after 3k miles i would say its time to give the motor some beating on but still realise its a new motor,

that is my philosophe on motor breaking in, and ive never blown up a motor due to improper prep or break in, and hope to keep it that way...

I've heard that way of doing it, but I was thinking of going this way with it. (The run it hard right away method)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I know this is controversial, and Bill, being suggested by you, I am inclined to go your way, but has anyone else tried this run it right away method and got burned? got good results?

This question comes up every so often in here and it never really seems like a solid decision is made, so... TIA! :wary

So with my freshly rebuilt motor and lets say that cost is not an issue and I plan on useing sythetic oil can I just use it right from the start?

i've heard not to use synthetic on first startup because there won't be enough friction for your rings to seat properly.

>I've heard that way of doing it, but I was thinking of going
>this way with it. (The run it hard right away method)
>
>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
>I know this is controversial, and Bill, being suggested by
>you, I am inclined to go your way, but has anyone else tried
>this run it right away method and got burned? got good
>results?
>
>This question comes up every so often in here and it never
>really seems like a solid decision is made, so... TIA! :wary

That is the proper way to break in a race engine. It's tried and true by race car builders all over the world. I use this method to break in my engines.

Hum....he's right when he says it's contraversial but what the hell, it made of lot of sense.

How does JE and other piston manufacturers sugest breaking in a new engine?

dougie2 is correct that method of throw it together and run it is a method to build a RACE motor, one that gets broke down and replaced often.

the answer to the synthetic questions is, i have the money to run synthetic off the bat im not because a mineral oil has better break in properties to get the rings broke in right,

I also coat my cylinder walls with power punch basically a old skool assembly trick. let the cylinders soak in the power punch for a day before assembling so if the motor happens to sit before being installed then it will never rust, and it helps the rings to seat just ata slower rate then without the power punch...

I will say that the Race motor method does work and if there are no problems upon startup then the motor SHOULD run properly right out of the box, but that really isn't very nice on the rings, id rather spend of time and let it break in slowly and last longer then blow it up and rebuild it...

Bill

Right on, Bill!

>I also coat my cylinder walls with power punch basically a old
>skool assembly trick. let the cylinders soak in the power
>punch for a day before assembling so if the motor happens to
>sit before being installed then it will never rust, and it
>helps the rings to seat just ata slower rate then without the
>power punch...

You can also use Moly Lube in the cylinders and white lithium grease on the rod bearings.

i have tried teh build it and go method in mtorocycles many times, but i had to rebuild the bike between motos when it ran to elan and burned a hole through a piston so i had to slap it together give it a lap or two around the parking lot and hit the starting gate if that not mean ona motor i dunno what is =)

the method does work just permits premature wear i think,

Bill

power punch????????????????????????????????

I use this white bottle oil stabaliser, can't think of the name of it right now, and let the cyclinders soak in it......hope it works!

Take this post how ever you want to. I believe in breaking it in hard like the link that was posted says as well as this link here...

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74868&highlight=ring+break

In that link, Vapor is one of the local dyno guys and the best hondata tuner there is. HybridSS's Dyno numbers and track times should speak for themselves...


________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com