^^^^^^ (CUT AND PASTE) yeah when they install low comp piston, bearings, rods, new oil pump?

do they lift the motor or just the valve cover? if your just installing low comp pistons and rods at stock bore size, can you just take out the valve cover and whalla your done.

how come new bearings are sold with the bottom end kit? is it neccessary? will the stock bearings not fit with over sized bore at .020, or will the stock bearings fit if the bore for the pistons and rods are the stock size?

what prices should i expect to pay when i pay for the install of just the pistons and rods at stock bore size?

thanks in advance y'all!!!

(AND WHEN THE HELL IS THE J&S COMING OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Well I suppose you could change them in the car with the oil pan dropped and the head off, but I wouldn't. The bearings should not be reused, ever... My feeling on this is if your trying to make power do it right the first time. You don't want to do a real cheap rebuild and then try to make power and blow something because you took a short cut. You want to ballence the assembly and everything else anyway. Even if it's cheap, if you pay it twice it was not worth it.

>>do they lift the motor or just the valve cover? if your just installing low comp pistons and rods at stock bore size, can you just take out the valve cover and whalla your done.

No.. The pistons would have to go in from underneth but the crank will be in the way. You have to pull the head off to put them in from the top.

>>how come new bearings are sold with the bottom end kit? is it neccessary? will the stock bearings not fit with over sized bore at .020, or will the stock bearings fit if the bore for the pistons and rods are the stock size?

Bearings have nothing to do with the pistons themselves. There are some bearings that go on the rods, where they connect to the crank, and then there are some on the block where the crank spins in the block. Bearings are really cheap.. Like the clievit ones are $35 from napa.

>>what prices should i expect to pay when i pay for the install of just the pistons and rods at stock bore size?

Depends really. You could save yourself some money and do it yourself... Learn a few things along the way... Engine rebuilding isn't really hard, if you take the time to read a couple books, and understand what needs to be acurate and what needs to be precise.

thanks in advance y'all!!!

It isn't really possible to put forged pistons in the stock cylinder without boring is it? The cylinder walls get out of tolerance over time, and I was told you HAVE to bore them when you change pistons..


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

You don't HAVE to, it is just smarter to do so... Will last longer that is, and lessens the possibility of a fairly soon oil leak.

My stock motor still had the crosshatching on the cylinder walls when I rebuilt at 60k. If I had stock size forged pistons, I coulda just swapped em in without machining. Most of us buy .020 oversize pistons to make up for the metal that gets shaved away during machining.

It's a very good idea to machine because 1) the rings will seal better (rounder smoother cylinder walls) and make more power and 2) a ridge may form at the top of the piston stroke after many thousands of miles that could break the rings.

How much did machining cost you guys? How long did it take? Was it a local shop, or did you ship it to somewhere?


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

Well i just had xtremers's block machined at VT in Lansing MI. They bored and honed the block using a deck plate, bead blasted it, balanced and blueprinted the entire rotating assembly, and polished the crank for 370.

im my town it costs me about 150$ in machine work (lots of competition)

in my mind unless its a patch up to get the car somewhere or hold off cause your counting pennys, u BORE the block no mater what,

always bore the block have the journals checked, and fully lube the rod and main bearings always replace the bearings in all reality u should grind the crank down one size and use over sized bearings,

there are many things to building a motor properly installing the wrist pins and getting th locks in there the right way, torque patterns on machined parts u need to folow, break in procedures, and othere stuff go to the library and geta couple books on rebuilding a motor should be quite a few for v8's n stuff,

if you want your motor rebuilt remove the block pay for 250-400$ to have the machine shop assemble everything and put it back in the car yourself...

Bill

yah you dont have to bore it out if you don't want to. they say it is better that u you do get an over bore piston and hone the wall, but when i got my engine rehauld, (because i blew a piston) the cylinder wall looked very nice and smooth. the mechanic even inspected, and smoothed the wall for the new forged piston. thats a good thing of having a cast iron block. Wiseco has great forged pistons for our car. It will be marked as Neon 420A 87.5 bore, but i got the 8:5.1 compression..here i go booooooostinnnnnnn.......!!!!!:thumbsup