why is everyone saying SS is the expensive way to go. is there any reason why you cant use nitrous SS line? they say its for fuel also, and ebay has some -6AN 15ft. lengths for around 50.00 new, which is what some post have said is the way to go but costs upwards of 120.00-130.00 clams.

FYI...???

I used hard aluminum fuel line. It's $30.00 for a 25ft. roll. You can use SS braided but it's more expensive and weaker. NOS nitrous/fuel line will work just fine as well.

NOS line is S/S steal braided. is there some type of difference on what others are taliking about?

That's correct... the NOS is SS braided. No difference.

Return line for fuel needs to be at least 6an line. They dont make that big of nitrous lines. Nitrous lines are also nylon wrapped with s/s. The stuff you need is normally 6.90 a ft. However that most expensive parts are the compression fittings you are supposed to use with the s/s line. Sure you could use just regular hose clamps but why do that if you are already spending the money for s/s? If you can find a roll for 50 bucks on ebay I would buy it. And whatever you have left you could use on other things.ie oil cooler,frp,vac lines usually the first to go from the heat is the wastegate.late mike

no, they do make nitrous lines in 6AN. it should be the same stuff as the name brand earls stuff. these already have the AN fittings on them and they are high pressure lines.
heres an example from an ongoing ebay auction

the return doesn't need to be 6AN. the hahn return line is only 1/4", that is 4AN. 4AN for the return will do just fine.

The OD of the return line hose should be 3/8's hose. I dont think I would run 4 an line to the return. And as far as a 6an nitrous line. I dont know of anyone who has needed 6an nitrous line. I sell kits all day from nos, nitrous works,zex,and compucar But I do however have a 6an feed line on my tanks for the fill station at my work. But again I would used 6an fuel line for your return line. Another question for you is how are you going to connect a 4 an line back into the return line on the tank? Its a barb fitting that is about the diameter of 4an. late mike

Hey tim there is aplace that sells the -6AN s/s fuel hose for like $5 a foot. they are near Milwaukee (WI) they are called Pegasus racing. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
check them out that is where i bought my stuff.. they were even cheaper than Aeroquip. They'll have all the hoses and fittings you will need.
hope that helps.

You really should be using hard line instead of stainless line. Technically, I'm pretty sure that using a stainless return line is against NHRA rules at the track...

The only thing illegal about fuel lines is that you cannot run any lenght of plain rbber hose in extent of 12 inches. A real event inspector will remove you from the track if its regular hose and longer than 12 inches. Stainless line is what you see on every dragster on the field. late mike

my only point, regardless of whether it says its for fuel, nitrous or cows milk, is that there is 6AN S/S braided line that costs less than the 130.00 quotes some members have been saying it would cost to run a S/S return line. I will most likely use hard line, i just wanted to let all know there was a much cheaper alternative.

thanks for clearing that up. Cheaper alternatives usually end up doing it right the second time and please answer the question of how you will go from hard line to a nipple(at the return port) late mike

If you are going to do it with a hardline you will either have to hose clamp a rubber hose to it and to either end of the solid pipe. of you will have to insert some kind of fitting and then flare out the pipe end so that it can't slide out. (Like it is on the small pipes going into the tank.)
I only spent about $100 for 23 feet of s/s fuel hose. and the aluminum fittings are like $5 a piece. but you can always go with steel ones that are like $2 a piece.

>>> please answer the question of how you will go from hard line to a nipple(at the return port) late mike<<<

As you said you can't have more than 12" of rubber. All you need to do is bridge the gap from hardline to the nipple with anything less than 12" of rubber fuel line.

Russel makes AN fittings for hard line that don't require flaring the hose... you can get them at summitracing.com

rubber hose about 4 inches long 2 hose clamps =patchwork. I would never install this on a friends/enemys car. late mike

Alright kids, this was not posted to be a point of contention or battle of wills.
rpm97talon: your posts are getting a bit aggresive sounding and im starting to get a little torqed:

<<<<" Cheaper alternatives usually end up doing it right the second time and please answer the question of how you will go from hard line to a nipple(at the return port) late mike">>>>

15ft. of S/S braid for $50.00 is not a cheaper "alternative" to 15ft. of $130.00 S/S braid, its just CHEAPER!!!! S/S braid is S/S braid!!!
as far as how i will get from hard line to nipple, if they dont make a fitting, i will problem solve and modify!! i dont know yet, cause i havent doen it yet!!! Hence the searching about retun lines!!!!

<<<<"rubber hose about 4 inches long 2 hose clamps =patchwork. I would never install this on a friends/enemys car. late mike">>>>

well whoopty-fuckin-do for you, you dont need to flame those who ahve done it and done it succesfully!
And If thats patch work, then you better go thru 1/2 of your car and redo all those lines cause those "dont know a thing" factory guys forgot to check for your opinion before makin our cars and are cutting some serious corners!!

This was posted because i searched a large number of the archives on this topic trying to set up my own NOT YET SET UP fuel system, and many people wanted a S/S braided line for a return, but were almost collectivly saying it would cost $130.00 or more to do it. My only intent for this post was to offer a fresh perspective. Im not concerned with how many NOS kits you sell, and just because you dont use 6AN S/S braided line, dosent mean it doesn't exist or cant be used for a retun line. SEE PIC ABOVE!
people on this board are using both hard line and S/S braid without issue. Its a preference thing, i just wanted to show a less expensive way to do it.

Stop being so confrontational about it, it you dont have anything constructive or helpful to say in the topic, shut the hell up and let those who are interested learn something!

you have no fucn idea how much you could learn from me. As far as 6an line yes they do make it bro. And for you to try to flame me? haha How many nitrous kits I sell? Thats not the point. The point is 6an nitrous line (nylon with 2 female fittings) You are going to need like 2 adapters to return that to the tank? please correct me if I'm wrong but i dont think they make a 6an male to a nipple the same diameter of the tank nipple to put your adapt and overcome method on. I understand how you can take my suggestions and turn them into rude comments towards you. I am a harsh person when it comes to the 420a turbo set up from fuel to nitrous. Do you know why? Because I set this shit all up by myself before i knew of the board. That also means I didnt want to deal with trial and error. If you wanna know the way to set up your fuel the right way cheap? DONT DO IT. The whole fuel set up on my car is well into the 1200 mark. let me break it down for you. 1) custom (my design)Fuel rail w/ 3/8 npt outlets 200$. 2)370 cc rc injectors 300$. 3) apexi afc 400$. 4) magna flow fpr 140$. 5) s/s lines and fittings 200$. 6)holley fuel pump 130$. Listen bro flame me all you want I really dont care people know me for my work not my words and as far as the next time you go to fuc with someone please understand that I have tried to sell whole kits to people on the board but what it boils down to is money. If a person isnt going to go to the track and compete in a real event just buy regular rubber hose? Thats super cheap. But as far as having pride in your car. maybe thats my problem I view a persons car as a direct reflection upon themselves. Maybe another problem of mine is that my car is my advertisement. If someone were to see your adapt and overcome method? they wouldnt call me back. Thats bad for buisness I make house calls to numerous clients from my shop. a few examples? nsx's, r32 skyline, corvettes , pro street drag cars, supras, harleys, and of course dsms both factory turbo and non. So as far as you making this worthless little bite back at me and especially not even having a fuel set up of your own? Your comments are enough to get my laugh of the day. late mike

your right! i have no idea how much i could learn from you. from the way you have demonstrated your teaching technique, the day i need to learn from you is the day i sell my eclipse and buy a moped!

Congrtu-fuking-lations to you and you accomplishments! Im sure your proud. However, that dont mean you can come on this board as a relative noob (regardless of what you know and have done) and be a prick to those of us who are trying to be helpful and or learn something. most of us aint driving a mobile advertisement, nor are we concerned with NHRA regs, or doing it the most expensive way. We are into building our cars the best we can with what we got! Period! We dont need know it-alls like you coming on here runnin your mouth shootin down our shit because it dont meet your personal quality level. you aint gonna make friends on this board that way.
My aplogies to you for any perceived flaming, and my apologies to those on this board who know me enough to know i dont flame.

Im done with this back and forth shit.

For those that it applies to: 6AN S/S braided line long enough for a return line, can be had for around 50.00 with fittings, not the 130.00+ some have believed. period.

ok KIds no need to get all worked up about it.
Rpmtalon, the set up you have is pretty much the set up I have with ah few exceptions and mine is not nearly as expensive as yours came out to be.
fuel rail $150
23 feet for s/s fuel line -6AN $100 (about)
fittings ($35) about
SFMU $300
SAFC $200
fuel pump (came with the turbo kit)
all in all I think I have a set up of the same quality for much cheaper.
as far as clamping the hose, yeah there might be better ways of doing it, but there are some of us just clamping stuff and running pretty high pressures with no prob.
You obviously have a high end set up, but no need to bash the others that have used simpler YET very effective set ups also.

I TIM was just merely trying to get across the point that we can also have good set ups for cheaper, by just merely in this case finding the same kind of hose for a much cheaper price.

I think both of you have good points, but lets keep our minds open to new suggestions and discuss, not bash.

wow was that cheesy LOL.
:thumbsup

tim97rs. you have some growing up to do. Moped huh well yes I have a go ped and yep its got nos on it it does about 40 so bring your moped we'll run. And as far as calling me a noob?? haha we'll just leave it at that. And as far as help from me/ ever heard of laser cutting. I think your little shifter cover would come out alot cleaner looking than your tin snip job. just some advise. late mike

Mike,
i do aplolgize to you. I had a bad day and it came out on here. Some stuff i said may not have been cool, again i apologize. You are entitiled to your opinions and i can respect that. Im not interested in fighting back and forth. its like someone said "fighting on the internet is like the special olympics, even if you win your still retarded", so im done. I apologize to you and will make ya a nice deal on a shifter plate!!! :-)

Tim,
Can we get into an argument so that I can get a good deal on a shift plate too? :D
-=B-= <=====wiseass mode ON

>>>rubber hose about 4 inches long 2 hose clamps =patchwork. I would never install this on a friends/enemys car.<<<

Just because you wouldn't install it doesn't mean it's not a perfectly fine way to do it. 4" of rubber as part of a line that has nearly no pressure. Big deal. Not everyone has money to blow on expensive fittings and lines when you don't have to. My aluminum hardline and "patchwork" works just fine and I gaurantee I'll never have any problems with that tiny section of hose.