I did search and read most of the missing link posts, but couldnt find the right information that I was looking for.


I know this is simple, but I need some help.

Could some one please explain how to install it?

Where is the factory MAP Sensor, and is the factory map sensor what goes ontop of it? Is it on the intake manifold? I was looking but could not find it.

Where is Hahns black box, am I suppose to remove this after installing the missing link?

If im asking all these stupid questions, should I even be trying to put it in?

TIA

The map sensor bolts to the top of the intake manifold on the left end. Unbolt the map sensor, put the missing link on the manifold, then bolt the map sensor to the top of it. Like this.....



For the Hahn "black box" FCD, it should be tapped into the wires that are coming off of the stock map sensor, so you just need to disconnect it.

Wow, thanks alot for the pic. I think I got it in, but I have the 2 smaller washers left over. Where did you put those? Now for the black box, do I just cut the wires or what?

>Wow, thanks alot for the pic. I think I got it in, but I have
>the 2 smaller washers left over. Where did you put those? Now
>for the black box, do I just cut the wires or what?

I think the washers went at the very top of the screw to hold better. Check the instructions for the Missing Link and it'll tell you where they go.

And yes, just cut the wires for the black box. Just make sure you tape them so they don't touch! :P

I'll put another picture on and move this to "Things we've seen before".

*edit - forgot I'm not a moderator of this forum, someone else can move it :P*

Thanks for all the help. Just got home from diriving it around and was reading a bit.. Then I realized I forgot to disconnect the battery for a minute. Just ran out there and did it. That wont cause any sort of problem that I drove around before disconnecting it will it?

TIA

Ok, I must of messed somthing up. I took it for another drive after I disconnected the battery. Every thing was going fine, then I start smelling coolant. I look down ant my engine temp is near the H. So I pull off the road and pop the hood. The coolant overflow bottle is full and some has overflowed, I just stood there for a minute, and the bottle started to go down. I got back in the car and the engine temp was back to normal. I drove the rest of the way home ( like 2 mins away )pop the hood and the overflow bottle is empty now. What could of caused my engine to over heat so fast? Did I put the thing on backwards? Is that possible?!

The ML should have no effect at all on your engine temperature. I honestly can't think of any possible situation where a check valve could have caused such an issue and you're still able to drive.

If the ML completely disabled your MAP sensor, it wouldn't allow your car to run, much less have it overheat. Therefore, I would only assume the ML worked properly, and your overheating problem was associated to a thermostat or an electrical issue.

This is probably the most basic question you could get in a thread like this - but what is the missing link and what does it do? I see threads on thing everywhere.

.
Yes officer, the windows are mirrored.

1999 GS Special Edition

The missing link is a check valve to keep your MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor from seeing boost (positive pressure) in your intake manifold. Our cars we're designed for a non-turbo application, therefore this MAP sensor also wasn't intended to see positive pressure in the manifold. Adding a turbocharger creates positive pressure, and the sensor reports this, and the ECU initiates a fuel cut because it doesn't know what's going on. The missing link is a valve that stops the sensor from seeing any positive pressure, and fixes the fuel cut issue when boosting.

The Hahn Racecraft "black box" included with their kits actually alters the voltage coming from the sensor, so it fools the ECU to think that there is no positive pressure. Why use a missing link instead? Well, the sensor uses a diaphragm of sorts. This wasn't meant to see any high levels of pressure, and can be destroyed over long term boosted applications. The Missing Link keeps this from happening. A lot cheaper than replacing your MAP sensor.

Anyone who has anything to add, or correct me of anything, feel free to do so.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

Wow!! That was a totally awesome explanation. It's nice to find people on the board every once in while that can clear it up the first time. Thanks man, points for you for taking the time. I am just working on installing a HRC stage II with FMIC, so I gather from your info it's not something I need to do right now, but should look to do in the future. Certianly looks easy enough to install ... and they are only like 55 bucks did I read somewhere?

.
Yes officer, the windows are mirrored.

1999 GS Special Edition

Glad it helped you. Just wish I had a need for a Missing Link right now... the kit I'm buying comes with one, thankfully. Should be boosting in about 4 weeks. Let's just hope my clutch holds up...

Edit: Forgot to mention that the price is about 55 dollars or so for the missing link. And, the black box that comes with the Hahn kit is notorious for failing. Seems like every day someone else's goes out. Deffinately grab yourself a ML when you get some extra cash.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

why can't you leave the hahn black box in with the missing link.

Well, for one there is absolutely no need to have both. Secondly, the black box would likely screw with the map voltage because it thinks the map sensor is seeing boost, which it won't with a missing link.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana