Well..... I was on my way to work last night and while driving, I noticed my BOV wasnt really going off. It was like fluttering. Humm.... So I keep driving and my Service Engine Soon light came on? So I get to work and take off the + and - from the battery. Several hours later, I put them back on and drive home. My SES light didnt come back on, but my bov was still fluttering. All my gauges are working right and still reading the same. So.... what do you think I should do?

What type of BOV do you have?? Is it adjustable? If so, loosen the spring a little bit and see if that fixes the fluttering. Also, make sure you don't have a boost leak anywhere.

For the Service Engine Soon light, if it comes on again just take the car to Autozone and have them pull the code so you know what's wrong.

I have the greddy type s bov. But the thing is..... it was working just fine for the last couple weeks Ive had it on. I dont know why all of a sudden it flutters?

Yeah, then something in your setup changed. Like I said, check for a boost leak. If you BOV is setup to blowoff at say 10psi, but you have a boost leak so you're really only blowing off 7psi, the BOV could be set too strong for 7psi so it's fluttering.

Yeah that sounds sort of like a boost leak. Something similar to that happened to me. No CEL but the BOV sounded like a bird was trapped under my hood flapping around. Listen for a leak.

Well...... I took off my greddy type s bov and put the 3000gt bov that came with the kit on. Thinking that the bov might be the problem. Went for a drive and its still fluttering? x( So I did the leak test where I had air go in my turbo and throughout the system. I did hear a very small leak, but it was a very minor leak. Theres no way that it could cause that much loss. So im still confuzed :wary Would fuel have anything to do with it? Whats wrong? I cant find anything wrong. And everything is running the same, but just the bov flutters now. Help!

most bov's need to be "tightened" or adjusted so that the spring isn't opening as easy...w/ the rfl you add washers, w/ the super sequential you screw in the knob tighter...by tighting the spring you not allowing it to open as easy and "flutter"...i dont have any experience w/ the type s, i assume its close to the hks ss but just reversed in design from what i'm told...see if you can add tension to the spring, see if that helps, normally does

I just thought of something else. The Greddy Type S has 2 vacuum lines, the 2nd acting as a vacuum assist to open if desired. How is your BOV set up now? Are you using the vacuum assist line?

The lower vacuum port on the type s is supposed to be left to open atm. The top one is supposed to be hooked up to a vacuum line to help open the valve when the car goes into vacuum, and help keep it closed when the car is under boost (equalizes the pressure on both sides of the BOV piston). Make sure that the vacuum line that runs to the valve isnt kinked or leaking, and if that doesn't fix it, then try adjusting the valve. The way that I adjusted mine was to start the car and let it idle. Loosen the adjustment screw on the BOV as far as you can until the valve starts to leak. Then tighten the adjustment screw in a few turns so that it doesnt leak at all under vacuum.

If the above technique doesn't work, my brother just added that he had the exact same problem as you have. All he did was tighten the adjustment screw on the top and it took care of it.

Just find the vac leak.. Mine makes a funky fluttering sound when I get a leak anywhere in my vac system... Good luck.. Use a stethescope.. that may help.

Well...... I got the problem solved! :7 All I did was tighten the hell out of everything I could tighten and now it works! But when I was tightening things, everything seemed pretty tight. Drove around on the 3000gt bov, and it worked. So I swaped it for the greddy and it works good too!