I am having some problems with the 8 injector setup at the moment. Its kind of strange because it works great for up to about 10 psi of boost, but after there it leans out real bad (at least I think it does). From 0 to 10 psi, my egts stay right around 1500 deg, but if i put the pedal down and boost 13, i get a huge hesitation (feels like fuel cut but I have a 95) and then it will just pull very very hard and the egts just shoot up to 1600.

Corbin, I was wondering if you could maybe post or send me a pic of a screen shot of what you are setting your matrix to. My scaler is at about 6.3 with stock injectors in the primary, 30 lb accel injectors in the secondary, 48 lbs of fuel pressure with the aeromotive 1:1. I tried to increase the scaler higher, and the car started to stall out and I could smell gas real bad, so I assume that it was flooding since I didnt find any leaks. The only other thing that I can think of that would cause these symptoms would be that the knock sensor it torqued down too tight. I heard that if that sensor is torqued down over 7 ft lbs that it will detect knock when it isnt really there and pull out timing (accounts for the egts). I dunno... I need a good weekend to sit down with this thing and get all the kinks worked out.

TIA for anyone who can give me some good input.

Hey Matt, I had a similar sensation with a fuel cut type of problem when really boosting hard.

This was my problem:

Apparently, due to situations when there is a great thrust of boost that's put upon the MAP sensor within the controller, it sort of freaks out the MAP sensor.

I did two things to remedy this issue. One, I adjusted the MAP rate sensitivity (or whatever that query is) to like 75(I just chose a really high number and went with it). I haven't yet seen any particular issue with making the MAP sensor really sensitive. From my perspective, I take that sensitivity range to help make the MAP sensor better able to take on large fluctuations of boost in a short amount of time. The second thing I did was to put inline with the vacuum line that leads to the EIC controller was that 2-way metal nipple that softens the boost effect on the opposite side. I'm sorry I forgot the name of this piece, but it came with the Vortech SFMU. If you blow through one end, it comes out with less of an air rush on the other side.

After taking the above steps, I no longer had any more issues with the "fuel cuts." I'll bet your problem is the same as mine. Again, it only happened with me (which was all the time) when I really jumped on the gas, causing a lot of boost forced down the throttle at once, rather than a gradual boost rise.

Matt, i think i have an extra vacuum restrictor Jason is talking about. I'll hook you up with it (least i can do hehe)

sweeeet, thanks Matt! Also, thanks for the input jason, ill give it a try.

I bet Jason's recommendations will solve your problem. I think I'll get one of those restrictors too.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I will be feeding my EIC boost signal via an MSD boost sensor, do you think I will need the same part?

Kirby, maybe I don't understand all there is about the MSD boost sensor, but I'm pretty sure you have to feed a vaccuum line directly to the EIC unit in order for it to see boost. You have to supply it to the hose coming out of the unit.

If I can't find a restrictor - wouldn't a smaller vaccuum feed line do the same trick or is there something internally special about this restrictor? Just wondering.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

wouldn't a smaller vacume line just make it push that air ata faster rate(velocity) down it not neccisarily lower the pressure??

I'm acctually getting mine redone with external wireing so I can have a 3 bar sensor. Do you still think it would be an issue?

Hey, that's cool Kirby. I guess Javad is doing that for you? Still don't know what to tell you about the MSD sensor. I would probalby just use it like MSD says to and then see what happens.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

The restictor is basically a pice of metal about 1.25" long, that has a hose barb on each end, to put it inline with the boost line. At one end, the opening is about 1.5 mm or so, and the opposite end's opening is about .5 mm or so. Here is a crappy pic

Thanks for the measurements. That helps.

And MotoFool, the intent is not to lower the pressure - you need the sensor to see the proper manifold pressure. This is a dead end vaccuum circuit - there is no flow output. I think the real concern in a circuit like that is the speed of pressure equalization at the end of the circuit(on the sensor). Like Jason said - it only happens when he mashed it and got alot of boost all of the sudden. A restrictor like the one mentioned above splits the vaccuum/boost feed line into 2 resaviors of pressure - one on the sensor side of the restrictor and one on the manifold side of it, allowing the pressure to equalize at a slower rate than if the restrictor was not in place. The best analogy I can think of is that it's like filling up a tire. Essentially the tire's air valve is like a restrictor. Lets say you have 45 psi in a big giant air tank(likened to the manifold side of the restrictor) and 30 psi in your tire(likened to the pressure sensor side of the restrictor). Attach the air line to the tire and the pressure will go as high as that in the tank(45 psi). If the air tank only had 40 psi - the tire would equalize to 40 psi. The air valve(restrictor) can only flow so much cfm so the pressure equalizes at a certain rate. If the tire had a bigger air valve - it would fill quicker(the pressure would equalize quicker). The last quirk about the tire analogy has to do with volume - a bicycle tire will equalize much quicker than a car tire because of the volume of air required to equalize the pressure.

Anyways, this is how the measurements helped me. The hose on the EFI has a 5/32" ID. I was thinking that using a 1/16" line from the manifold source and a 5/32" x 1/16" reducer copuling to the EFI may have been enough to buffer the pressure change...but the smallest ID that I've been able to find on a coupler like that is .047" or ~1mm. That might do the trick, but its still twice the size of the Vortech restrictor. I guess if that doesnt work then I could "make the tire bigger", by using a 5/32" line from the EFI to the manifold source and put that same 5/32" x 1/16" reducer at the manifold source. So basically the ~1mm restriction would be at the manifold source, but the rest of the line to the EFI would be 5/32"(~4mm).


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html