Hey guys. I installed my stage 1 kit (AUTO 98 GS) and I am experiencing VERY high EGT's. When I am driving I floor it and the EGT's jump to 1500 (is think it downshifts to 2nd gear) and then goes down a little during the shift. Then after the shift (which I think is 3rd gear) it goes to 1600 quickly and I have to let off.
**If I remember correctly, the EGT are at like 1250 when I am driving regularly.

Any ideas why?

Also, when I tried to turn the radio on for the first time, the radio wouldn't turn on. All it says is "CODE". There is no CEL and I searched on how to do the keydance but I think you need a CEL to get codes, right? I did it and no codes came up. I'm confused as hell.

COuld the 2 be linked?

What are your fuel pressures at idle, and under full boost? Sounds like you are running too lean. And for the radio code, that happened when you disconnected your battery. Unless you have the code, then a trip to the dealer is required.

Ok... well I don't have an interior fuel pressure gauge but at idle the gauge in the engine reads 30PSI. I have the SFMU also and the instructions say 38-40 PSI so that has to what's causing it.

As for fixing it.... I got help from someone else doing the install and I was doing the gauges while he finished up the fuel system. He did tell me I would have to adjust.... I forgot he told me that. Anyway, for the SFMU all you need is an allen key right? I can see the allen hole in the static knob. Before I go and try to turn the thing, I just wanted to make sure that's how you adjust it. Do I need to loosen that big nut or just turn with an allen key? Also, I am assuming clockwise increases and counter decreases pressure? Just making sure before I try. Thanks.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/pdf/manuals/superfmuim.pdf





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30 psi at idle is WAY too little fuel. You want to run about 47-55 psi of fuel at full idle vacuum. Loosen the adjustment lock nut, then turn the adj screw IN, this will raise up the fuel pressure. You fuel pressures under boost should be around 85 psi at 6 psi boost, and around 105 psi at 8 psi boost.

oh shit 30 psi low man.. follow what he ^^^ said. overall your egt wont get as high as quick but still it will get high on long pulls. just adjust idle to 47-55psi .make sure you got the dark short spring and the biggest disk inside the super-fmu for stock injectors.
that should do it bro...hehe
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

well i dont have the sfmu i'm running an aeromotive 1:1 w/ my 8 inj setup and i've noticed anything above 45 will net me some troubles in the partial throttle acceleration...my car will run lean for a second according to my blink show autometer but then when i give it more gas its goes instantly rich..when i turned down the pressure to 45ish it got better but its still present a little...i asssume from the bogging down at partial that i'd be getting to much fuel at partial throttle b/c of the higher fuel pressures..what do you guys think..am i seeing to high of fuel pressures or is the fpr not reacting fast enough to the change in vacuum...btw at 30 psi your walbro should be whining like a son of a bitch, at least mine did..then i turned it up and its liveable....what do you guys think about the bogging?? to high fp or slow transition in vacuum???thanks

Follow XtremeRS's pressures (they fall within HRC's recommendations). I would use the dark, heavy spring and 2.72" disk (second largest) for 6 psi. Then look at your EGT's again.

As for the 8 Inj setup:
I'm always playing with settings. Most recently, I am running about 24 psi at idle with 24lb injectors. I had to bump up the injector scaler to deal with the lower pressure. I also increased the numbers in the matrix about 5% for anything above 3-4 psi boost. So, I run richer at higher boost. I then raised the point where the EIC starts injecting. Its now like 7 kPa above atmospheric. That seems to help my part throttle and near boost driving. I used to get that same bog (looks lean on A/F) right before 0 boost. I think its actually way rich and drowns the O2 sensor right when the secondaries kick in. So, if you move the point where the secondaries kick in well above atmospheric, you ensure that the turbo is spooling and the engine is ready for the extra fuel. Maybe thats BS, but it seems to work. I may actually raise that point up some more soon.



Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Mine's way up there already, Corbin.

I think I'm close to 15kPa's where the boost kicks in.

cool, i'll try to mess w/ the the software and see if i can get a smoother transition..i was almost considering using the voltage clamp vc1 thing as a secondary for my missing link, as kind of a back up..i don't think it would hurt, just a little added safety..i'm not using the damn thing so i might as well...i'll have to play w/ the kpa level a little, i assume w/ the 1:1 fpr i'm getting more than adequate fp at partial boost and you know our car runs a little rich stock as is so i wonder if something like an afc could help out a partial throttle..i doubt i'll go spend 300 bucks on that thing but it would be nice to see if that could make the fuel curve damn near perfect low end w/ the eic kicking in a nice curve under boost...i think my problem is probably the kpa my secondaries begin..i just hooked up my power inverter by hardwiring it to the cig lighter so i can have the guy that car pools w/ me play w/ the settings..i was able to even out my egts by adding like 10 percent more fuel up top of the matrix...i like this unit a lot

Apologies for the threadjack...

I wouldn't use the VC1; the ML will be plenty. Don't worry about a S-AFC either. You can tune the part throttle pretty well with the base fuel pressure. Consider getting a boost restrictor like Jason mentioned in another thread. I think I'll call Vortech to get one myself. I know you can get everything running right if you play with all the settings. We're only coming up on the 1 yr aniversary of this system, so we're still learning.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I just got a few more questions:

1) The 3.62 disk is the one that comes in the S-FMU from the factory, right?

2) I plan to do what Corbin suggested and use the dark spring with the second largest (2.72) disk. How do I swap them disk and spring out? Is there anything comlicated about it? I just want to know before I go and open it up. There's going to be gas inside the lines so would it be OK to put paper towles under the S-FMU to absorb the gas that will leak out. Can someone give me a nice, quick overview on how to switch them? thanks in advance.

>1) The 3.62 disk is the one that comes in the S-FMU from the
>factory, right?

Yep, thats it

>2) I plan to do what Corbin suggested and use the dark spring
>with the second largest (2.72) disk. How do I swap them disk
>and spring out? Is there anything comlicated about it? I
>just want to know before I go and open it up. There's going
>to be gas inside the lines so would it be OK to put paper
>towles under the S-FMU to absorb the gas that will leak out.
>Can someone give me a nice, quick overview on how to switch
>them? thanks in advance.

You actually don't have to disconnect the fuel lines. You just need some slack in the lines so you can move the S-FMU around. Unhook the vacuum line and unscrew the static fuel pressure screw to relieve pressure on the internal spring. Then unscrew the allen bolts that hold the two halves of the S-FMU together. It will try to spring apart, so you will have to hold the halves together while unscrewing the last bolts. Hold the unit so that the halves split along the horizontal. Carefully separate the halves so that the springs and washers inside balance on the lower half. Note how the washers and springs are stacked. Swap springs or disks and squeeze the unit back together. Screw the allen bolts back in. Screw the static adjustment screw in enough to apply some pressure to the springs inside. Reattach the vacuum line and bolt the S-FMU back into place. You will need to reset the idle fuel pressure when you fire the car up. Boost slowly to verify that the S-FMU is raising pressure like you need it.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Hey Corbin,

I did what you said. I put the 2.72 disk in and the black spring. I went out to test and i still have basically the same situation. When I am at WOT from about 30MPH (and the auto downshifts to I guess 2nd gear) I almost reach 4K RPM when I'm already at 1600 EGT's. I know that is definitely too high. I tuned it to 50 PSI at idle (I don't have an in dash fuel pressure gauge).

There has to be something else wrong. Possibly my set up? This sucks though.... :(

RobotechDSM was having this same problem. I can't remember now if he has the 3inch or 2.72 disk but he was getting to 1600 before he could even get through 2nd gear. I increased his Static pressure to 52 from 47 and it's staying cooler now. Turns out his LTFT was around 24% at idle but now it's staying around 4 - 7% You may want to try this.


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did your fuel pressure go up?? If it did, then the SFMU is working properly, but my first guess is the Voltage clamp is not working properly(FCD). I had similar issues with my o2 voltages, they were too lean, and even upping the fuel pressure almost 20 psi, had no effect. Turns out the FCD was clamping my MAP voltage too low, causing my fuel injectors to run a lower duty cycle(not enough fuel). Put in the missing link, and solved my problems. Your fuel pressure at idle is around 47-55 psi right?? Lay the HRC fuel pressure gauge under the wiper, then close the hood, so you can see your fuel pressure while driving. If the fuel line to your gauge isnt long enough, then get a longer one to do it. Thats how i always tuned my setup until i got the inside electrical gauge.

Fast420A:
Can you explain what this means, I'm not really sure:

"Turns out his LTFT was around 24% at idle but now it's staying around 4 - 7% You may want to try this."

What is an LTFT?? Thanks.


XtremeRS:

I already have the missing lnik installed so I guess that isn't a problem. But my pressure is a 50PSI right now. I'll get longer tubing and I'll relocate the fuel pressure gauge and see what's up. What pressure should I be at for WOT?

LTFT is Long Term Fuel Trims. You need a datalogger to find this out.
STFT is Short Term

The Fuel pressure at WOT isn't as important as the fuel pressure at the particular boost levels.



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Actually fuel pressure is VERY important at WOT, since the ECU cannot adjust fuel trims for extra air in the cylinders, when boost is applied to the mix. At WOT, the ecu is in open loop, where it resorts to pre programmed fuel maps to inject fuel, and does not adjust fuel off of the o2 sensor. Fuel pressure alone is what will give you more or less fuel at WOT. If you are running 5 psi, then shoot for fuel pressure to be around 85 psi. You will need to monitor your EGT's and make sure it goes to no more than 1550 degrees(before the turbo exaust temps).

LTFT is the ecu's fuel adjustment "headroom". It goes from +25% to
-25%. When LTFT is at -25%, this means that the ecu is leaning out the fuel mix 25% over the stock programmed fuel map ( 0 %). This happens over longer duration, which is why its called LTFT.

STFT is the ecu's instant fuel adjustment percentage. This will tell you exactly what the ecu is doing with your fuel at any given point in time. Reading a datalogger while driving, lets say your STFT is at -15% while you are lightly boosting, not at WOT. This means that the ecu is adjusting and leaning out your fuel by 15% from the stock programmed fuel trim ( 0 % ). STFT will constantly be changing with different engine conditions, but should stay from +5 to - 5 % for best ecu adjustment capability. Its this reason that having your STFT maxxed out to -25% isnt good, becasue now the ecu is leaning out your fuel as much as it can, and you will run rich, and throw a CEL code. Then if your motor goes from leaning out that much, to a instant demand of needing more fuel than the stock fuel map, the ecu may not be able to go into the + numbers fast enough, and then you can run lean. Positive #'s means the ecu is adding fuel over the stock fuel map. Hope this makes sense. YOu basically want your STFT to stay between +5 and -5 for the best, but realistically, anywhere from -15 to +15 would be ok, but that would be the limit for tuning IMO.

You did put the ring around the 2.72" disk right?? The largest disk the SFMU comes with does NOT have a ring around it, but all smaller disks have a ring that goes with it, so be sure you have the ring around the disk, i assume you do, just checking :) The proper ring will have a 1/4" gap from the ring to the outer edge of the 2.72" disk.

>Actually fuel pressure is VERY important at WOT, since the
>ECU cannot adjust fuel trims for extra air in the cylinders,

but if you understand what I am saying, the fuel pressure needs to go up with boost, not with Throttle position. He asked what should his FP be at WOT, that's not going to work out that way because it depends on what boost he is at when he goes WOT. If the FP went up when you went to WOT at low RPM then you would bog down until the boost went up and you have a good mix of air and fuel. We are basically saying the same thing but the important factor isn't when you go WOT the FP goes up, it's when the boost goes up, so does the FP. Did we ever find out what his FP was at full boost?









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XtremeRS

No I didn't put the ring in. I guess I didn't look at the manual closely. Which one do you use. There is an actual ring and then there is on kind of like a ring that allows you to rest a disk inside it. ???????? Thanks.

Nevermind what I just posted, I'm an idiot. But Do I just slip the disk into the ring and replace? I'll go try that now.

Ok guys
Got the dark, hard spring in with the 2.72 disk and ring. No change from before. :-( Can you guys list possible problems and then list possible remedies? I found a fellow 2gnter who lives only 1 minutes away from me. Hopefully if you guys can help me out with a list of psoobile causes I can ask him to help me out if he can. Thanks.

PS - By the way, just in case you need to know.... my idle is at about 50PSI fuel pressure, 8500F idle temp., and my digital AF gauge says fluctuates around .810 (I think it's too low, right?), running 5 PSI boost.
Also, I don't know if it is possible but.... I have the Autometer pyrometer EGT gauge and the team rip probe. Could that be incompatible and be causing a problem? Just checking. I have it tapped right in the middle of the manifold where the cylinder runners meet.

You NEED to see what your fuel pressures are under 5 psi boost. No way around it. .81 o2's is WAY lean at WOT. If you are not at WOT, then the A/F voltage will fluctuate, and not read constant. The A/F gauge will only read accurately if at WOT. You idle fuel pressure should be around 47-55 psi. At 5 psi boost, your fuel pressure should be around 80-90 psi. You want your EGT's at WOT 5 psi boost, to be around 1550 degrees, no more. If your EGT's are going over that, then you need more fuel. If they are staying no more than 1475, then you need less fuel. o2's at WOT should read around .93-.94 to be safe. You have the HRC inline fuel pump right? You should be able to hear the whine if its working right. Where did you get the vacuum/boost signal for the SFMU top lid?? Your fuel return line is connected to the bottom port on the SFMU right? The side port is connected to the fuel rail test port right?

I just need to state that high egt's can also be caused by low timing. Everyone always speaks of fuel but low timing can also cause high egts.

How would i tell if i have low timing and how do i fix it?

>How would i tell if i have low timing and how do i fix it?

Using a datalogger, you can see what your timing advance is. I normally see about 15-17 degrees advance as soon as i go into boost. Really, the only other way timing will go lower than that, is if your knock sensor is seeing knock, but our knock sensors do a whole lot of noting really, so its very unlikely that you will have real low timing. Your timing at idle is very low though, but that is normal. I believe its in the single digits of advance if i rember right.

Ok. Today I finally did what you suggested XtremeRS. I extended the fuel pressure gauge so it sticks out of the hood. Teh only slight prob was that it is drizzling today and I couldn't put the wipers on while driving or else they would get caught up with the gauge.

Anyways, I went from a stop to WOT. I had to let off by the middle of second gear (auto tranny remember). I had my brother reading the gauge and he said it was past 80PSI and heading towards 90. That was at close to 4K RPM in 2nd gear so I think the pressure under boost is good. I will try again when it is dry, but I'd say it is between 80-90 PSI under boost. I can't go much faster anyway cause the EGT start rising.

Try raising your idle fuel to 55 psi and see what happens. Sounds like you need just a bit more fuel. Has it ever reached 1600? or did you back off cause it was getting close? It is ok to reack 1600,but i'd say def dont go past that. You being an auto tranny, there is a slightly greater load on the engine, a more constant load too over a MTX tranny, so you may just need a bit more fuel pressure. Just watch your EGT gauge closely when testing. If you can keep it from reaching 1600, then that will be fine. I like to see about 1550-1570 EGT's at WOT personally.

yeah it actually does reach 1600. I have it at 50 PSI. should I just try to increase it to like 60 PSI and see if that dramatically decreases EGT'?. Then I'll know if I have to fine tune it, I think. I'll raise it and get back to you.