Man...the turbo bug is biting and it wont let go!!

I finally have the funds to get a turbo. Only prob is i just recently(4 months) ago...got a new engine. My belt fucked on the old one and kabloom. Anyway, i went with a Jasper engine and it has a 3yr 75k warranty on it.

But i really....and can finally...afford a turbo.

So my questions is....would you go turbo and void the warranty? I've been trying to read more on turbos and from what I gather..if I go stage 1....my engine should handle it fine. I see people saying you should have no problems at 8psi if you tune it right. What exacatly do you mean by tune?

i am no expert but i to still have 2 years on my warranty. what i plan is just getting stock replacements for the stuff you got to modify (oil pan, down pipe) so at least if you have a major problem, you can uninstall the turbo and take it to them.

when they say tune, it means that getting enough fuel their. like using the af gauge to see how rich you are, egt are below 1600f, boost is within spec and not getting boost spike.

imo, from seeing a couple of guys here blowing their motor, i take extra steps, like getting 310cc injects, even if your only on stage one, sfmu (cause the cartech doesn't always hold the fuel pressure and fuel is everytihing in a turbo), and even on stage one, spend an extra 200 for a 1g smic with costom bent piping. just in case.

>Man...the turbo bug is biting and it wont let go!!
>
You have to admit that with the mod bug alot of people are getting denied for claims these days. But I thought they had to prove it? :wary I am curious what belt went? The timimg belt? I went turbo when my factory 3 year was done. I don't know in your case. You just can't ever tell cause all engines react different to turbo. If you are going turbo, stage 2 should be the choice. And always better to have extra money for the unexpected. And also for the things that will break and mods that will help; gauges, clutch, exhaust, etc.


http://www.cardomain.com/id/jasvbts2k2
"The ONLY Honda I'd mod would be ASIMO"

If you go turbo get the hrc stage 2 with fmic, a vortech sfmu, missing link, a/f and egt gagues. Then take a week off work and read everything in this turbo forum before you start. :thumbsup I think HRC has the best kit, but i would strongly reccomend piceing the kit togeather to save some money. You could order the fmic w/ pipes and turbo header from hrc, then get the sfmu and missing link to replace the crap hrc sends you. Get a walbro intank pump and an inline booster pump. goto carquest and get some fuel lines and have them make you an oil return line from the turbo. they should have all the fittings you need to tap into your oilpan also. carquest rocks. I dont know if thier is any write ups on building your own turbo system, mabye I will write one. The hrc kit would be great if they didnt give you the crappy cartech fpr and that bootleg *fuel defenser. Mabye you could get the hrc kit and get them to knock some cash off the bill if they dont send you that so you can get the good stuff. My cartech is now a $200+ paperweight.

Well, I really cant help you decied on what to do about voiding the warrentee, but I really recommend the stage 2, if you find a used stage 2, it can be cheaper then a stage 1, trust me its really worth it there are alot of good deals around just take careful look

I'm not sure what a Jasper engine is, but if you're worried about voiding your Mitsubishi Factory Warranty... Do it. Your Mitsubishi warranty won't do you a bit of good. Only way Mitsu will fix something for free is if it's been legally recalled because 17 people have died from the defect, and they can't figure out any way to weasel out of it. ;-)

Read the fine print there, jim.. ANY mod you do to alter the motor from totally stock voids Jasper's warranty. So, you have a CAI? Void. UDP? Void. LOWERING SPRINGS? Void.

http://www.jasperengines.com/warranty.pdf

Top of the second page.


The limited warranty will be void and not apply to defects or failures caused by
(1) overrevving (2) accident, abuse or an operation for which it was not designed, or alteration, either drive train or suspension, from
the original manufacturer’s specifications (3) damaged or inefficient parts, components or accessories not included in the sale (see
Installation Guide attached to product) (4) dirty or improper installation (5) overheating and/or freeze cracks to blocks, heads or drive
cases (6) burned or melted pistons (7) lack of lubricants or fluids (8) extensive corrosion damage to stern drive (9) detonation or
preignition (10) burned thrust bearings caused by rear pressure.

And if I remember correctly Dino and I posted trying to convince you to buy a rebuild kit instead of the Jasper block due to the fact it's stock replacement parts and any mods will void the warranty.



________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

GO TURBO!!!! :thumbsup

i void my warrantyyy the 1st day.. well electrical that is, within hmmmm months i lost all warantyyyy hehe..
turbo? hehe YES ..boost is good dude .. look at me at 12psi :D
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Fast420a....i know you guys did. But the problem with Howell was that he wouldent even guarantee the engine would work. I dont wanna start the howell war again....but Gary told me that after I signed the delivery slip...the engine is MINE. No if...ands...or buts. I could put the engine in and it dont start. Oh well...its MINE. That is why i didnt go with Howell. Also after reading Matt's problems with his shortblock...im glad i didnt.

Im sure if I knew more about engines and had more time....i could have found a good deal. But my dad was on my case from day 1 about getting the Jasper.


Dino...im actually kinda glad you brought up that warranty thing. So if i go turbo (i wouldnt tell my dad) and then something happens to the engine i could tell him that my warranty was already void because of my CAI so it doesnt matter anyway.


Wait...after reading that....they say, "The limited warranty will be void and not apply to defects or failures caused by:"

So lets assume something goes wrong with the engine that has nothing to do with my cai or lowering springs....they cant deny the claim because cause my cai/lowering springs are not what CAUSED the problem.

Am i right or no?

If you have a problem, the company will probably try to blame it on you however they can. I ran into that problem trying to get my first blown engine covered by satan. I ended up having to show them oil change receipts for the last 3 oil changes and bitch at them for 6 weeks and they FINALLY got me a new engine.



________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

shit...i change my own oil too. cant prove that.

>So lets assume something goes wrong with the engine that has
>nothing to do with my cai or lowering springs....they cant
>deny the claim because cause my cai/lowering springs are not
>what CAUSED the problem.

NOPE they can and WILL deny the claim if you have so much as clear sidemarkers.

In my case, Mitsubishi denied me a warranty claim on my defective transmission because I had a CAI. They said the "extra power and dirty air" coming from the intake blew the transmission after 20k miles.

Or how bout the time I was denied warranty on my hatch lid that wouldn't open right from the day it was manufactured? Wanted $300+ out of my pocket to fix it because I had a modified car.

Ever since I modded the living fux out of my car and voided and defiled the warranty in every way, my car's been running much nicer and more reliably than it ever did from the factory. I've found a crowbar to be far more useful than a factory warranty.


>So lets assume something goes wrong with the engine that has
>nothing to do with my cai or lowering springs....they cant
>deny the claim because cause my cai/lowering springs are not
>what CAUSED the problem.