well i'm looking into putting some "naws" in the RS in the future and i got a 95 fuel rail with injectors so should i use the 95 fuel rail and hook up a return line or run the 97 with a wet shot? is there a pwoer difference or advantages to using a dry system over a wet? anything else i need to convert if dry's better?

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com

1990 GSX (like Jen and Cody's 1st gen it's sitting in peices :))

1997 RS (with the kit that's kitted out)

http://www.homestead.com/klipzracer/index.html

I would stick with the wet system to prevent any problems with not enough fuel.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I would stick with wet because your car is alreasy equiped. Dry kits dont lack anything in fuel supply/distribution, they actually do it better within the limits of the fuel system. Power is limited to your stock injector capabilities on a dry so you can run a bigger shot with a wet kit (at which point you'd need an upgraded fuel pump). I would probably still hook up a return line and put in a SX or other adj fuel prssure regulator in line between the test port and the return line (keep your rail and dont worry about a stock rail mounted regulator. a $130 in line adj reg will do the same thing only will be adjustable which is good for wet nitrous).

An even better idea. since you have a rail already off. drill, tap and fit an adjustable regulator onto the rail where the stock 95' regulator is. Then run the return line straight off the rail mounted adj regulator outlet and keep your test port for testing of a fuel pressure gauge. (Does the same sh*t but sure looks cool).

I thought you were selling the RS anyway. Sh*t aint as easy as it might seem huh no matter how bad you need to get rid of it (I know my sh*t needs to go. I got so many things to repair/replace it will take another 3 or 4 months just taking care of one problem area a week. Ex: rear rt hub bearing going, rear suspension bushings worn out, rt fr brake caliper frozen, cltuch slipping (but coming next week), clutch slave cylinder slow leaking, cam timing off/cams need to be realigned correctly. I could go on. Thats what I get for keeping a car 160K miles and driving it hard. Now I have to buy a car just to drive while mine is in the shop week to week until its all fixed. If I were smart I'd fix the one or two things that someone would notice and sell this sh*t but nooooooo I cant let her go just yet.



http://stan2gnt.homestead.com/home.html
Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

hehehe. i'm in the same boat, stan!

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com

1990 GSX (like Jen and Cody's 1st gen it's sitting in peices :))

1997 RS (with the kit that's kitted out)

http://www.homestead.com/klipzracer/index.html

Poor guys. Pffft.



I had it explained to me this way, as to why a certain firend of mine would never get rid of his highly modded Talon, even after he gets his Lexus:

You'll end up doing the same stupid shit to it all over again if you sell your toy and buy something new. All the same things, and end up with the same problems, the same stupid things that drove you mad in the first place. The guy put into words what i'd felt all along but never truely realized.

Don't sell it. keep it. Mod it. buy something stylish and dependable to drive to work, mod the everlivin heck out of your toy with no worries on transportation..

_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!
Somehow, the Proud Owner of not-your.biz

>
>You'll end up doing the same
>stupid shit to it all
>over again if you sell
>your toy and buy something
>new. All the same
>things, and end up with
>the same problems, the same
>stupid things that drove you
>mad in the first place.

Bahahaha thats perfect! When I was contemplating the 240sx I said to myself turbo kit more expensive, springs, shocks and wheels required (for me anyway), why am I gonna sell the AFC when it will fit that car, what else can I transfer. Then I thought about it. All I'm am trying to do is build a RWD version of what I already have. Fuck that, now I'm looking for a $1000-2000 85-87 AE86 RWD Corolla GTS with 16V 4AG. Throw some 15" Panasport rims and trd suspension and call it a day.




http://stan2gnt.homestead.com/home.html
Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user