I just realized that if I sell my 18 and my system (+ a little saving) that I could afford to rebuild the bottom end and buy a direct port nitrous kit for 200shot! Can't believe I didnt think of this sooner.

I just wanted to know how much nitrous the head will take before I melt the valves?

With that much nitrous would you guys recommend ignition upgrade with in car retard control? (that sounded bad didn't it?!)

Oh, and what compression ratio should I go with on the bottom end?

You need Stainless Steel valves to run that much nitrous and not melt them. You will have to have the timing retarded, a LOT of fuel, ARP head studs, and the compression depends on the amount of tuning you want to do, You can run a low compression engine and not tuning as closely but the off the bottle power will suck. You could run the high compression pistons but it would require a LOT more tuning to make sure you don't blow. Good luck. A 200 shot is something that hasn't been done yet as far as I know on our car so you would have to be testing everything as you went.

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You can run a single direct port 100-150 shot and use a progresive controler to smooth the shot out rather than just 1 big bang out of no where which will result in you spining your tires and possably looseing control. Id recommend an NX single shot direct port system (e-mail me for the part number or ill just reply with it later) and a FRED. How does running 12s in the 1/4 mile sound to you because thats about where you should be at.

A single stage progresive system will take down a dual stage non-progresive nitrous system anyday.

Get the Howell rebuild kit, stock compression will be fine or if you wish go higher it doesn't really matter you will just have to tune a little more.

All this for below the cost of a Stage 2 turbo kit!

You don't "need" those head bolts and shouldn't worry about melting anything as long as you use the progressive controler I mentioned above. If you don't then yes it would be a good idea to get them id also recomend a ceramic coated header and a nice size catback. To run that big of a shot and not use a progressive controler would just not make sence and cost you more in the long run.

There really isn't as much tuneing involved as 1 might think. As a matter of fact there is less tuneing than if you were turbo.

I can't stress this enough use a progresive controler.

I don't know about running a 100-150 from a single wet fogger. Try distributing all that fuel and nitrous EVENLY into every cylinder.

It's not going to happen using one (wet) fogger. Dry is ok.

I contected NOS yesterday about their Nozsle system, which is an adapter to the injectors and adds nitrous and fuel right next to the injector by the valve.

Less chance of having a backfire blow the rest of the manifold off.
(blow the welds of the intake!LOL:P

What kind of progressive controler should I get? I don't see how a progressive controler is going to keep my valves from melting. One way or another I'm putting 200hp worth of nitrous in each cylinder. If it comes on slowly or all at once it is still a lot of nitrous and it still creates the same amount of heat.

I'm not trying to say your info is false or flawed I'm just saying it's the same amount of heat being generated and I'm wondering if I should just go with SS Valves just to be on the safe side.

What about the head gasket? Will the stock gasket take the heat?

Anything else I have to worry about? overheating?

almost forgot-compression. I was wondering about going with 10.5 comp. ratio. I don't think I will go with 12.5 because of the risk of detination with not enough hp improvment when I'm not on the bottle.

How would I actually "tune" a nitrous set-up? I understand the progressive controller but How do I tune the fuel curve, timing, etc?

No im im talking about a single direct-port 100-200 shot, with a progressive controler such as FRED and this big of shot you should reach the 12 second range you would need to upgrade ignition (MSD or Crane) and retard the timeing.

I don't know why your so worryed about heat, this direct-port shot will actually cool things down.

As far as compression goes you can go as high as you want. You will just have to retard the timeing more. Id look into a fuel pump and some bigger injectors also.

Oh ya almost forgot about the pump! oops! I if the foggers give the motor the necessary nitrous/fuel, why would I need upgraded injectors?

>Oh ya almost forgot about the pump! oops! I if the foggers
>give the motor the necessary nitrous/fuel, why would I need
>upgraded injectors?

Im actually looking into it at them moment but it sounds like to me that your going with a NOS kit. Im going with NX, not sure how there direct-port systems are different but www.nosnitrous.com has a really good article about whats needed and I beleive they mentioned something about needing to upgrade the injectors. Take a look around it should be in the import fogger system area. I was told by the guys at neons.org that I would need some bigger injectors to supply enough fuel when spraying a larger size shot like this. When I know for sure if we need injectors or not ill let you know, or if you find out before I do let me know.

Here it is

http://nosnitrous.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/NOS/importfoggers.html

It doesn't say anything about injectors so I don't think we will need them look at the bottem rite in the blue box it outlines the basics of what is needed and gives you a good idea of what size fuel pump you will need.

what kind of differances between the two companies made you want to go NX?

They have a more modern nitrous system, IMO.. and there componets are very easyly upgradeable and there kits even look better. They have the lightest and only real composite bottle on the market which look good, are lighter, and hold 12 lbs. NOS is good to but I just prefer NX.

When it comes down to it, both will get you across the line so its just a matter of preferance.