In my haste to get all my parts together, it totally skipped my mind to ask HRC to adjust my setup for the lower psi. long story short as you might have guessed I'm stuck at 8 psi. now I was planning on only running 7 psi, is there a quick and dirty way to kick it down one psi without spending money (a lot of it). I know someone will suggest some sort of boost controller, but to be perfectly honest, i blew my entire budget already! between the stage 2 and the $1000.00+ in extra parts and tools I have no more immediate large spending money.

please help!

matt

oh yeah... but would it be SO bad to run 8 psi.. how could I ensure stability?

Perhaps you could rig up a spring to apply more pressure to the WG arm. I believe the actuator is just a pressure chamber backed against a spring. So, when pressure is applied to the chamber, it pushes against the spring and opens the WG. So, if you add a spring to help the pressure chamber push the WG open...that would make the WG open more for every psi of boost. But, I've never done it...so I don't really know.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I doubt a 1psi difference is a cause for concern. Just run the 8psi and enjoy it! And actually, I believe the wastegate for the HRC Stage 2 S16g is set to 9psi. :)

i'm reading from the instruction manual right now and it says its set to 8psi and stuck there.

So you spent at least 3000 on a turbo kit and you do not have $50 to spend on a Joe P boost controller? I dunno about that. That is what I am using and I am running 15 psi daily. It is a solid MBC. I would bite the bullet and get one.

The wastegate spring for a Stage II Hahn Racecraft is set to open the wastegate at 9 psi. However, the maximum boost pressure I see at WOT is 8 psi. This is probably do to the fact that it is nearly impossible to prevent all leaks in the system - i.e. can have small leaks between the silicone couplings on the intake pipes, at the BOV, vacuum lines, etc.


Personally, I would not run 8 psi using the Cartech fuel pressure regulator or the FCD supplied by Hahn. I would upgrade each of these to the Vortech SFMU and the Missing Link to make a much more solid fuel system. Another important item to have is an A/F guage and a EGT gauge. I for one like to have as much information available to me at all times when tuning. I don't see how you can just guess how your engine is responding from sound or seeing the fuel pressures under boost. It may give you an idea but it is not exact. For example, I installed the turbo system in the fall and tuned it accordingly - fuel pressures where close to what the manual suggested, EGTs where normal, and the A/F was in the rich. Then winter came. Cooler air causes your car to run lean (make more horsepower) and I noticed a change in the A/F reading under boost. How would you notice this from the boost guage that was supplied by Hahn? As a result, I increased my idle fuel pressure to 55 psi.


Another important note is careful tuning. Don't be in a rush when installing the system and make sure you take the time to setup your fuel pressures according to what the manual (use this as a base) and what your gauges tell you to do. Spend the time now making adjustments and enjoy a trouble free and reliable car later. I have been boosting my car at 8 psi for about 5 months now (driven daily to work every day) and have not had any major problems - just had to make small fuel pressure changes to keep up with the seasons.


Just my two cents,
Kurt

Here's a how-to on lowering the wastegate cracking pressure - http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Under the turbo thier is a long bolt that goes to the wastegate actuator. Crack the lock nut and unclip the attachment, adjust the attachment thinger and then tighten the lock nut to keep it in place. Im not sure which way you need to go, but i think you need to loosen it to keep the wastegate open more. If you call hahn tech support they will explain how to do it. I have a stage 2 with fmic and it came set to 6psi. I dont have any major leaks and the boost is always solid at 6. Got my custom exaust today to i will be turning it up to 8 as soon as a get back from arizona next week. It sucks because its hard to get under the turbo to adjust it. good luck! call the tech! thats what you paid all that money for!!! :thumbsup

A boost controller won't help. You can't lower the boost with a boost controller past what the wastegate is set for. You can only raise it, because it basically does't let the wastegate see the boost untl what you set the boost controller for. When it hits that PSI, then the wastegate sees it, and opens. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

Yes, the stage 2 is set for 9 psi, BUT you get around a 1 psi pressure drop from the intercooler, thats why you should see about 8 psi. Like others said, just run the 8 psi, it should be fine. I know i did adjust my actuator arm, but that was to add more boost, so go the other way, it may lower it. I think i moved it outward, so move yours inward. You can do this by loosening the actuator arm nut, then take off the actuator arm from the turbo wastegate actuator on the exust side. Turn in the rod, then hook it back up. To lower one psi, it may not take that much turns.

I guess I'll just deal with the 8psi and have some fun. What's the worst that could happen?... Force myself into an engine rebuild and push more boost right? heh. I just hope it doesn't screw me over the first month I install the F'er. thanks for your replys

BTW: when i said i didnt have the money for the BC I was thinking of the 500 dollar a'pexi unit.

just make sure you install your fuel CORRECT and its tune right. you should be cool. and watch your boost gauge, a/f and egt.
have fun man.
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

On the s16g from hahn, unhook the actuator clevis from the wastegate lever, loosen the locknut and turn the clevis so that the rod gets longer, this will lower the boost by taking a little preload off the actuator spring. Don't go to far, one or two turns should do it. I had to do this when i put a 3 inch exhaust and cat on my car. It worked for me. just an idea.:)